kildar

Copterdrvr, as this is my first PCC no I haven’t tried lighter springs yet. It seems counterintuitive though that a lighter spring would reduce the recoil impulse. I don’t think the Tubbs AR10 spring is harder. Having installed it recently I found the charging effort nearly equal to the orange Springco. It did feel like a smoother action. I’ll see at my next range visit how it affects the recoil impulse during shooting. I’ll check out the blowback 9’s site too.

Have had great success with the orange Springco/Kynshot 5020ss combo in my PCC. Going to try David Tubbs 308 flat wire spring in place of the orange Springco. Anyone else try this pairing? Technical description for Tubbs flat wire looks promising. Hopefully his spring will further help manage the recoil impulse.

My 30 does'nt do we'll with light loads. The lightest reload I've found that still is reliable is 200gr Bear Creek over 4gr of Clays.

My competition guns are hardchromed and my SD guns have NP3 coatings. All look and perform like new.

Yup, he's still out there. Life gets in the way sometimes. Great, great product that's worth the wait.

I run Sevigny Competition sight set on all my glocks. I tried the FO front sights but as stated on earlier post just way too busy. The serrated thin front sight works for me.

I've tried both the LW Ultimate Trigger Stop and the Ghost Rocket connector. Initially both worked great and I was very pleased but after many rounds and matches with both products the reliability became a problem. The LW trigger stop would back in/out of adjustment and no amount of Loctite would keep it in place. The Ghost Rocket connector also as mentioned in an earlier post changes how the trigger parts interact and when I started having problems it was a mess trying to figure out what to change or adjust. I may be in the minority in the opinion of both of these products but I need consistency and confidence with my match guns and having to ride that fine line of adjustment is just too much work for me. If you're interested in what I have now in my Glocks it's proven trigger kits by Vanek and Glockworx.

Try "Judy Butter". It's a mountain bike shock lube. Get's rid of the sprooooing sound. Easy to apply and doesn't run when things warm up like grease.

Shooters Connection Tournament Series bag. Built to last with pockets for everything. The only thing I might wish for on it would be wheels when I overload it.

I stand all day at work, so I enjoy my reloading hobby sitting.

Thanks for sharing the research. I know how long and tedious this kind of testing can be.

Order TruGrip. Worth the wait.

Another vote for just keeping the 35 and get into reloading.

http://www.arredondoaccessories.com/index.cfm Try here for the answer to your problem. You won't be disappointed.

As said, short of a full stippling job Tru Grip is the best Glock grip cover. I tried buying skateboard tape and cutting it to fit my 17. It came out ok but it took a lot time in the trial and error fitting. Tru Grip fits perfectly the first time. A real time saver. The grit on the Tru Grip is also not as agressive and as it wears it smooths out without loosing the grip.

I asked the same question several months ago. Do a search. My first thought was to orient them as mentioned earlier the same as my pistol mags. There is strong opinions either way. I eventually after much practice decided on bullets forward. I too by the way purchased a Blade Tech AR mag holder. It's a great mag pouch.

Great mag loader. Loading my Glock hicaps get really tough after 17 or 18 rounds. With the Uplula loading them now is almost fun.

I've never liked Brownells' search engine. The results are many times incomplete. At times like that I'll just grab the "big book".

Well, I tried it on my Gold Cups' sear and it seems to make for a nice crisp break. I'll shoot it at my next match and see how it holds up. I'm much more skeptical though now after reading about the testing done by BE.

I love Slide Glide and use it on all my firearms wherever metal meets metal. I've never used it on sears though. What is the opinion on using Slide Glide Light on sears?

I've had my +5 extensions for my .40 mags for a couple of years also. No problems whatsoever. They have been used hard in competition and have been reliable. I's a very good and sturdy design that I would not hesitate to carry in the "real world" if I had to.

200 gr SWC because they make nice round easily seen holes over 4.2 gr of Clays. Makes Major yet is easy to control.

If you reload, duds for what ever reason comes with the territory. I use an "impact" or kinetic bullet puller on pistol bullets without any issues to disassemble duds. It of course allows me to reuse the bullets and capture the powder for reuse as well. Why waste the components when they can be easily recycled especially with component shortages these days.

I've been experiencing failures with Wolf primers also. My first several hundred rounds of my reloads the failure to fire rate was about one or two per hundred. After doing searches online regarding these failures I suspected I might not be seating the primers deep enough. My subsequent reloading sessions with Wolf primers included several extra pushes on the reloading press handle to firmly seat each primer. Since following this extra step my failure to fire rate with Wolf primers has actually increased to five or six per hundred. My question for this discussion is could I be seating Wolf primers too deep causing these failures? I've become very disappointed with Wolf primers after blowing several stages at local club matches because of these failures. Failing to find a satisfactory solution using Wolf primers I'll be limiting their use to my practice ammo in the future.

Thanks for chiming in guys. Misery loves company.