vous

I used them for a year or so and found them very good. I eventually changed to the Grams follower and spring simply because they gave me more capacity in my 40S&W. Even with Hennings H520 mag pads I could only ever get 17rnds in the mag with the Arredondos but got a reloadable 18 rounds with the Grams.

Ok! I'm sure my gun is a LARGE FRAME. So, I should buy a firing pin for large frame. Right? That's the problem: they say the firing pin for Stock II (DA / SA) is the small frame firing pin... Found the info it is on Hennings shop page where you order the pins. http://www.henningshootsguns.com/shop/hxlfp.html

Ok! I'm sure my gun is a LARGE FRAME. So, I should buy a firing pin for large frame. Right? That's the problem: they say the firing pin for Stock II (DA / SA) is the small frame firing pin... You need to be careful using the extra long pin on a large frame double action! The small frame pin is made to be safe with the double action, like the Stock II, but the large frame pin should only be used in single action guns unless you shorten the pin slightly. There is a post or an article on Hennings website about this somewhere, can't remember at the moment but will post a link as soon as I find it.

Just need a 9mm barrel and 9mm mags. Some 41A&E mags will fit 9mm as well so might not need any mags. Pays to try!

Sounds promising. Good luck!!!

I am pretty sure the new improved model has the metal insert for the holes the C-More screws into on the top of the mount not on the side that screws to the frame. That is how mine is anyway! It would pay to contact Henning as this mount might be out of spec and wasn't picked up when it was sent to you!

Those holes in the mount don't look right, but not at home to have a look on my mount. Will have a look at mine and confirm what mine are like!

The Stock II with a single action trigger is in effect a Limited in every way except it is about 1/2 inch shorter in the barrel & slide. If that is not a major issue for you and it shoots well I wouldn't bother getting the Limited unless you want another toy and that would be reason enough to get it for me!!!!

One thing you could try but don't know how long it would last is wrap some plumbers thread tape on the screw threads and then attach the mount. It should tighten the lock up between the screw and the frame holes and if not just put some more tape on. As I said don't know how long this would last but is worth a try!!!

Have the screws been stripped at the end or have the holes in the frame been stripped? Stripped screws are an easy fix, stripped holes on the frame not so much!! In answer to your previous query, yes my Alex mount is on a Tanfog and without the mount the screws go into the frame with no movement. One thing to check is that they are the correct screws for the frame thread. They should be but you never know. They should be Metric 4mm screws and from what I understand metric screws are not that common in the States so someone may have got them mixed up. Good luck!!!

I wouldn't say the 771's are cheap as in cheap and nasty, Nealio just got a great deal!!! All the pouches you mention are great but so are the 771's!!

A picture would be very helpful but if I am understanding your description correctly, it sounds like you have a countersunk head on the screw but the screw holes on the mount are cut for a socket head cap screw. If that is the case then I can see how you are getting movement. If you have some M4 socket head capscrews available you might try those and see if they fit properly!! If not, best option is to touch base with Henning as Nealio has suggested!

That certainly does not sound right!!!! Pictures would ceratinly help so we can see what could possiblky be out of whack!! One thing, I am presuming when you have the screws tghtened, they are sitting fairly flush with the mount and aren't sitting down inside the counter sink in the mount?

I think either will work as long as the screws are tight and don't back out. I haven't done anything to mine and they hold fine with no movement. You could try a dab of blue loctite to start, going to red if no luck with blue, and see if that holds them after tightening as they could be backing out with recoil!!

Do the screws you are using have a counter-sunk head? Mine came with counter-sunk head screws and while the holes are slightly bigger, they seat properly once the screw head sits inside the counter-sink on the mount hole.

Nicely done!!!!

Thought I would also mention that when I e-mailed Rescomp about this model specific holster, they confirmed it worked with both the squared trigger guard and the round trigger guard!!!!!

You'll want to read this thread about the surgery that you need to do to make the holster legal for USPSA: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=85681&st=0&p=987112entry987112 While the fix in the link is an excellent solution, you can just extend the trigger bar grove on the holster down a little bit and re-drill the hole for the screw and it will do a good job too!! This will allow the trigger guard to sit deeper in the holster than it currently is. Also CR Speed now also do a model specific holster and from what I understand this issue with the trigger guard has been remedied with this model! Other options are to sell the CR and get a Blade-tech holster which is very good or a Speedsec holster that you can find on Hennings website, also a very good holster!! Also looking at the photo are you using the "B" trigger bar for the holster? This is the bar you need to use for the Tanfog and CZ style trigger guards. Take out the trigger bar and look for a "B" molded into the bar, if it's not there you have the bar for the 1911/STI length trigger guard and that is also part of your problem!

You don't need to even change the hammer! Only need to take out the interruptor and you will have single action but it will have a very long take up when pulling the trigger. For best results would pay to change the hammer and trigger but at a pinch just changing the trigger and removing the interruptor would be a better move than the hammer.

I am sure both scopes will fit on the mount but the mounting holes do look slightly different in the spacing. If Znapie is making the mount for you get him to mark up the spaces for the C-More but not drill and tap the holes. That way you can check the spacing for the Leupold if you have one and adjust as required. As a matter of interest, do you have the Leupold and if so what are your thoughts and can you give some idea of the size difference between the two lenses? I do not have the DP scope yet, that's the problem. It is difficult to find good mounts for this kind of scopes so I wanted to buy the mount first. Fair call!! Good luck with getting the right mount and hopefully soon. Look forward to you posting a pic once you have it all sorted!!!!

"There is a lot of space to play with more porting behind your 3 ports & keep to factory look/spec 93Civiccpe" You will need to be careful with this comp. I have almost the exact same pistol and the comp on these is not like the newer coned comps but is cut flush at the end of the comp that sits against the slide and the barrel screws in and sits in the entire length of the back part of the comp up to the first port. If you start cutting into the back portion there you will also need to either shorten the barrel or cut the corresponding port in the front barrel portion, both options which I personally wouldn't do. 93Civiccpe's idea of just getting another comp altogether is probably the best if more ports are needed. However, mine works fine with just the three ports and the proper load and recoil spring weight.

I am sure both scopes will fit on the mount but the mounting holes do look slightly different in the spacing. If Znapie is making the mount for you get him to mark up the spaces for the C-More but not drill and tap the holes. That way you can check the spacing for the Leupold if you have one and adjust as required. As a matter of interest, do you have the Leupold and if so what are your thoughts and can you give some idea of the size difference between the two lenses?

Looks very similar if not the same as the mount on this old post. http://www.brianenos...howtopic=106388 I believe you are correct. Thanks a lot. The downside is that it seems pretty homemade and that the member hasn’t been connected since last year. Originally I found it on a Swedish 3gun forum and the moderator is a member here. So, I kind of hoped he would answer me and maybe put me in contact with the guy, but no luck so fare! It is homemade from what the post says but is very similar to the Alex mount that Henning sells as mentioned in one of the previous posts. Have a look and I think you will agree he has based the new mount on the Alex!! Easiest thing would be to get an Alex mount and trim off the back portion. On my Alex mount there are a couple of holes already drilled and tapped that look pretty close to the spacing for a J-Point of C-More STS. Other advantage is the Alex mounts on both side rather than just one so is super secure.

Looks very similar if not the same as the mount on this old post. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=106388

Hey There Did you manage to get the slide off OK???