93civiccpe

Beautiful setup!! Please update us once you are able to get to the range to fire it and let us know how it does. If it shoots half as good as it looks then you are set.

It looks to have the same styling as the Alex cmore scope mount on Hennings site which I linked below. Maybe someone machined off the tail piece and drilled the correct mounting holes or maybe the company makes the mount for that style sight? Here's the link to the eaa mounts.. Alex mount is halfway down: http://www.henningshootsguns.com/shop/mounts.html

I do have a couple more questions that maybe you guys can help me with as well. I was looking through the stuff included with this Tanfoglio and I found the bag shown in the picture below which is labeled a Chip McCormick titanium firing pin. Is there an easy way for me to tell if this is the titanium firing pin for the gun, or if the titanium pin has already been installed and this is the stock pin? I am assuming the gun will function much better with the titanium pin so I want to verify that it is the one installed. Here is the picture: And I also get one more chance to show off my lack of knowledge. This metal cylinder piece was included which is labeled "C.P. BULLETS CP9x21" on one side, and the other appears to have a taper. It looks to be about the correct diameter to fit the 9x21 brass. I'm just curious as to its intended purpose? Here are the pictures of it, and thanks again for the help!!

Here are the pictures:

Okay.. Pictures look like they are ready. First of all, ipscjoe, thank you so much for the information about Ross Dean (aka dr. dot) and also about the trigger. I am amazed and the wealth of knowledge and how helpful everyone is on here. I definitely appreciate it. Floydian, I also appreciate all the information you have given, although it has led me to have some more questions. As for whether or not it is a cone lock up, I am more than happy to expose my ignorance. What does "cone lock up" mean? From reading through these forums, I've learned that most tanfoglios are either the 1911 bushing style slide or a cone lock up slide. This definitely does not have the front bushing like a 1911 as you can see in the pictures below. That being said, how do I go about removing the compensator to remove the barrel and clean the slide? I see a good bit of residue above the barrel towards the front of the slide that seems to be just about impossible to get to without removing the barrel? Any suggestions? I have read that the older comps are threaded on, but are they right hand threaded or reverse threaded? Is there any technique to getting them off? The comp already has a small nick in it from the previous owner, and I wonder if it came from removing it for cleaning. I can see how the newer 1911 bushing style slide would make it so much easier to remove the barrel for cleaning, but I do like how tight this slide and barrel locks up. I'm confused about the mags / mag release advice you gave me. What benefit is the 2003/2004 type mag release? I am guessing I don't have this as I believe this gun was built in the 90's, but I included pictures of the mags I have along with a picture of the mag release in the frame and looking up in the magwell. (I'm not sure if that will make it easier to tell, but I'm curious what I should be looking for and what benefit the newer releases will give). This came with a brand new wolf 15 pound recoil spring, which is what I may begin with to start on the safe side. It did come with an eaa extended ambi safety which I know I can use for ipsc. I also agree it would be a shame to butcher the comp by putting an extra port. I am going to work up my load and see how the comp does, and if it seems like I still need to do some more work, I may look into having a new comp put on the barrel, but I do want to preserve the original. That being said, is there any reason why I should not shoot this in competition? I have had a few pm me telling me that these older tanfoglios are getting harder and harder to find and to take care of it as a lot of the custom parts can no longer be found. I definitely take extremely good care of my firearms and baby them more than I should, but I want to make sure this isn't something that belongs in a collection before I start competing with it. Once again I appreciate all the information and suggestions/advice you guys have been so kind to give! (And Happy Easter!)

Alright, first of all, thank you guys for all the information. I am learning more about this pistol every day and I appreciate it. I saw the flat trigger and figured it was a Hennings and didn't even think about the fact that this gun was put together in the mid to late 90's, well before the Henning's trigger came out. I appreciate all the information you guys have provided me and I hope to one day be able to pass along the information I'm learning. I am going to get some more pictures posted tonight with a few more questions but I wanted first to relay some information about the small frame mags. I was hesitant at first to post all of this in the open forum as I have not been able to try out these combinations myself yet, but here is what I've been told so far. I believe the easiest way to get a good functioning 170 big stick mag is to have Jim Anglin at Sailor's custom build one for you. I personally am going to have him build one for me in the near future once I get load development done. (I know I'll have to send him my gun to make sure everything is tuned right and I wanted to first get some range time and figure out my load). I hear he can trim one of the EAA 25 round mags that he listed above and can add a +2 basepad to make a bigstick mag. (By the way, if you download the catalog from EAA's website, the big mags for both the small frame and the large frame are listed in there, but Jim does give the correct numbers above). From everything I've seen and heard, he's the best source for getting a full functioning big stick mag and I believe his prices are very fair. For backup mags, I have been informed that there are factory 16 rounders, 17 round cz75 mecgar mags, 18 round sp01 mags, the eaa 25 round mag, and I hear there is even a 26 round mag out there but it is too big for the 170 gauge so it would have to be modified. I also know that in the henning's section in the classified forums there is a great write-up on modifying the springs, mags, and followers in order to increase the capacity of the above mags to hold an extra 2-3 rounds on average. I'm going to be investing some money and will be attempting some of this on my own. I will try to document it with pictures if it will help others who are trying to make the same choice. But for my 170 I am going to leave that to the pro... as I find that is the wisest choice if you want a competition mag that will be reliable.

Hey Joe, I've been given some great information about the high capacity mags by members via email and pm's. I don't have quite enough time during this lunch break but I'll try to get the information I have together and send you a pm. There are actually quite a few ways to get a good performing 170 mag.

Hey Oliver, I'm another new member from Virginia so I wanted to say hi as well. I have family up that way so I'll have to let you know when I'm visiting up that way in case you want to go shooting.

wow, thank you guys for all the quick replies. I definitely am going to get a big stick mag put together, but throwing a magwell on there now allows me to get out there and shoot some steel matches and will give me extra practice swapping mags which I know will benefit me in the long run. I do have a question about the slide racker. I see the majority of right hand shooters with it on the left side so your mag changing hand can quickly clear a jam or rack the slide if you have an empty chamber. Maybe it is because of the larger tube style red dot, but it seems awkward and slow to reach across to rack the slide if I kept it on the right to keep it away from my thumb. It gets more awkward if you are trying to tilt the gun to the right to clear a jam. I would definitely like any insight on this. I know it was originally set up this way due to the mount having a little less clearance on the left side, but you can either remove a little material to give the clearance you need, or you can get a smaller profile slide racker. (I hear the Henning modified sidewinders work well).

Hello Everyone, I'm new to the forums and have recently picked up my first open division gun. I have wanted to compete in open division for quite some time, and the biggest barrier has always been the cost of a decent rig. I saw an incredible deal and was fortunate to grab it before it was taken. I picked up an EAA Witness Gold Team pistol that was built in the mid to late 90's as an IPSC Open Pistol. It is in 9x21 caliber and I'm already stocking up on brass wherever I can find it. I wanted to verify that I"m correct in my assumption that this is a small frame since it is a 9x21 caliber and was put together in the mid 90's? It already has a trigger job, and the Henning flat trigger installed. I was told that it has a titanium firing pin in it as well. It came with 8 magazines which all have competition basepads and hold between 19 and 21 rounds. The Tasco tube style red dot site was "bullet proofed by doctor dot". I'm not sure what exactly that means, but it is clear, the dot has adjustable brightness, and I sight through it well with both eyes open. I have done a bunch of reading about these but I guess my question is what I should do to get it "competition ready" on a budget, and what should I look out for? The one major upgrade that I think I definitely want to do is trim the grips and install one of Henning's competition magwells. I'm also going to flip the slide racker to the other side as I'm a right handed shooter and it is more natural on the left side of the gun for me. I'm not as concerned with a bigstick 171.25mm magazine, but have already been informed that Jim Anglin can put one together for me for a reasonable cost. One of my concerns is seeing that a bunch of these have the slides crack around the ejection port. How can I prevent this? What weight recoil spring should I run to help prevent this? Is there a recoil buffer developed to help with this yet? All in all, I think I lucked out with a great gun that has spent most of its life in a safe. I can't wait to get out there and get shooting with it. I appreciate any and all information, suggestions, and advice that any of you have to give. Here are a few pictures, I'll try to get better pictures later:

I'm in the Chesterfield/Richmond area and I've already been told about Fredericksburg PS. I will definitely have to check it out. I hear there is both a steel match and an idpa match at black creek each month, and also at cavalier. I look forward to meeting and shooting with you guys!

Hey Guys, Thank you so much for all the advice and information. I've been reading along and keeping an eye on the classifieds looking for a good low-mileage used gun. I happened to come across a great deal locally on an older EAA Witness Gold Team custom pistol in 9x21. It already has a bunch of upgrades from Henning's site, and is ready to shoot now. I'm working up loads for it and am going to have it out competing soon. I got very lucky as the previous owner had it built by a very talented gunsmith and then hardly shot it as he lost interest in competition shooting. I'm going to get some pictures and more information up in the Tanfoglio section in the next couple days. I appreciate all the help and things to consider that you guys have passed on to me. Thanks again!!

Hey Guys, Thank you for all of the information. You guys brought up a lot of things I hadn't considered, and have given me a lot to think about. I must say "SIG shooter", getting into a used open gun for $1400 must have been nice, but I am expecting it to be a good bit more than that. I enjoyed shooting the 38 supercomp round but you guys brought up some good reasons to consider 9mm major. Fortunately I have a 550b for reloading the ammo either way, but I guess I need to look into the cost of the brass and the longevity of it, especially with 9mm major loads being harder on the brass. As far as travelling costs, I was planning to stay in Virginia for now as we have monthly steel matches at several local ranges. I know with a newborn on the way my shooting time is going to get reduced greatly, but this is the one hobby I want to try to hold on to. The bits of free time I do get I will try to put towards shooting. I know there are a lot of members with children who are probably chuckling right now at the thought, and maybe I'll be learning the hard way. I do have another question which is definitely going to expose my lack of knowledge. I see that a good number of the European open shooters are using the Sig X-5 (or the new X-6) Single action only frames. There is a used X5 competition model that I could pick up locally that is single action only, has the ambi safety at the top rear of the grip like the 1911 has, and has a trigger pull weight of around 2 pounds. It also has a threaded barrel. I just have not seen anyone locally shooting one of these X5/X6 frame open guns in a match. I know that there are factory sig 9mm magazines which hold 20 rounds, and I have read that there are companies working on a 140 tube which would hold closer to 25/26 rounds for use in the European circuit. So my question is whether or not this would be a legal open gun? I know I can have the frame drilled and tapped with a cmore mount similar to what is used on the race 1911's. I am just curious whether this is worthwhile and I appreciate any suggestions/opinions/information regarding this. My main reason for being interested is that I have carried and shot a sig p228, p229, and p226 for many years, and I am very familiar with the grip and feel of sig handguns. But are parts going to be more expensive since less are using them and less companies are making the parts? Is there a disadvantage to having a threaded on compensator? Are there any good threaded on compensators? I'm sure there is a lot of things to consider so if anyone has any information one way or another, I definitely appreciate it.

Hello everyone, I am new and I live in Virginia. I'm getting back into competition after several years off and I am impressed with the wealth of information on this site. I look forward to getting to you all!

Hello everyone, I'm new here and my name is Shaun and I'm from Virginia. I've been shooting and hunting for a long time, although I haven't shot a competition since getting married several years ago. I've always wanted to get into open class shooting and have been very fortunate to have shooters locally who have let me try out their open guns. I have a Dillon 550b and have loaded both handgun and rifle ammunition. I am interested in shooting the 38 super comp round and working up my own loads for it. The main barrier preventing me from getting into open class shooting was the cost of a good open gun. I have money saved up and an interested in advice on what to get. At the same time, my wife and I are expecting our first child so I know the budget is going to get tight again soon. I definitely think picking up a used open gun to save money is a great idea. But I am curious as to what I should be looking for? What should I stay away from? What price ranges should I be expecting? What is the typical life of a 38 super comp barrel? I appreciate any advice you guys are willing to give. I have been reading through the forums and this site is a gold mine of information. I'm really glad to have found this community!