MemphisMechanic

I shaved it down to .359" which is where I'm going to stop for now. It was definitely rubbing the frame in my gun, too. I found a fairly repeatable way to measure DA travel, too. As long as you try hard to get the caliper in the exact same spot on the hammer each time: I used the hammer to squeeze the caliper closed until it fired. I took a five-pull average... .340" gap between frame and beaver tail before. .315" gap after. After this weekend I might remove another .003" from the BOLO. Maybe. The rearmost line is SA position of hammer face. The two closely spaced lines are the DA positions, before and after: Trigger pull feels unchanged. I'm currently running a PD 13 and the factory plunger spring with 2 coils clipped off. It'll be eating Winchester primers Saturday and has always run 100% on them with that spring.

Mine is .462 to start not .465... I guess I may not need to remove as much. Time to ruin a part three days before a match!

Hah! I opened this to get the dimensions for before and to remove... ...and my BOLO is clamped in a vise ready to be filed. This is too precise to dremel IMO

Noted! If I brick a BOLO tonight, I'm running the factory one in this weekend'a match I guess. Incentive to be careful.

Glad you're sticking with Glocks for the rest of the year. In a way, the lack of available Tanfo Limited Pro's was a good thing for you.

I would try to make it... most areas MIGHT offer such a class once per year.

Doing that. Excellent idea.

The Prez and a few others in the know post over there. Admirably frankly, actually. It's refreshing. Sometimes a topic is extremely informative. Obviously not all the threads are... worthy of pontificating at length.

Your thinking mirrors my own… Obviously it all comes down to how sensitive the compound is, and how thick the cup is, and the placement of the anvil.

No, just one... Let the tool do the work. It's like shaving with a straight razor - forcing it just causes cussing and bleeding.

I don't think you (confidently) can. I had bought into the prevailing online view. That the rock hard CCI primers couldn't be driven into the pocket as deeply as softer primers by the non-adjustable 650's priming system.

I plan to scrap the first Bolo, then Optimize(tm) the second one .003" or so less. Unless I get stupid lucky. Also, it makes sense that it'll lighten the DA pull: the inclined plane that the trigger bar is pushing the disconnector up, so to speak, is longer and less steeply pitched.

I'll be doing this shortly. My gun is really close to lighting CCI primers loaded on a Dillon 650 as it is... I'm curious to see if this will do the trick, and I won't need to run that EGD Medium spring anymore.

Hey, I used a dremel and went slowly and carefully. And it worked just fine.

That is a variable we hadn't considered...

My 650 seats both Federal and Winchester with a shim under the primer ram to .005-.008" below flush without abnormal operation - I'm making sure to drive the primer home but I'm not exactly hanging off the handle and bouncing. It will set either brand off 100% of the time with a 13lb PD spring. With CCI's many are barely below flush and the deepest it'll cram those little bricks into the brass is .005" or so. I need the 16.5lb EGD Medium spring to set these off consistently because they're so hard and they aren't buried all the way into the brass. (The PD 15.5lb spring might work too, but I haven't shot the gun with it enough to say for sure.)

Or $100ish for the ProChrono, which is where it's at. (My Chrony would read 50-70% of the time in conditions where the prochrono works flawlessly.)

What brand of primer are you using? With a 650 I find that the non-adjustable priming system simply won't seat a CCI any deeper than .002" to .003" below flush in many brands of mixed brass. Consequently, I run a lot of hammer spring and don't worry about the gun going click on anything below flush or with factory ammo.

If you're in the USA and not looking to compete in actual IPSC matches - you only shoot USPSA - then: Extreme hammer. The Titan one. EAA or Xtreme 1-piece sear Bolo disconnector Add all of the polishing work you see in my videos. ...and a bunch of lighter springs for sear, trigger, and hammer. Its a pretty tried-and-true method for producing a terrific Tanfo trigger.

They're polymer. You can sand them down a bit if needed.

Or sell a fully set up Lim Pro, to go back to CZ, then go back to Glock. ...and now you're popping back up in the Tanfo forum wanting one. That would really be an expensive series of events, right @B_RAD?

I'm glad that tip worked for you, as I find it to be immensely helpful for me.

Do any of your posts come with on-topic content?

Only if he can get paid in 9mm Limited Pros. Those things are worth their weight in gold. (Yes, this weak-sauce running joke is absolutely going to turn into a thing.)

If you make Master, you never do it again. Grandbagging works too.