MemphisMechanic

Push harder. It's a tight fit when it's new.

They really do shoot beautifully. I love my Stock III. Glad you like yours just as much! Once I'm used to the trigger and operation is once again totally subconscious, I believe the only thing I'll miss about my plastic framed striker guns is the ease with with you can change mags.

If it feels sluggish to you, you'll want to increase the spring rate. It's likely going to take a 9 or 10 pound spring to make a big change... Assuming that the gun was fitted with a 6 or 8 lb spring.

Shorter... as in the safety won't tuck underneath that leg of the sear - you can't flip the safety upward and engage it? That is the only place you file or sand or dremel the sear in order to fit the two parts, yes. It's a simple and rather forgiving operation. You can grind down the height of the bump on the shaft of the safety, instead. But the safety is a more expensive part that's harder to get.

Ahh yes. I assumed you meant the drop in 1-piece extreme sear. I didn't even know there was a "long" sear until now!

Good to know SNS are short chamber friendly!

I'm no help on this, but please do us a favor and choose more precise thread titles than "stock 2" for everything - so that others will be able to find your problem and solution someday with the search tool. Unless the mag catch from some other Witness is shorter and compatible (I think all the large frame guns should be) I'm not sure what you'll find. Is your weak hand grip causing dropped mags on accident?

I tried to run both a Mason and Cymler reamer through my barrel to lengthen the leade. Neither one will fit far enough into the chamber to begin working on the rifling. So in this instance, lesm, your nomenclature-Naziism isn't quite justified. Mine is on it's way to Bevin now.

I think they make a lot of sense for Production. A fantastic amount of sense in the DA/SA world. Where there's no real competition in the "designed as gamer guns" category for CZ and Tanfoglio. That said, if Limited is your game, I think you owe it to yourself to read CHA-LEE's crange diary in entirety and talk to him about the gut wrenching realization that a 2011 was a superior platform at the top levels for a GM in Limited. You might still wind up with an Italian blaster, but it should be a researched and informed decision.

Second match with new gun: Draws to open targets are 0.2 behind where they were with the M&P. Also 0.4 behind the .90 time I want them to be, longterm, in match conditions. I hold myself back because I'm adapting to the pronounced beavertail (have to come in behind it and not just straight downward) and the weak hand grip is just different enough to make me miss at full speed. Right now I have a deliberate pause at the holster to hit the safety and beavertail the way I like, until I dryfire enough to burn that in. Reloads are definitely harder than plastic guns. Dryfire dryfire dryfire. Metal on metal binds where metal on plastic could glide a little. The greatest challenge for me is going to be the SA trigger. I'm used to prepping a trigger then rolling through the sear. The first round out of the holster isn't too bad now. The transition to SA isn't much of an issue. But a SA first shot entering an array or after a wide transition? I find myself breaking the shot while prepping the trigger and still refining the sight picture. Just have to learn to shoot a SA gun. It'll come with practice. I also had two malfunctions in the match. One just required a cycling of the slide. The other took nearly eight seconds. I'd estimate I would have shot this match 5% faster if I was using my M&P. That would have put me at 1st Production in our local match, instead of at 98% of the winner (an M shooter who didn't have a stellar day.) The classifier puts me at 74.98%. As close to an A as it's possible to be, without going in. This gun just sings across steel arrays - I'll give it that. The lack of recoil and beautiful trigger make rows of plates/poppers far less work to engage quickly. Short video of classifier from the match:

135gr bullet at 135pf (1,000fps) I'll be curious to know how much adjustment might be needed for the 150gr semi-wadcutters I'll be using in about two weeks time. Pushing them with Prima-V should make for a very clean, very soft round. If they're accurate enough and they feed reliably!

I made dummy rounds to the specs that I desire (A rather fat 135gr bullet loaded all the way out at 1.155") and sent the barrel out with a note to get those rounds to plunk & spin freely. I'll let you know what the result was at the end of the week when my package is back.

Also... everything Johnbu listed. I love the idea of polishing compound on the rails and hand cycling. Obvious. Didn't occur to me. Stealing that.

I'm going back in to polish some items again. Spend the most time on the hammer strut, spring hole, and pins for BOLO and hammer. That's where reliable ignition from light springs happens. Polish every surface of the Bolo. Assemble things until you see where the BOLO will hit the trigger bar then pull it down and get those mating areas slick. You shouldn't have spent $80ish on the Xtreme sear housing. It's the same as your original one.

Titan. Not a Delta. That's the old dinosaur hotness. Titan is the new hotness. I sight my guns in to hit even with the top of the blade at 25yd. If you wanted to hit behind the fiber you have plenty of adjustment leftwith which to do so.

I went with a .140 tall front and like it. Any lower and you see the slide in the sight picture when the front post is a pinch above centered in the notch, and I wound up ten clicks or so down from the factory setting. Keeps the fragile rear sight nice and low. I went with an 8# recoil spring and had an annoying number of failures to chamber fully with ammo that had been chamber-checked (plunked and spun) in the barrel round-by-round. I'm on the stock spring minus 3 coils now until a 10# spring is ordered. (Reaming barrel might also magically help this, but both will have to happen at once.) Trigger wasn't that bad from factory and reset is damn short if you're coming from plastic. Might be Stock. Mine pulled 10.5 on a scale and felt like 8 to me. The previous owner might have dropped in trigger or sear or hammer springs and done some polishing. That goes a long way on its own. So does properly adjusting the overtravel screw in the trigger, at least on reset (I'm running my gun with it removed now and find it's plenty short enough.) Stock II grips fit. The only dimensional differences in a II and a III are found in the front half of the slide. (Slide, barrel, guide rod, and recoil spring.)

Grips: I'm in love with Henning's grips. Expensive and just a pinch thin, but absolutely beautiful and as grippy as the checkering on the frame. Mine got a full polishing job and $300 worth of springs and action parts from Patriot Defense. BOLO disconnector, Titan hammer, Xtreme 1-piece sear and extended firing pin block. Beautiful trigger now. Your gun is large frame. CDNN has factory mags in stock for $15 which work perfectly. I posted a thread about that recently. Search on my name in this forum.

The Xtreme sear is only surface hardened, per Eric Grauffel. I'm not familiar enough with the action of the gun to tell you what needs fitted, but something needs changed which isn't that angle. Hopefully Johnbu or one of the other Tanfo Whisperers will be along shortly to help explain possible causes. The BOLO, Titan and Xtreme sear dropped into my Stock III with absolutely no modifications other than fitting the sear leg to the safety, so I can't speak to the fitting you need to do. Can you give us a complete parts list of what's in the gun?

Field Strip the gun, drop a few into the chamber by hand, and see if they spin.

For most bullet profiles you want to shoot in matches (fat round noses or flat-points or square-shouldered SWCs in the 124-147gr range) you'll find you need to load them much shorter than you would for other firearms. If it's something that tapers quickly and the ogive or shoulder of the bullet is friendly, you might be able to load to a 'normal' length. Load up some dummies and plunk them in the barrel to see if they spin. If not, they're in the rifling and you need to shorten things up and try again.

Somewhere between 129 and 135 is what most USPSA and IDPA guys shoot. In my experience anyway. I like 133ish so if 3.3gr groups well, I'd call it good enough and use that. Accuracy testing is... whatever you're comfortable with. I use lower A-zone at 25yds every time. But might shoot multiple groups of 10 rounds to make sure a poor group wasn't my fault. If you're happy with a 10 yard group in the head of the target, then use that. Whatever gives you confidence in the load , or proves to you that tweaking it will be needed.

Have you considered having the barrel reamed to take ammo out to a longer length? Grams Engineering will do it for $29 round trip total cost.

Well great! You now have two recipes you know will make (an irrelevant pinch under) 130 PF or 135 PF. You also have the option of loading to 3.3 gr and reasonably expecting 132-133 PF as well. This is why loading a "ladder" to develop a new recipe is preferable. Freestyle vs bagged in? That depends how good you are at shooting freestyle groups. I'm no bullseye shooter and can't get smaller than about 4-5inches no matter what I do. So I shoot with the gun "bagged in" atop my range bag. I do a 6 o'clock hold like a bullseye shooter too, with a black stick-on bullseye target. The gun will shoot tighter groups that way IMO - and they'll obviously be low of center. 6 o'clock hold: http://www.odcmp.org/0907/usamu_sightpicture.asp I'm trying to find out what that ammo is capable of through my gun, and I won't know if one OAL or one charge weight shoots 2" groups and another shoots 5", if I shoot it freestyle. Human error will hide it. Also, don't be afraid to try multiple passes to shoot a tight 15-25yd group if you have never done it before.

Some club or another did this recently on Practiscore. I don't recall whom, but I stumbled across the scores while searching for ours. All they did was re-upload the match and double everyone's points down and add "1 sec rules" to the title. You could go back and forth and compare finishes in detail.

Have you seen the "original" star's method? Two pins are welded to the end of each arm, and each plate's tab has two holes that match. The spring / lever arm arrangement serves to apply pressure to that setup from the rear.