MemphisMechanic

On person cameras are really only good for "did I actually forget to shoot that target?" And "what kind of jam did my gun have? Did I clear the jam the way I've tried to teach myself to?" ... kinds of things. For analyinzg your reloads and movement and footwork and the like, it's far cheaper and easier to have a buddy film you from behind with a phone.

If you're shooting IPSC you can't legally install the majority of the Patriot Defense items. However, reaming the chamber and installing an EGD Light hammer spring will go a long way in improving the trigger and reliability of the gun.

The videos I shared on YouTube will make you realize that they are simple guns to work on. You need a couple of punches and picks, but no particularly rare special tools. This playlist includes all 4 videos: A couple of roll pin punches are the only unusual tools required. Unlike a standard punch they have a dimple in the center of the tip to keep the pin centered in the hollow pins on your gun. A cheap set with the sizes you'll need is available on Amazon for $13: Grip Roll Pin Punch Set, 9 Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L7HOMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c7Orzb67ST7BW (Technically you can get by with a 1/16" and 3/32" standard punch that have a flat tip, but you run the risk of damaging the frame or the pins if your punch gets off center and slips.)

Ambi safety retention roll pin sear spring (you WILL bend one eventually when you forget to return it to its home before installing the slide) trigger spring - easy to launch Magazine release spring and plunger Those are spares I keep on-hand.

As Jack said, I don't *crimp* 9mm loads. It can lead to all kinds of issues with coated and plated bullets. I adjust my crimp die to remove all traces of flare from the case walls, and that's it. Perhaps the slightest bend inwards of the rim. Yes, you must crimp a round in order to chamber check it. The flared case mouth won't even let it drop into the chamber all the way. However, you can also adjust your seating did downward to shove that already crimped bullet deeper in to case, shortening it in small increments until it plunks & spins. Even with coated bullets I don't usually have issues with this shaving coating off. And I'm going to use that round as a dummy round for dryfire afterward anyway... so it doesn't even get pulled and then fired later on. Take your time finding your maximum OAL for your Bullet and your barrel. Let's say that is 1.128" in a CZ you own. I deduct .005" so that I have some wiggle room to ensure reliability, and load my first batch of ammo at 1.123" which then gets tested for accuracy, and chronographed to check velocity.

Before you make any sight adjustments, shoot it in a twohanded grip with your weak hand pulling the trigger. I'm pretty sure I know what you'll find.

Really? I see that all the time. All the time.

Grip harder with the weak (left) hand. Very very firmly. Relax your trigger finger (right) hand. Work on pulling the trigger straight back - experiment with different finger placements on the trigger. Leave the sights alone and practice with the gun until you shoot it straight. Don't mask a problem with the setup of the gun - it won't motivate you to learn to shoot it straight nearly as aggressively. Also, experiment with shooting the gun left handed if you start thinking that it might actually be the sights. Magically, the holes will movecrhe opposite direction.

Second the recommendation for blue magic. autozone carries it.

Damn. I read his post twice and I swear I read "3.2" both times. Derp.

@SoCalShooter69 I'm assuming all the ports in the V12 make it a seriously sketchy prospect to get enough gas and velocity out of the gun to make PF and give the comp/barrel holes enough to work with?

I have heard surprisingly little about the taccom barrel, how are you liking that short barrel without a comp and all that shroud out in front of it, compared to a longer barrel and a comp?

That's about what I spent buying mine for $900 online.

What is the go-to lightweight upper of choice for PCC? And aside from their rather popular comp, what did you choose? Taccom?

The answers I figured.

Very true. Bottom of sear/cage where trigger bar rubs, and more attention to pins and holes and plunger dropped a full 1.25 pounds off my DA pull when I went back in for polish attempt #2.

You feel the ridges in the trigger bar zipper-ness when taking it out of the gun and manipulating it manually. Once you sand down the two mating components here (Like @johnbu I do actually chuck the plunger rod in a drill and aggressively sand out machining marks here) and polish it like mad? You'll feel the difference in the trigger pull. The trigger bar plunger and the pins and corresponding holes in sear/hammer/trigger? Those are where extra attention polishing things really make the gun feel amazing. Most guys don't really pay them enough attention.

You feel the ridges in the trigger bar zipper-ness when taking it out of the gun and manipulating it manually. Once you sand down the components (Like @johnbu I do actually chuck the plunger rod in a drill and aggressively sand out machining marks here) and polish it like mad? You'll feel the difference in the trigger pull. The trigger bar plunger and the pins and corresponding holes in sear/hammer/trigger? Those are where extra attention polishing things really make the gun feel amazing. Most guys don't really pay them enough attention.

Here are some halfway decent images you're welcome to use on your website or social media, if you want. I don't do photos professionally anymore so it's cool with me - they're just screencaps from the original HD video on my phone anyway. SSI Scales vs PD Palm Swell:

Given that he's loading a heavier bullet than my 130gr data, my suggestion would be a 3.6, 3.8, and 4.0gr ladder if using a 135gr Bullet. I think 3.8 would probably be close to the 130-133 power factor neighborhood with that Bullet and charge weight. Personally I load to 133-135 pf these days. Cycles the gun and hits steel a bit more aggressively, tends to be more consistent in velocity. I also find it's typically more accurate than something just barely legal like a 126 PF load. Youll shoot just as well and as fast with 135PF ammo as you will with 125.1

It doesn't have to be the same weight bullet, it simply has to recoil the same. 147 JHPs for defensive use will use a slower burning powder than our competition stuff so they feel snappier. Good news is, I've already done the legwork for you on this exact same scenario. I took a defensive shooting class a couple years ago and wanted to take ammo that feels just like the stuff I would shoot in defense of my life. I promise you that if you load up some ammo in that top combination (115gr FMJ and WSF powder) you will not be able to tell the difference. I stagger-loaded a magazine with 147 HST and the 115gr reloads and my friends could not tell which was which when they fired them through a G34 and G19. Felt identical.

Question for the PCCers as I begin to contemplate a new build: I see many of you are running a JP SCS recoil system, and perhaps their bolt. And lots of mention that their barrels are one of the few that'll let you load long for 9mm use. Why aren't complete JP uppers more common? Is it strictly a price thing, or is there another reason?

You're going to want 3.6gr of Solo1000, give or take. I didn't notice the velocity on your initial post or my first reply would have been "you're loading so light the powder isn't burning consistently! My load data with lots and lots of Solo1000 found in there:

Severe OAL variation, differences in case volume, and most importantly, the variation in charge weights with each powder drop. Those are the likely culprits. What was the standard deviation of your ammo? (Google "standard deviation calculator" and enter your velocities) 20 is horrible. 15 is pretty meh 10 is where we begin to be happy 5 is exceptionally consistent ammo.

Got mine. Better video that really lets you see the contours: First impressions? I was concerned they'd be too wide. They feel amazing. I can't imagine needing more traction. Dragging the gun down your forearm will leave scratches if you apply much pressure. No gaps and I like the way Joe used the screw head as an interference-fit with the hole to keep them from walking around. They are slightly harder to reach the mag catch on than a Henning or Scales grip. But only the slightest bit, and they're way better than factory wood grips. After a few dry reloads I don't see the need to carve a channel into them.