All-Gator

gator098 I've been shooting SP2 for some time: Montana Gold 124CMJ's over 7.6 grains loaded to 1.120. It's performance is head and shoulders above anything else. I'm down to my last three pounds of that great powder and have absolutely no idea of where to score any more. Most likely, I will probably go back to VV3n37...although I did try SR7625 with reasonable success. A-G BTW: Ask kneelingatlas how he likes SP2

CAB Just break the bottom edge of the slide stop lug...the part that rests on the follower...(or even remove some material) and polish it up. Then a firm seating of the mag should allow the slide to release. A-G If you wanted it to be magazine specific, you could remove (cut back) material from the follower's contact ledge. Just know that if you are overly aggressive in removing material (from either part) you will wind up with no slide lock...not a bad thing in USPSA competition.

dozer All I can tell you is that I've encountered the exact same problem. My best guess is that a fully compressed mag spring somehow kinks and removes the pressure. The worst offender is my 26-rd Czechmate mags. I've tried various followers and various springs...all to no effect. So, I just load to less than max and reload at a different point in the stage. Good luck...and if you find a solution, let me know. A-G

Sphy There are outstanding matches (both USPSA and IDPA) at East Alabama Gun Club right across the Chatahoochee river from Columbus. I think it's even closer to you. BTW, this weekend it's an outlaw multi-gun format. A-G

When I was replacing the extractor which CZ-USA provided, I could not get the extractor in because the tang of the extractor hook was on the outside of the frame. If I had tried to force it, I think it would have (could have) produced the fracture which I experienced. (Yes, I had detail cleaned the slide/firing pin/extractor the night before the offending match problem.) So, a word to the wise, be careful to put the extractor hook in the frame before lowering the extractor onto the spring. Mea culpa?? A-G

Durability?? While shooting the Alabama Sectional (aka: Heart of Dixie Shootout) I had at least one mother-of-all-jams on every stage...sometimes two. After detailed disassembly at home, it turned out the bottom half of the extractor hook had fractured and broken off. This is after only approximately three thousand rounds. Not a happy camper at the moment...but I love the pistol and I guess I'll get over it. A-G BTW: The pistol is the CzechMate version of the TS and shooting 9Maj (172 PF) with an eleven-pound recoil spring. Also, if you like to run and gun, the Shootout is THE place to be. Take a look at the posted videos. A-G

Bassochist, You can purchase them from any of the CZ vendors. I'm pretty sure that would be true in Europe as well as here in the States. A-G

You may find that using an extended firing pin is the cure-all. Also, what CZinSC wrote is a must. BTW, over the years I've noted that high primers (ie, those not seating firmly in reloading) cause failure-to-fire more than light hammer springs. A-G

Rusty made one for me sometime ago: It was a simple aluminum tube with an OD equal to the diameter of the bored out extractor tunnel and an ID equal to the original tunnel. It was not a press fit, but was very tight. Further, it was held in place by a notch for the firing pin stop and then the rear was blended with the rear of the slide. This allowed the use of a regular extractor. Rusty can give you more information. He can be reached at David's Gun Room in Norcross GA (immediately north of Atlanta.) Or any local smith could easily fabricate one for you. I do not know of anyone who is actually marketing the device. A-G

There are many on this forum who believe that Clays is not a good powder for what you are trying to achieve. However, with that being said, I have found that 3.3 grains Clays/147 Zero JHP's will easily make minor in my CZ85; produces the softest recoil imaginable; and, has given me absolutely no trouble. The burn rate of Clays is almost identical to Bullseye and very similar to VV320. (VV310 is even faster.) Any of these powders should produce the result for which you seek. Pay attention to what superdude cautioned.

The only problem is that the hammer will foul the sight blade. So, you have to mill off some of the top of the hammer...or mount the Bomar type sight higher than normal. Or notch the sight blade. At least this is true of the competition hammers. Not sure about OEM hammers. A=G

Just remember the first law of the universe: You can never have too many guns!

What TallGuy wrote. Damn, why would a good Conservative write Progressive? Off to wash my fingers. Yuck!!! A-G

Atlas, my man, you are right...if it ain't broke, don't fix it. However, to feed your desire to experiment: Try some progressive rate springs along with the buffer(s). A-G

Try Cajun Gun Works for a race hammer...and while you're at it, get one of his sears. David's products are top-notch! A-G BTW: David has modified a Combat trigger to SA only. Now that's a cool look...and a greatly reduced reach for short fingers!

G34, I have a recommendation: Rather than worry about the weight of your trigger, focus on obtaining a total absence of creep and a complete suddenness in let-off. If you have those characteristics you may find it difficult (if not impossible) to tell the difference between a one-pound trigger and a three-pound trigger. Of course, you will tell the difference of a New York trigger. Bottom line: A crisp trigger is more important than a light trigger...in my opinion. Atlas, I bet you already know this, but reducing the mass only will decrease lock time. It has nothing to do with weight of release. A-G

There seems to be several variables/factors being questioned in this thread. First, after reading the reports of sheared under lugs, peened lock up lugs, etc. I immediately disassembled both my TS and my CzechMate. I closely examined them under magnification. After perhaps four thousand rounds through each (9 Major in the CM and .40 Major in the TS) I cannot find any evidence of peening, fissures, undo (or uneven) wear in either. The evidence (or lack thereof) would suggest that the timing is spot on. Now, CZ did provide three (3) fitted barrels with the CM...SN xxxx, xxxxA, and xxxxB...and it makes me wonder if this is this an indication that the factory thinks there might be a problem and is just trying to get ahead of the power curve? Whatever...it ain't broke now and I hope it stays that way. Second, both weapons have stainless steel guide rods. The TS has a buffer and the CM does not. I've used buffers since I started this game...and I'm older than dirt. Read that as going on 75. I did not...and do not...use them to protect the frame: I use them to shorten the stroke to the max and decrease the recovery time to go back in battery. (I used to have good splits, but, now, I've slowed to the point that it really doesn't matter. However, it's an old habit/technique that I've never tried to break.) There is one other contributing factor that makes it a little more difficult with the CZ's. The ejector is on the sear frame...you can't just buy an extended ejector to adjust to the shortened stroke. It, basically, is the limiting factor in playing with the spring/buffer/length of stroke. With that being said, my TS has a buffer and the 11-pound spring was reduced by one-and a quarter coils. It works fine. And last, I've never thought of the slide release shaft as being a "fuse." Again, the factory supplied three with each of the weapons. Another indication that the factory is trying to get ahead of problem without fixing it? Don't know...but I think I'll always take a spare with me. A-G BTW, the TS has a Cajun Gun Works hammer and sear if that matters.

Hey Mark You might need to add an important exercise to your routine. It's called push-aways...just grab the edge of the dinner table and...well, you get the idea. Unfortunately , I dropped that from my routine several years ago. See you Saturday. Joe

1) Over the years I've found the following technique to be useful: Take a well-aimed sight picture and fire the first round of a double tap. The second shot is fired as quickly as possible with little concern for the sight picture. If the second rounds are consistently low...use a lighter spring. If they are consistently high...use a heavier spring. Don't worry about the pounds. 2) If battering the frame is a great concern then (for sure) use a polymer guide...and/or use a buffer and slowly reduce the spring a quarter of coil at a time till no problems with short-stroking are present. Also, using a progressive spring should help. The above was done primarily using STI/SVA frame pistols and the 1911 lock up system...but it's worked for my CzechMate and for my TS. Right now, I use an 11-pound spring in both. I'm thinking about a 10-pound spring in the CzechMate. A-G

+1 on the DAA. I use one for my CzechMate: Slickest coming out of the holster...absolutely no drag; the lock down lever is convenient; and, the lock down is absolutely secure and rigid. I prefer it over my Guga Ribas and my other previous holsters. I have a second block for my 75SA and can change it quickly and with no trouble. Granted that you do have to fit it to the mechanism, but it's no big deal. And the available tutorial is excellent and clear. A-G

In my CzechMate: 124 MGCMJ; 1.120 OAL; 7.7 SP2; WSR; 168PF. In my wife's 9maj STI: 125 Zero JHP; 1.172 OAL; 9.6 SP2; Wolf SRP; 172 PF. I used VV3n37 for about 20 years before finding SP2. I've never encountered problems with it...other than having a noticeable/distracting fireball when shooting indoors...great powder. BTW, I can't change the font, italics and underlining. WTF? A-G

I've had both shoulders and both hips enhanced with Teflon and Titanium...getting old ain't for sissies. Stryker has a model that provides more range of motion...about 10% more...and is designed specifically for "more active" patients. Google the various brands...there are significant differences. Ask your surgeon what brand and model he typically uses. BTW, my surgeon had been using the older model from Stryker and I had to "discuss" what I wanted. Also, if your surgery is being done at a teaching hospital ask (demand) that the surgeon does the work and not one of the residents. My shoulders required about 3 or 4 months of recovery time, but my hips didn't. They had me walking in about two hours after I woke up. I was back in the gym in about two weeks after both hip surgeries and running (jogging really...sorta like an airborne shuffle at first) after about six weeks. The surgeon and the PTs were not in favor of what I did. But I just paid attention to no severe rotation/turning of the hips...all exercises in the gym were on the machines and the running was strictly straight forward. No problems. I will say that three of the joints are as if they were OEM...the right hip not so much. I am aware that it has been replaced...but have encountered no restrictions/problems. I also spent three years with debilitating pain in the knees. It turns out that referred pain from the knees is a very common symptom from arthritic hips. Everybody kept telling me it was from my back. Wrong! Hey, best of luck. A-G

+1 on recommending David at CGW. His work is top-rate and he will offer ideas but will do exactly what you want. What is really different is that he always answers the phone and talks as long as it takes. I don't think f he ever leaves his shop!! A-G

This problem exists for CZ's as well. The CZ has a vertical pin which captures the hammer pin...don't know if Tans have the same setup. This pin is underneath the sear cage. By installing a slightly longer pin it stabilizes the cage. Of course it requires fitting by slowly reducing the length. Uhh, Cha-Lee, no offense, but I really disagree that "self-centering" parts are desirable/acceptable. Light triggers (1 1/2 lb. and below) require rigid, stable parts and precise fitting in order to be consistent, reliable, and safe. Again, no offense, just my opinion. A-G

You don't seem adverse to driving a bit...so consider South River GC (a little south of Atlanta right up I-75) and East Alabama GC (right across the river from Columbus/Ft Benning.)