Toolguy

What I would say is - Revolver is DA every shot, many autos are DA 1st shot, SA every other shot, or SA every shot. The advantage goes to the auto. Round count is 6 for everyone. No advantage to either. The dot sits in the same place on both. No advantage to either. A carry optic revo is no more or less expensive to set up than a carry optic auto. An Open class revo is way cheaper to set up than an Open class auto, revos can be in Open class. Advantage in Open to revolver. A revolver is still harder to shoot well than an auto. Advantage to auto.If revos were easier, everyone would still be shooting them. I can't think of any reason why a revolver can't be allowed in the PO division, other than someone didn't think of revos when they wrote the rules about the slide part. Many auto shooters just don't think of revo as a viable option. A lot of ICORE and Steel Challenge people I know have a revo with a dot that might give AP a try if allowed to use what they have. The shooting community is small enough without excluding some of them.

I've got a couple of piezo electric igniters for the oxyacetylene torch that have been going for over 20 years.

Maybe you black powder guys could switch to a piezo-electric igniter?

Yes, you read it like a normal mike. That's why the angle of the anvil only works for one number of flutes. For example, a V anvil mike for 3 flutes is very different to a V anvil mike for 5 flutes, etc. Even numbers can be measured with a regular mike because there will always be 2 that are directly opposite.

I don't make anyone do anything. Everyone is free to do as they wish. That was a suggestion, not an order.

Click on the link and look at the picture.

Under $200 if you know where to look. Much more otherwise. https://www.shars.com/products/measuring/micrometers/0-2-1-108-degree-5-flutes-measured-v-anvil-micrometer

The angle on the trigger where it engages the notch in the hammer is critical. When stoning that part, you want to lay the stone on a hard, flat surface. Lay the hammer on the surface and move it back and forth along the side of the (square) stone, which is held still. This keeps the back face of the trigger exactly perpendicular to the sides of the trigger. Also, you want the top surface of the trigger at about 80 degrees to the side of the stone, or 10 degrees closed from 90. This gives you the proper angle to hold the hammer without pushoff. Make sure you end up with a sharp edge where it fits in the hammer notch. Doing this will correct pushoff on about 90 percent of guns that have it. The other 10 percent will probably need new parts.

Hi Don- I'm glad you like it. The original S&W type mainspring works the best with this hammer. A lot of the newer S&W guns are being shipped with the Wolff Power Rib spring that is not as strong. If you have one of those in the gun, you may want to switch to an S&W mainspring and see how that works. The K&L frame hammers (one hammer fits both) are in process (partly done). Right now we are kind of buried in our normal customer orders of precision machining, maintenance, and prototyping. We are working extra hours to try to get the hammers turned out.

You need a micrometer to measure the bullet diameter after it's been pushed through the barrel. For an even number of lands and grooves, a regular micrometer works. Six lands and grooves is common, there are many others. For an odd number of lands and grooves, you need a V anvil micrometer made for that number. Five lands and grooves is common, there are others. Most of the current S&W revos have 5 lands and grooves, which makes measuring the bullet problematic unless you have a V anvil micrometer (mike) made to measure 5. These are most often used to measure cutting tools with 5 flutes, like an end mill, reamer, special drill bit, etc.

The main thing to remember is you always want to go from bigger to smaller. For example, if you have .358 bullets, you can go to .357 throats and .355 barrel and be OK. If you have .355 bullets and .357 throats and barrel, it may not work as well. If the barrel has a tight spot where it threads into the frame, it will swage the bullets down and they will rattle down the rest of the barrel causing leading and large groups.

This same story has been repeated over and over for years. The reamer won't cut any bigger than SAMMI specs. If the chambers are already the right size, no material will be removed. If they are undersize, it will only cut to correct size.

SC is legal for ICORE. The 929 guns have sometimes been more problematic than the 627 guns, mainly due to the Ti. cylinders. If a 929 has problems, usually once you get it working, it's the same as a 627.

The 2 main choices are - There are dings on the chamber mouth from dry firing OR some of the chambers are undersized and need to be reamed to normal size.

I figured. Just kidding.

Looks good. Speed loaders normally go in from the top, though.

Probably some of both, but mostly to reduce movement of the gun during the trigger pull. I shot PPC for 20+ years, and tried just about everything during that time. It is definitely possible to have too heavy a gun. If it's too heavy, it will tire you out over the 150 round course of fire. By the end, you are just wishing it would all be over, rather than concentrating on shot placement. For me, the most weight I can comfortably deal with is a slab bull barrel and a sight rib, no underlug. The other part of that is to have the best possible DA trigger pull. I have a new drop in trigger kit that does that, but sadly, didn't have it all the years of PPC shooting.

You can get a Green Mountain one from Brownell's for $36.99. It's a 9mm 1 in 10 twist, 17" long. You can get 2 barrels out of that blank. It doesn't tell the OD. You want to end up with 1.06" OD for a PPC rib. The part # is 371-000-039WB. GM has a reputation for good barrels. Lothar-Walther has one that is 9.25" long and 1.19" OD. with a 1 in 9.8 twist. It's a 9mm/380 ACP for $134.50. You may wonder why you would want a 9mm barrel (.355) for a 38/357 (.357) gun? Mainly because they shoot very well, and then you have a wide selection of bullets to choose from when reloading. My open class Bianchi Cup 686 has a 6" Walther 9mm (.355) barrel. Fired from a ransom rest, it shoots 125 gr. 357 JHP in a 3/8" group at 25 yards and a little over an inch at 50 yards.

Where are you located (approximately)? Maybe there is someone local that could help. There are still a few custom revo smiths that might do it. Andy Horvath comes to mind, but there are others.

Clark Custom Guns would probably build you a PPC gun on a 627. The 627 with 8 shots is the one to get for one all around gun. You don't have to shoot all 8 every time. If you only need 6, like PPC, shoot 6 and reload, just like you would with a 6 shot gun. You still need to load the clips with 8 for reloading purposes. Then you also have a couple of spares. In case of a misfire, you can just pull the trigger again. You will never get the really good DA trigger pull from a Colt or Ruger that you will from a Smith. Any of them can have a good SA trigger pull. My PPC guns have either a Walther or Douglas slab barrel with 1 - 10 twist, Wichita Rib, and no underlug. Wichita doesn't make sight ribs any more, but you can get an Aristocrat TriSet rib that will do nicely.

That's pretty much it. Most people used a K frame they already had or one they could get for cheap, or maybe a model 28 occasionally.

Yep - you can file it off, but you want that material there to bring it back (close) to original dimensions.

The length of the chamber is irrelevant. The throat at the front of the chamber lines up the bullet before entering the barrel. What matters is - Proper chamber throat diameter, good forcing cone, no barrel constriction, good rifling, good muzzle crown, proper timing, good ammo.

For classic, 4,5, or 6inch barrel. My preference is 686.

There weren't any 8 shot N frames then, either. Lots of PPC guns have been built on N frames. I built myself a M625 45 ACP one with 6" slab barrel and Wichita Rib and a M29 44 Auto Mag one with a 5" comped slab barrel and a Wichita Rib. The 44 AM was used as a Bowling pin gun for many years. Both work great. The 44 AM is the one in my avatar.