caspian guy
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Posts posted by caspian guy
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Try these guys www.mpja.com (http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=19183+HD)
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For large pin colts I have used jard triggers. I think jp also makes a trigger that fits a large pin.
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Thanks... I needed a good laugh.
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Which piston do you have in the gun? If you don't have a sporting clays piston, installing one should help you shoot lighter loads. Also I had the best luck with remington gun club shells.
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I think the first gen Vtac rifles had carbine length gas, I think the new ones are mid-length. I didn't like the particular geisselle trigger in the one I handled as well as the JP triggers in the older Vtac rifles, but that's personal preference. I didn't notice if the flashhider was pinned on (if it was that'd be a deal breaker for me). All in all it seemed like a solid workable rifle
and I doubt it would hold you back. What matters is do you like it? If so buy it, shoot the crap out of it, and tell us what you think.
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Looking for a good combo of followers and springs to use with Dawson snl base pad. I'm currently running Wolff springs and old sv fallowers. They gave me fits all day yesterday, the springs are only 4 months old and two of them are already loosing strenght. Just looking for help. Oh and they are cleaned every time I drop them on the ground.
I assume you are referring to what I think SV called competition followers ( I think 40 was red, .38 sup was purple)? If so I had better luck with ISMI springs. I now run grams springs and followers in that kind of mag.
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Shocked nobody posted this: go to cody http://www.bbhc.org/explore/firearms/
Edited to add someone did post it.. I just missed it.
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Silhouette is in my opinion probably a bit slow for .40. It would work, just not optimal. (For reference I use it in my open gun).
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You need to shoot a rifle caliber out of your rifle in all the 3 gun matches I've seen.
Probably right... You could probably get away with 9mm in uspsa. If you could get major 9mm to run in it without tearing anything in the gun up, it ought to make rifle minor and the bullet is larger than the minimum (might be some rule against it I don't remember). Don't remember how uspsa defines a rifle (whether it must have a stock or not).
Interesting thought anyway.
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Also check your scope and mount.
Was the barrel a tight fit in the reciever or was there some play? (i have seen a really loose fit between the barrel extension and the upper exhibit this behavior). (Could probably exacerbate the issue matt mentioned above).
Is anything touching (or close to touching) under the float tube (gas block for instance)?
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Hmm... If you removed the clip in the slot in the reciever that retains the pin, I always pushed the pin out the bottom of the reciever by sticking a small allen wrench or punch down through the small hole at the bottom of the ejection port that lines up with the top of the pin.
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Of the 2 scopes you asked about originally, I much prefer the TAC30. If your budget will stretch just a bit I'd go with the MTAC.
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Just as an aside, once a long time ago (2001 or 2002 can't remember), 10mm auto was allowed in CDP. I don't remember the rational for removing it. But if they took it out back then I just can't see them adding .40 now.
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I'd have a competent smith look at the gun.
However if everything is ok in the fire control parts, if the gun has an over travel stop screw you might try adding more overtravel. That should increase the distance you to have to move your finger to reset the trgger (as now the trigger will move back farther when you fire before it stops).
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Missoula!
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+1
It was a bit of a pain to get to but the weather was awsome.
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Hmmm automation engineer with too much time on his hands, huh?
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You might look here http://www.cncguns.com/projects/stiframe.html
For some info on a similar project.
He built himself an "STI" frame out of aluminum?
Now there is a LOT of effort for a useless piece of crap!
Mike
Wouldn't have been my choice, but they must work to some extent (STI did at one point sell aluminum frames).
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You might look here http://www.cncguns.com/projects/stiframe.html
For some info on a similar project.
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How about using a 22 conversion kit for your ar?
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Ok - here we are:
r
- bought an ALG fire control group from Brownells (100-009-796) which is the cheap one - $42.
- put it in this morning, went to range.
- ran 100%
- brought the trigger pull down from about 9+#'s to just over 6 (6.1 x Lyman trigger gauge)
- BUT that is not the best part...it is smooth. VERY. It doesn't feel like 6# - but then again the gritty 9.5 # was a nightmare.
Conclusion: having fought w/ the crappy Russian rounds for what now, a month?, I cannot recommend this "fix" highly enough. I've had, oh I don't know, maybe 6 or 8 different fire control & spring combos & none of them worked except that brutal stock AR 9.5 # trigger group. This works & makes shooting the x39 round a pleasure.
W/ the new gov't contract reaching out for all the .223 it can find for the next 3 years & the election coming in 4 months, the price of everything is going to skyrocket. The .30 cal Russian may be best "bang for the buck" - pun intended, sorry - you can find. I haven't really gone & played w/ it yet but will shortly. I have a feeling at 123 gr it'll do exactly what I intend. It'll be a 75-500 meter killer...& at .21 - .30 cents a round, how can you beat that? Can't re-load for that price!
Das Vedania, Comrades!
(whatever that might mean!!!)
Sounds good, glad you found something that worked for you.
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I took a class on revolver shooting from Rodney and Sam and they suggested that approach (pressing together to engage you pectorals). I am normally an open shooter but figured why not, so I tried it a bit in practice with my open gun... It seemed like maybe it caused the dot to track straighter? Not sure yet what to think... I am going to play with it a bit more as I have practice time and see if it leads me anywhere interesting.
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my situation is slightly different than yours, my russian ammo upper is 5.45x39.
If you could tolerate a 2 stage I was able to get a decent trigger using an rra nm trigger group and a red hammer spring.
The only real issue I ran into was all the extra pressure from the hammer spring caused the hammer to get stuck on the disconnect hook. The simple fix for that was to lightly polish the surface of the disconnect hook of the hammer to slightly reduce the friction (being careful not to change the geometry) after that it reset and functioned correctly. I'll have to check it on the pull gauge but I think it ended up being right at 5lb.
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The ap has 2 collars one that goes behind the milspec barrel nut, and one in front. Screws are used to connect the 2 and sandwich the barrel nut between them. Then the float tube slides onto that assembly and is secured to that assembly with screws that go through the float tube and thread into the collar/barrel nut assembly.
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Or I think briley makes an aluminum guide rod. That would help some.
Powder Recommendation for a Dillon 650 and .223
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
H335