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About JohnnyRyder

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  1. @ Johnbu Thanks a lot. But should the pin in the interruptor move not as easy as the pin does in the hammer-strut? Because the diameter of the bore in the interruptor (OEM-part for 1-piece-sear from EGD) is slightly smaller, than the bore in the hammer-strut. I can put in the new pin into the hammer-strut just by hand with no effort at all, but into the interruptor i have to hit the pin in with the use of a hammer. I think (also the use of a new pin) the interruptor should move almost as free/easy on the hammer, as the hammer-strut does... am i right or wrong? Thanks for your help in advance!!!
  2. It needs some proper fitting (angle touching the hammer-hooks) and also the safety-leg touching the safety. The trigger-pull should be a bit smoother, the SA and the reset a bit better, than the regular sear, but you have to know exactely, what and how to do, to make it fit... and it seems to be hardened throughout... Eric Grauffel prefers it over the sear-regular.
  3. Can somebody tell me, whether the diameter of the hammer-strut-pin and the hammer-interruptor-pin is identical or not? I don´t want to take the gun apart to measure it.
  4. @MemphisMechanic Fitting the safety-leg of the sear has to be done... no question about that.
  5. @johnbu Posted by johnbu: "Can you provide pictures of the sear face that interacts with the hammer? I want to see if it's rounded. Also the hammer hooks. If it's a used gun, parts may be worn or improperly installed / tuned. Again, I agree filing the hammer hooks deeper is the better option. But if the sear face was already filed... it will wear quickly." I was told, that you never should stone/file just surface-hardened parts. I was also told, that the EGD-hammers (Titan- and Xtreme-delta-hammer) and also the OEM-parts sear-regular and the 2-piece-sear and the Xtreme-parts sear regular and the 2-piece-sear ar all just surface-hardened. If you file them, then your gun will work just fine for maybe 500-1000 shots and then some issues could happen. Only the OEM-part sear-long seems to be hardened throughout and has to be fitted/stoned in order to fit the hammer-hooks. Please correct me, if you are really sure, that i am wrong... means, if you already filed some hammer-hooks and after that you made 5000 or more shots and your gun still work fine, that should be the proof. ;D)
  6. Hello everybody, thanks a lot for your answers. I have some news for you. As you can see on the picture, it´s a brand new titan-hammer and also a brand new OEM-sear-lever-LONG. It´s clearly visible, that the angle of the sear can fit in no way to the hooks of the hammer, without some fitting. That is why i asked, if somebody knows, if the sear-LONG is hardened throughout, because that would make sense to me. I also asked Eric Grauffel and he told me today, that the sear-LONG(EG prefers it!) needs some proper adjustment, to make it fit to the Titan- or the Xtreme-Delta-hammer... so i gues, this means, that the sear-LONG is hardened throughout. So i stoned it to the angle that i think should be right for my old Delta-hammer and now it seems to work good enough (if i cycle the slide by hand each test works). Before i built in the new 1-piece-sear, there was the original 2-piece-sear for 16.000 round in action with some snappy factory loads with 9x19 Geco 124 grain FMJ (has 135 - 145-factor... a little bit too much for IPSC-production) and i never had even one single issue with this stock2 small-frame. It also has the Xtreme-firing-pin - medium springs for the firing-pin and the hammer, also did some polishing for the right parts... i really love this gun!!!
  7. Good evening all together. Is the Eric Grauffel OEM-part called sear-lever-long hardened throughout, or just surface hardened? If you check the picture below, it seems to be clear (i guess), that the angle of the sear (touching the hooks of the titan-hammer) is not sharp enough, so that the hammer always falls back into the half-cocked-positon, if i cycle the slide of my gun (Tanfoglio Stock2 - small-frame). Is it possible to work this sear, to file the necessary angle in order to make it work dependably? Thanks a lot in advance!!! Best regards Joe
  8. Hello everybody. Maybe somebody knows, which of the IMI-polymer-holsters fits the two guns best or needs the least preparation, to make it fit? Possibly the one for the Jericho 941 (steel Frame Version) or maybe for the cz 75 shadow sp-01 or for the cz 75 compact. Thanks a lot in advance!!! Best regards, Johnny
  9. @Nealio: Maybe i exaggerated in the point with the wear on the lugs of the barrel/slide... in fact the angles are nearly sharp 90°... after checking it one more time exactly. According to the opinion of Eric Grauffel, the angles and how all the other details look, it seems to be pretty normal and there is no unnormal wear. The slide is also quite stable, when in battery... and nothing wobbles out of proportion... just the barrel hits/touches the guide-rod, when fired or. cycled by hand. I think now, that Eric is right... there is nothing to do... it seems to be just a fact, that can´t be changed... so i´ll have to live with this blemish.
  10. Hello Nealio, that´s also a possibility, that i will check the next free hours... thanks really a lot. Funny is just the fact, that this issue started just about - let´s say - the last 400 - 500 rounds. Before that nothing happened for about 9500 rounds. Could be also the reason, that maybe my OEM-10 lbs recoil-spring got a little bit worn out/weak since the last 9000 shots with 124 grain FMJ from Geco (IPSC-approved ammo in europe for production)? But i will check it anyway.
  11. I have a stock2 and a stock3 with all the same xtreme tuning parts from E.G. So it´s easy for me to make a comparison between a lot of details and i can tell, that you should be happy, that your gun runs like you mentioned with all the light parts, as it does... so, i´d say... never touch a running system. Ok, i have to confess, that i just shoot factory ammo and it costs more effort, to make the guns run with the light stuff all the time... maybe, because i don´t use the titan-hammer. Just the OEM-hammer on the stock3 and the xtreme-delta-hammer on the stock2. I shoot the stock2 about 95% of the time, so i have to buy new springs in the stock2 all 5.000 shots or almost 1x every year. The springs in the stock3 will last - i guess - 5 - 6 years. I would just buy new springs, if you have light-strikes... especially in double-action. There is no big miracle about springs... i think.
  12. Hello BeerBaron, thank you very much for your advice... now i am sure, that you are absolutely right, as well. Simultaneous i also asked Eric Grauffel, and he told me exactely the same. He wanted to send me maybe some pics of the barrel of his tanfo(tanfos), if he gets round to take some pictures.
  13. Hi, my experience is, that after 4.000 - 5.000 rounds the xtreme(or almost every kind of) hammer spings tend to get even lighter(weaker), so i change them every time, when i start to get light strikes. Or try the medium one... they also become light enough aber 1.000 - 2.000 rounds. But in this case i recommend to use also the medium striker spring from Grauffel. But maybe, you have to check the length of your firing pin block - maybe it is a little big to long and scratches a little bit against your firing pin ans slows it down just a little bit. And if your spings get a little bit weaker, this won´t help... neither.
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