Newguy

I have an STI Recoilmaster for a bushing barrel that I want to install in a gun using a reverse guide rod plug. I called STI today and spoke with someone in sales (Ugh!!! What an arrogant jerk!). Anyway, he emphatically stated that I couldn't just install a reverse plug, but I also had to have a new spring (presumably he meant the recoil or the secondary spring). Now, I'm just doing a reality check--shouldn't I be able to use the original RM recoil spring with a reverse plug? I assume that the secondary spring is the same for a bull or a bushing RM--only the guide rod plug is different. Am I correct? For those that have the reverse gr plug, is it flanged? Then he said that I couldn't just buy a guide rod plug but had to plunk down $85 for a whole new RM. If that's true, has anyone modified a reverse plug to fit an RM? My Briley reverse plug is just a little too narrow for the RM and I'm thinking of enlarging it. Should it work?

I'm on my second Comonoli tungsten gr. On the first, the head became deformed (measured with calipers) and wouldn't take the Comonoli rear shok-buff. I exchanged it for a new one, and the Comonoli rear buff still won't fit--the head must also be somehow deformed or out of spec. I think that the problem is that the steel on the Comonoli head is thinner than a normal gr. BTW, when I use a regular shok-buff on the rear, even after being trimmed it still binds. Back to an EGW tungsten guide rod, which works fine.

I bought 4k .40 brass containing a lot of AMERC brass. Since I had problems with it in .45 ACP I was cautious. Anyway, I decided to experiment to see if was different in the .40. Well, I reloaded some rounds (and then more) w/ MG bullets and surprisingly they all drop into the case gauge. (I'm not using a Lee resizer). Maybe they got their act together?

"Kimbers and Springfields are proven entities?" Tell that to the Kimber series II owners who can't get their guns to work right. Springfield also has its share of problems. So do Baers, Wilson and STI's. They just recalled the new S&W 1911s. Most 1911s are a crapshoot, it's just that CD may be a bigger one than most.

Who sells Armscor bullets? I'm always on the lookout for cheap bullets.

My 0.2 cents is that the 550B is a better starter loader than the SDB or the 650 because it's manual. Easier to go backward and check whether there's powder is in the case or if you double-charged. It's also easier to go more slowly until you get the feel. You can always move up to the 650 and get a chunk of your money back. BTW, I've got a SDB and a 550B--no comparison in terms of quality.

The owner of Montana told a friend/dealer that the JHP was the most accurate bullet he made.

I'm not sure of the design of the WC or Rainier bullets, but I've had BIG problems getting Berry's to feed--may be a similar design. I had to load them very short. I've never had good luck with plated bullets in terms of loading or accuracy. Precision is good bullet but you'd better be organized. Last I heard, Dave is backed up 6-8 weeks. BTW, I don't think they're moly coated--some sort of polymer IIRC. When you add shipping to Precision's prices they're not all that much cheaper than plated or even jacketed bullets. BTW, I've been using 200 LSWC out of a Les Baer and have had zero feeding problems. They're the most reliable bullets I've found.

I also found W231 very inconsistent in a .45--I was getting 60-90 fps differences w/i the same batch of reloads. Went to T.G. and suddenly the difference was only 20 fps. I use T.G. for both .45 and .40. Maybe there are better powders out there, but I'm just too lazy to experiment.

I've reached the point where I want/need to use open sights because of my eyes. My options are traditionally the .38 super or now the 9mm. I don't want the 9mm since I'm not into fiddling with hot loads and dancing on the edge of high pressure. I don't want the .38 super because of the expensive brass, new dies, etc. What I'm thinking about is the .40 (which I have lots of brass and bullets for). I don't want to go the more expensive route and use hard to find light bullets--I'd like to stay with 180 gr. Capacity doesn't concern me since I'm not good enough to sweat the loss of a few rounds in my hi cap mags. My understanding is that the biggest problem with the .40 is getting enough pressure for the comp to work. Are there alternatives to the traditional comp such as the Schuemann Hybricomp? Is there a way around the pressure/comp problem? Finally, how much of a disadvantage would I encounter if I didn't use a comp on the gun and used only ports or maybe just a straight barrel.

There is another alternative--Pinnacle ss mag well. http://www.pinnacle-guns.com/current_speci...ials/index.html I've got one on a 1911 and it's BIG--much bigger than the S&A. It's also $50. I just couldn't see forking out $140 for a SVI mag well. You can use any ms housing which is then drilled and tapped. Once the screw is set with loctite it won't move. If you send your ms housing to Pinnacle they'll even drill and tap it for $10 IIRC. I've used this magwell in lots of matches and have never had a problem with it. In short, its a great product and about the biggest mag well you'll find for a 1911.

I'm also a left-handed shooter who finds that with each successive target my shots land further to the right. Given the gun's natural torque to the right, I realized that resting my thumb on the right side safety is probably aiding that torque--I end up steering the gun to the right by using the thumb safety to help steady the recoil. Right-hand shooters who rest their thumbs on the left safety probably counter some of the right torque and it may end up more neutral. BTW, this may not be a big problem for left-handed shooters with strong grips and excellent mastery of recoil. The answer may be for left-hand shooters to keep their thumbs off the safety in search of the neutral hold. I'm going to work on that when the weather gets better. The only problem is that my wide paddle safety makes it difficult to keep the thumb away from it. If my theory works, it's grinding wheel time.

That spongy thing on the backstrap should make the Glock even thicker and blockier. I can't understand how the clip (their word) de-resonator would work. Now, if this Navcom stuff really reduces vibration and noise, why not make 1911 grips out of it?

I understand the changeable breech face and so on, but the angle on the feed ramp should be different between the .45 and the .40, which would affect feeding.

I used to shoot a lot of rounds (300-350) in practice, partly because it took me so long to drive to the range. It seemed stupid to drive 2 hours roundtrip only to shoot 100 rounds. Now that I can shoot closer, my practice sessions are a few times a week using only 100 rounds each session. Between each string I pick up the brass and take time to think about how the last string went--how was my grip and stance? Did I blink? Where were my hits? etc. It's easy to lob a lot of rounds downrange but I'm not sure how much good it does if it isn't focused practice where each action is dissected.

I bought a second grip safety (no pad since it narrows the grip) and ground down the activating arm. The original one is available in case I decide to sell the gun.

I'm not trying to start a flame war or to bash anyone's product. But, after installing a new Sprinco in my 5" gun I couldn't feel any difference in recoil reduction. I thought that since the Sprinco was advertised as reducing muzzle rise and softening recoil I'd see faster shooting via faster splits. I tested the same double stack STI frame and slide gun (long dustcover and non-bull barrel w/ a Briley linkless sytem) using a Sprinco w/ a 12 lb recoil spring. I then tested the same gun with the Comonoli tungsten and 2 .125 shok buffs. (Spring weights were verified and checked for binding.) This was two 10 shot strings at 15 yds (I know, I should have done more). The bottom line is that my split times were almost identical (actually a little bit faster with the tungsten but not significant). Am I missing something? If the Sprinco tames muzzle rise shouldn't the splits be faster since the sights come back quicker? I know there are other variables such as vision and trigger speed. Or, am I using the wrong setup to maximize the Sprinco (maybe a short recoil spring or one that's lighter than 12.5 lbs)? Has anyone else measured their performance (at least in splits) using a Sprinco or RM compared to a tungsten? I'd like to know what, if any, hard evidence exists to support the claims that recoil reducers increase shooter performance. Anecdotal evidence (it just feels softer) doesn't count timers have taught me to question my perception about what is fast. BTW, I'm not picking on Sprinco. It's just the only double spring recoil reduction system that works in my gun.

A gun that doesn't get a lot of press is the Briley. Claudio Salassas uses STI slides and frames, then modifies them (in the Signature series). The only thing these guns need is an extended magwell. Even the trigger pull is in the low 2 lb range. SIGNATURE SERIES $2250.00 Complete 1911 government length pistol built on a modular heavy frame with heavy slide. Includes Briley dovetail front sight / adjustable rear sight low mounted / Briley spherical bushing / Briley match barrel / lowered and flared ejection port / front and rear cocking serrations / tungsten guide rod / Briley extended ejector / match grade trigger - hammer - sear / wide ambidextrous thumb safety / beavertail grip safety / flatten and line top of slide / unique slide and frame cuts to reduce weight and enhance cosmetic appeal / all parts fitted and tuned / one magazine / hot blue finish. VERSATILITY PLUS $1850.00 Complete 1911 government length pistol built on a modular or Caspian frame. Includes Briley dovetail front sight / adjustable rear sight low mounted / Briley spherical bushing / Briley match barrel / lowered and flared ejection port / front and rear cocking serrations / Briley guide rod / Briley extended ejector / match grade trigger - hammer - sear / wide ambidextrous thumb safety / beavertail grip safety / all parts fitted and tuned / one magazine / hot blue finish.

From a newbie: # 1: Dump magical thinking. At least in the lower classifications, equipment won't make that much of a difference. I spent $100s maybe $1,000s trying to find the magic equipment that would make me a MUCH better shooter. Doesn't exist. Stay with what you have until you master it and then move up. At least in terms of iron sight guns, equipment hopping doesn't pay off. #2: Consistency is important. The gun should feel the same every time you shoot. Don't keep changing ammo or loads. At my level (C class) I don't perceive much difference between ammo that shoots at the same PF, at least after the first few mags. # 3: Reliability is crucial. You can't be totally "present" on the line if you're worried about whether your gun will finish the stage. #4: (Maybe the most important for me). Take in info from lots of different sources (read a lot and listen to seasoned shooters), sort through it and then find the grip and techniques that work best for YOUR particular body. If nothing else, IPSC has taught me a lot about my body and its peculiarities.

You can also narrow the grip by grinding down the slight speed bump on the grip safety (if you don't care about a functioning gs) so that it's flush with the ms housing. Filing the gs to match the contour of the frame also helps. Getting rid of those little bits of material has made a huge difference in the feel of my gun.

There's not much that can be done to reduce the grip size (without altering the frame) other than cutting under the trigger guard, rounding off the corners on the front strap and scooping some plastic off the top diamond of the shooting hand. The plastic on the grips is so thin that it's dangerous to grind too much off. My hunch is that they paid more attention to one of the above details in the first gun.

Some posters use small rifle primers when loading the .40 S&W. I've always used small pistol primers and am wondering about the possible advantages of using rifle primers.

Benny, half of the fun (and cost) is experimenting. We're looking for the holy grail--flat (no muzzle rise) and soft shooting (recoil somewhere between a BB gun and a .22), fast and light, incredibly accurate, and 110% reliable. The gun also has to compensate for flinching, blinking, trigger freeze, less than perfect grip and stance, etc. I know this gun doesn't exist, but hell we can keep on searching anyway. BTW, aren't you the same Benny Hill that developed the 6" fat-free gun? I see your guns or knock-offs of your ideas in a lot of matches. Seems like you've started a little trend. Pretty innovative stuff for a guy that's arguing for a meat and potatoes approach to recoil management.

The gun is a Briley linkless barrel in .40 and up until today it worked fine. Suddenly, the slide started jumping the slide stop leaving the gun is cocked without a round in the chamber. I've tried 6 different slide stops and 2 different mags. Same problem. If I manually cycle the gun it catches fine and the slide is locked back--only a problem with live fire. I'm thinking it might be a bad mag catch (not lifting the mag up high enough), but I'm not sure. Any suggestions?

15k or more with the spherical bushing and no problems. The Baer remains VERY accurate and reliable. If there are problems with them, I haven't experienced any. I'm a do-it-yourself kind of person and so I like the idea of just replacing the spherical ring if there's a problem. BTW, I noticed a significant increase in accuracy after I installed the bushing.