Joe D

You don't have to do much to the long nose bar.

I have not seen any benefit.

It is a hit or miss deal. The short nose bars are a dull/dark gray. The long nose bars are very bright. They look like they are nickle plated. The cruciform area looks a lot different.

That is correct. I have not found that raising the hole helps lighten the pull. BTW if you choose to raise the hole just use one of the thin diamond cutoff wheels for a Dremel. Cut a diagonal slot where you want the hole to be. Much easier than trying to drill one. Make about a 60 degree cut. That way the spring hook stays in place. Cutting it horizontal will allow the hook to slide to one side.

The "slope" is not as severe as it looks. It is actually a spot with a larger radius. Glock currently has two suppliers of trigger bars. One is a long nose, the other is the short nose. The long nose versions have a larger radius which yields a softer pull.

I need to hold onto that bit of info. It would be difficult to show or explain. Sorrry.

It puts more tension on the spring and limits forward travel of the trigger. I have never used an extra power return spring.

Further testing has revealed that the LWD connector has a pull about 2-3 oz. lighter than a Scherer and Glock 3.5 connector. OTOH both Scherer and Glock connectors will yield a pull under 2 lb.

Here's some details for a sub 2# Production legal trigger. The only parts that are not factory Glock are the Lone Wolf connector, Wolf reduced power striker spring, a reduced power safety plunger spring and a Lightning Strike steel striker. The trigger bar has a slight modification to the "nose". Sorry but this is the best picture I could take with my camera. If you look closely you will see there is a ever so slight change in the radius of the nose. As always make certain you have enough striker/trigger bar engagement. Too little can cause doubling. Remember you are modifying a gun for competition use only. I would not recommend this or the other trigger job I posted for carry/personal defense use. Do this modification at your own risk. My G35 has a trigger pull of slightly over 1 1/2 lbs. with this trigger job.

Here's how I bend the tab. Make certain you heat the bend before you try to bend it. Remember don't bend it too far forward as you will defeat the striker safety. I will be posting details on how to get a Production legal sub 2# trigger soon. I really had not spent too much time working on this as I was more interested in just seeing how light I could get a Glock trigger. My best so far is 14 oz. I think I can go even lower, but there is really no need to. The Production legal trigger that I worked on today is sitting at a little over 1 1/2 lbs. That is without using an extra power return spring. The only parts that are not Glock are the striker spring (Wolf), lwt. striker (Lightning Strike) and Lone Wolf connector.

AG, if you shoot 200 gr LSWC in the .45 you will pay less than you would for plated or jacketed 9/.40 bullets. Not sure what powder you have, but 3.5 gr of Titegroup at a 1.260" OAL is very soft and accurate out of my Kimbers. There is one big advantage the 200 gr SWC has over a 9mm in particular - big holes. I shot a G21 with the 3.5 gr load for a few matches. I kept track of .45 holes that touched the -0 ring that would have been a -1 with a 9mm. I did the same thing with -1 vs -3. I picked up on the average 3-5 seconds in a typical 50 - 60 round IDPA match. That gain would be even greater in a high round count State Match. I liked the G21 at that PF. I shooting friend liked it more so I had to let it go. CDP? It is hard to miss that big mag well a STI has. Brownells offers a SS mag well that fits into the box.

I too have felt the .357 Sig was a solution looking for a problem. I have carried a G23 for years, wife does too. The problem some folks have with the .40 is they pick the wrong round. A 135-155 gr defensive load is pretty harsh. I carry the 180 gr Ranger Talon. It is a very soft shooting load. I have never felt the fast light bullet was the way to go in any caliber. I like the 147 gr Ranger in 9mm. Their 127 gr +P+ is a hand full.

Glock appears to have whittled their trigger bar suppliers down to two. At one time they had three.

TL, a 1911 style gun shooting a 200 gr .45ACP at a 130 PF shoots softer than a 9mm at the same PF. How do I know this? I have both.

Like I said it is a little tricky. Moving pin location on the pad has a profound effect on pull weight and striker release point. Moving it too far will not allow the striker to release. Too much in another direction will cause the gun to double. Make sure you check the trigger bar/striker engagement. Too little engagement is not good. You will get a little more engagement when you just rack the slide then pull the trigger than from when you hold the trigger back, rack the slide, then allow it to go forward and reset. Check both. One other thing to check for is make sure the striker safety plunger "nub" on the trigger bar does not drag on the slide. Remember with Glocks we are dealing with stamped parts.

They cannot be shot in SSP. However an STI Eagle in perfectly legal in ESP. Build/buy one in either 9mm, .40 or even .45ACP. The best choice would be a .40. The same gun can be used in Limited. I had one I sold recently in .40 that was a very good gun. I just can't shoot 1911s. I still think a 2011 in .45ACP would make an outstanding ESP gun. A big fat 200 gr SWC at 650 fps is pretty sweet.

That trigger bar is pretty hard isn't it. You have to use a good quality bit and turn it slowly to get through it. Remember the hole location on the pad is critical. It took me several attempts to get it right. Got a whole drawer full of ruined pads and bars.

Yes you can adjust the release point for different size hands. It will be difficult to explain here. It involves putting the new trigger pad hole in slightly different positions depending on where you want it to release.

Rich, where in the world did you come up with that logic? My statement had nothing to do with cheating. That is something you read into it. Maybe I was not clear enough so let me try again. I stated clearly that the modification is NOT LEGAL FOR PRODUCTION. The part that I consider debatable is whether or not the filled pin hole should be considered a visible modification. When done properly one cannot tell there was ever a hole there. The debate in not with you, but with the USPSA ruling. Sinced they ruled it is considered a visible/external modification that is OK with me. I don't shoot Production, only Limited. It is perfectly legal there. I think one of the CCF frames with a good trigger like this is all one needs to be competitive with the STI guns in Limited. I guess I should make one thing clear about CCF frames as there has been considerable debate over the canted slide issue I and others noticed. I seriously doubt the uneven frame rail problem is wide spread. How many? I don't know. I would not let that issue stop me from buying one of their frames. If you purchase it through Brownells and happen to get a bad one Brownells will take care of the problem - no questions asked. I certainly wish I had bought mine through Brownells.

I have not advocated cheating. Where did you come up with that? I stated it was not legal for Production. I like the Lightning Strike lwt steel striker. I don't care for the titanium model. I use a 4# Wolf striker spring. I have tried using a shortened stock spring, but the results were not as good. If you use the Wolf spring be sure to use a lwt striker. The stock striker and Wolf spring will pop Federal primers. You will have light strikes on occasion with Winchester and CCI.

It is not legal for Production. OTOH even that is really debatable. Done properly the old hole location is not visible. One can get a 2# Glock trigger without relocating the trigger pad. Actually a little under 2# if you do it right. A combination of the LWD connector and a little reshaping of the trigger bar nose will get you under 2#.

Forgot to mention - use a little black epoxy to fill the old pin location hole.

I have decided it is time to reveal most of the secrets. I have given several of you various hints on how to do this. The first step is to knock out the little pin that retains the plastic finger pad. You will need to support the other side or you will break out the whole side of the pad. I tap the pin a little to mark the other size then weaken that point a little with a grinder. Drive the pin all the way out. Now the pad is free of the bar. Note where the hole is in the bar. You will need to move this hole up the "leg" about .120". You may have to play with this dimension a little as Glock uses more than one supplier of trigger bars. I have found it to be pretty close though. The next thing to do is relocate the pivot hole in the pad. This is the tricky part. Where you locate this hole will determine where the trigger bar releases the striker. I have three different trigger pad "standards". These are pads that I use to transfer the hole location from one pad to another. Each causes a different striker release point. Remember those statements where I said one can cause the trigger bar to release the striker at different points without the use of an overtravel stop. The next step is to bend the trigger return spring tab forward. This does two things. It will limit the pretravel and at the same time put more tension on the spring. Don't bend it too far forward or you will disable the striker safety plunger. You want the little tab on the top of the trigger bar to just be touching the plunger. Be sure to heat the tab or it will break when you try to bend it. I clamp the bar in a vise and use a screwdriver to bend the tab Next step is to trim back the little safety lever on the plastic trigger pad. It has a little "L" shaped nub on the end. You will need to remove material back to where the nub ends or just before. I like the LWD connector best of all. If you want a really short crisp 3# trigger use an 8# connector. Use a lwt striker spring and you will have a sub 2# trigger. I you experiment a little you can get a 1# trigger. Attached is a picture of a relocated trigger pad. Let's get those grinders and drills cranked up. Why am I doing this? First of all I don't need the money. Secondly there are those that IMO overcharge for their services. BTW do these modifications at your own risk. Always make certain you maintain sufficient striker/trigger bar engagement.

3.0 gr of TG. OAL 1.140000001"

I am yet to see the need for a "U" die. I had one briefly. Did not like the hour glass look it gave the brass. I have changed over to the standard Lee carbide sizer for all my pistol cases and never looked back.