MemphisMechanic

I really like shooting BBIs - the owner is a shooter who lives 90 minutes away and hits my local matches. Being able to pick them up w/o Shipping when he is in town is very convenient. Their 135 RN over Clays or Titegroup or WST is a really nice all-around load. I just picked up 6,000 150gr semi-wadcutters from Bayou though. I pretty much just want to play with them - and 150s shot through a heavy Stock3 are probably going to have all the recoil of a staple gun...

Short thumbs, fat grip, you say? Take note of what one of the fastest guys in the sport does in order to dump the spent magazine from the gun. There are lots of good technique vids on YouTube for mag changes, but Max makes a point of showing how he "flips" the gun:

That's why I slugged mine. To see if leading or poor accuracy from a .356 bullet would be an issue at all, should I decide to shoot it.

Just in case anyone is curious... standard .356 diameter lead bullets will probably play nicely with this bore diameter. .355 is the widest measurement I could take on a .358 bullet after it was driven through the barrel with a squib rod.

What do you like more about the Henning contour?

Use a mag with a plastic basepad for your first mag. That's obviously so that you know which one has 11 in it. That's also typically the one that you put in it on the scale... No one reloads to an 11rd mag in IDPA, the other two mags are the ones you need to reload to on the clock. IDPA 101.

That mindset lasts about a year of regular USPSA use. Then the gun gets cleaned every few thousand rounds, a few times a year, whether it needs it or not...

Wow. That's bad, as far as thin surface rust goes! Something to consider: how acidic is your sweat? I have friends who are toxic to the bluing on a gun that most others can handle, and leave their oils on without issues. Honestly I'd just strip that CZ down and cerakote the gun. I know not everyone has a blasting cabinet / airbrush to apply that kind of thing themselves, and I know there are harder options like DLC or Zion Bond. But cerakote is damn tough and can be done at home.

When I bought mine I thought "that's a fairly large, blended magwell. This should be easier than my M&P." In dryfire and non-match time spent at the range, it hasn't been any worse than the 9L was. But I keep reading comments like yours, and bracing myself for that first match...

If 100% of your ammo drops in and spins freely, reaming your barrel won't change anything. How much longer can you load your ammo before it stops spinning when dropped in? If it's only .005" or so, it's possible that the odd rounds that aren't going off happen to be the longest ones coming off of your press. If you have an extra .010" or more, then that isn't likely an issue.

Yes it's a production gun. The rulebook uses the word profile, which DNROI ruled to be "the same shape as viewed from the side." That means that you can add palm-swell grips or a thumb groove or fat grips or thin grips... but you cannot install something like one of those Hogue grips that adds a wraparound piece of rubber on the front strap with large finger grooves.

Everyone on here that's been doing this for years? We've made the same mistakes or asked the same dumb questions. It's also common sense. At some point, if you don't throw your football in a tight enough spiral, it's going to start to tumble.

I edited my reply - it makes sense now, and I added a bit more info.

You need to know the velocity your rounds are moving at, so I wouldn't worry about it until your chronograph arrives. I believe you'll be below 125 power factor with a charge that low and barrel that short. The very first thing you need to try is a PF in the mid 130s. You may not be getting enough velocity to spin the bullet fast enough for it to stabilize. Then play with over all length once you have your velocity in the desired ballpark. Normally I'd have someone check for excessive crimp first, but that was addressed earlier.

It's been done! I've seen some pretty sexy 2011 grips here on BEnos, which is where I got the idea. Search the forums for 'silicon carbide'

Somewhere, someone mentioned that they empty the bin on the press every time they refill primers for exactly this reason. When you catch an issue, you never have more than 100 potentially defective rounds. I went back to using the small Dillon bin on my 650 and I've been doing that ever since!

Everyone in here is telling you to load ammo that varies between 1.130 and 1.142 (for example) and just go shoot. And shoot. And shoot. You'll probably find it to be accurate and consistent ammo just like that - mixed brass dumped into the casefeeder and fed to your press with reckless abandon. I can load you some mixed-brass ammo that has a standard deviation of less than 6 across a chrono, and which will group 2 inches at 25yd and feed 100% reliably. It will have an OAL variation of 1.125-1.138 if you take calipers to it.

This sounds exactly like the thing you have already diagnosed. You 'call' your shot based on where your sights were located at the beginning or middle of the trigger's travel. But you don't notice something; that you aren't pulling the trigger straight to the rear when shooting fast. The sights are being yanked offcenter before the gun discharges and you aren't seeing that. Yet another reason to post that Jerry Miculek video where he says "trigger control is more important than sight alignment."

Another vote for "normal, just go shoot them" here.

So far I'm happy with the Stock gun's factory safeties, but I'll keep that in mind if I feel differently once it has a few matches under its belt.

And factory Lim Pro safeties are, of course, Production legal. Right? I bet the safeties are an expensive part. Hmm.

If you're looking for Production reload porn, Alex Gutt (winner of this year's Production Nats) is the benchmark in my opinion. Tanfoglio reload porn, right there. Very active on YouTube too.

Most new reloaders chase the softest possible load, it's another thing to tinker with in pursuit of shooting better... due to widgets. Trigger toys first. Then three sets of sights. Some springs here and there. Then you start reloading and have a new way to game your match performance. Stop that. Find a bullet you like, and can afford to shoot a lot of, and that your gun groups well. Work up a consistent load, and go practice with it a lot. And leave the press alone except to pump the handle.

Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital Chronograph https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028MTBJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rEQgyb9CEAM1W

Wow. I don't mean this to sound cold, but now I know how new you are. I remember being that guy. 125.00 is barely skirting the legal limit. While actual load development and testing are required to find what groups best through your gun, a load around 130 to 135 seems to be more accurate, it cycles the gun more reliably, and steel is a bit more likely to drop from a slightly low hit. I keep all my ammo above 132, personally. You certainly aren't giving up anything in how quickly you can shoot. Chrono: Go get a ProChrono. Most consistent and affordable unit out there - I got a cheaper Shooting Chrony first and gave it away. ProChrono all I use. With a bright incandescent light it will even work 100% indoors.