Toolguy

I'd shoot it first, before worrying about anything. It may do fine. If not, you can ream the others to .358. You'll probably need a carbide reamer, due to the coating on the Ti cylinder. I bet it will be OK as is. The only way to know is to go shoot it.

Hi, gargoil66. Thanks for the report! We're glad you like it. We can't test every gun, so customer feedback helps us be sure the product works in as many guns as possible.

There are also people with disabilities (wheelchair, etc.) that could shoot SC if not for the movement stage.

Yay! Another happy customer! Thanks, BadShot. All the Best.

Great! Let us know how it works out.

If these hammers get going, we will evaluate the possibility of doing hammer nose hammers in the future. Those guns would greatly benefit as well as the newer ones. The hammer nose hammers are different geometry from the plain hammers, so there would be some development work to do them, plus there are 3 different hammer nose ones, as opposed to 2 plain nose ones.

We need Inspector Callahan back...

Mike - I have a couple of Millett sights I was going to give you when you were here, then I was going to send them with the hammer kit. Both times, I got sidetracked and forgot. I'll never use them, so I'll get them out to you this week. It's hard to believe that 10 years have gone by since you were doing actions. Where did the time go?

Thanks for the review, Mike. We're be looking forward to seeing how this all ends up. Mike brings up a couple of good points. One is that the hammer kit can't fix all the problems a gun might have. If you have excess endshake, ratchets not fitted, barrel problems, late timing, etc., those will have to be dealt with separately, the same as always. Also, you can use the setscrew to easily find the right hammer fall tension, then make a regular strain screw that duplicates it. That's way better than making a dozen original strain screws in itty bitty increments to figure it out.

Yes, please let us know how it works out.

I do, but originally I didn't know this was the article being discussed.

Thanks!

Is there a way non USPSA people can read it?

OK. That is crazy.

It's hard to imagine that 38 Short Colt loads could do that. Are you sure that's erosion and not lead buildup? It's hard to tell from the picture. It could be erosion, but double check. Sometimes one can look like the other.

Someone else was making a double stack prone pad, in another Bianchi thread, in 2018. So we didn't pursue it. You might get with them about that. If you want an adjustable angle prone pad, you can just back off the setscrew on the PD one. Check to make sure the mainspring housing pin doesn't migrate out sideways if you do that.

We have a Prone Pad Extension that will give you another inch of height. You can replace the Prone Pad Base Plate (Little Foot) with it. Unfortunately, there is no way to use both at the same time. Give us a call or e-mail Tracy if you want to order one. We have them in silver and black.

I haven't seen that before. Maybe someone else will know. Given the problems with Ti cylinders, you might think about getting a stainless one. Those would probably be easier to find, anyway.

Great news. Measure and record the present hammer (not trigger) pull weight before you start so you can dial it back exactly the same after you take out the strain screw. That's why there's a hole in the top of the hammer. It makes an easy, repeatable way to weigh the mainspring pressure independent of the rest of the action. When you do the LocTite, take the screw out, clean it and the hole with solvent, dry it or let it evaporate, then coat the screw with LocTite and put a bit in the hole. Some people say put one drop, but that isn't enough. The idea is to get it in all the voids between the male and female threads, so use enough, and wipe off the excess. There is nothing else it can get on and jam up in that area of the gun. Use a rag and Q tips for clean up. You can still easily adjust the strain screw with no heat after the LocTite sets up. Any time you get a misfire, tweak it up a little. At some point you won't have any more. Record that hammer pull setting for future reference.

Thanks for the report, shoots100! Looking forward to the update, too. Any other hammer reports would be most welcome. We're trying to get an objective general consensus that might help others decide to get one (or more). We are getting close to making our own DA sears, the part we can no longer buy. Once we have those in hand, we will assemble and ship the rest of the N hammers and move on to the K and L hammers. This is just one more speed bump of many we have had to overcome in the last year +. Thank you all for your support and patience as we try to get this project off the ground.

Most likely something with the barrel. Maybe bad forcing cone, bad muzzle crown, constriction in the barrel, bad rifling, or a combination.

Power Custom FP are what I'm using in my kits. They have worked very well for me.

You're right, Matt. I have said before, if your gun is already running well at 6 lb. or less, you won't notice much benefit. It probably wouldn't be worth the cost to get this hammer. I may lose sales for saying that, but I don't BS my customers. This kit is for those who want the best action available without sending the gun off somewhere for months on end, with associated cost and risks. To me, it's better to have control over how your gun is set up and tune it to your own personal preferences. Plus, you can experiment if you choose to, and find the ideal setup for yourself. It's pretty easy to do your own, once you understand a few basics.

Thanks for the range report and the great pics, Matt! I hope you enjoy shooting that gun for a long time to come.

I'm running about 32 to 36 oz. on my 2 hammer pulls, 2 different 627s. If you didn't work up to 42 oz., you may want to dial back down to 32 and work your way up about 4 oz. at a time. An 1/8 turn of the strain screw is about 4 oz. Every gun is different. The 32 oz. gun starts at 6 lb. DA and goes down to 3 lb. before the hammer falls. The ending trigger pull will be whatever the trigger pull is with the hammer out, because at the end, all you're pulling against is the rebound slide, the same as single action. I cut 2 coils off the 11lb. and it's working well. I also radiused and polished the top corner of the rebound slide to make it return easier. If you have extra springs, you can experiment a little.