k2pichu

If you read the original post, the extractor and springs were changed multiple times as part of the debugging process with no noticeable effect on reliablility. I ended up changing the MPX to a JP5 and it's been 100% flawless since.

I run an SRO on a scalarworks 1.93" mount. I've tried lower mounts but I can trouble getting behind them comfortably. I feel like I have a decent cheek weld still so maybe I just have a long head or something lol.

If you like to tinker, you can try adding some layers of tape/foam to your stock to see if that makes it more comfortable for you. It's cheap and temporary. In the end, there's no way to get around this without doing thousands of reps. Cheek risers are more common in higher optic mounts (1.93/2.26). It might be more helpful to see a picture of what your mount looks like.

If you got $$$, you can get a PRS style stock with adjustable comb height, length of pull, and cant like the magpul PRS Gen3 (https://magpul.com/prs-gen3-precision-adjustable-stock.html). Otherwise you can get any standard Magpul adjustable stock which should have LoP adjustment and buy one of their cheek risers (https://magpul.com/ctr-moe0-50cheekriser.htm) which comes in a few heights. I set my LoP such that my firing hand wrist angle is at a comfortable/natural angle. I run my dot at 1.93" without any cheek risers or comb mods since that's what's comfortable for me. Since you said it yourself, you should probably work on getting a consistent mount position before you start tinkering with your setup. No setup can commensate for a variable stock placement. As long as it's comfortable and consistent for you, that's all that really matters.

I had great luck with CLR on my ex-MPX since it's cheap and effective, but I have the titanium brake on my JP5 and I read that it can cause pitting on/react with titanium so I just use a c4 soak. I bought one of the dremel engravers to chip off the carbon but for some reason I haven't used it.

Do you have to wipe off and reapply the case lube every time you shoot? I normally just soak in c4 and scrape it off but that's a pain. I tried coating the comp in oil/clp one to see if that helped with removal but that didn't do anything.

Google says there's a drum mag, but that's also only 50 rounds. Are you looking for something for USPSA or another game? If your match allows, you can get the magazine couplers and run 2 x 50 sticks for 100 total.

Taran Tactical has +9 for the 35 round "Thril" Mags. Taylor freelance has the +20 Goliath for the 30 round Lancer Mags.

I run Blazer Brass 115 with a 70 locker. It's cheap, reliable, and accurate enough. Supervel 115 worked well in my JP, but my pistol had a few issues with that so I just use Blazer 115 for both for simplicity. Blazer 124 and Supervel 124 grouped slightly worse for my gun so I just stuck with 115's.

I use one of the double alpha magnets and a glock mag for classifier reloads. It has barely any retention which is nice for standing reloads and unloaded starts. I have my kydex mag pouch with a bit more retention so it doesn't fall out when I run around a stage.

I have the Maxamundi Smoke handguard on my JP5. Any standard AR grip/stock should fit.

Are we allowed to carry magazines on magnets in PCC? In the current rulebook, Prod, SS, CO, etc. specifically allow magazines to be attached to magnets, but there is no wording on if magnets are allowed or disallowed in PCC.

Thanks! Have you had a chance to shoot with the original handguard and the carbon fiber one? I was wondering if there was any noticable difference in faster transition or more recoil because of the weight.

Thanks, how do you get 8oz? The smoke composites is 4 oz and the handguard (https://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPHG3-1M-RC) says its only 7 oz for the tube? The barrel nut is 5.6 oz, but I assume you still need that to keep the other handguard on, or does smoke composites come with it's own barrel nut?

For those who got the smoke composites carbon fiber handguard for their jp5, did you get the ar15 version or the pcc version? Also do you need any special tools to install a handguard on the jp5?

What magwell do you guys use for your JP5? Are there any real differences between the Taylor Freelance one and the Techwell one?

"When the magnifier elevation adjustment is turned completely counterclockwise and fired or completely clockwise and fired, putting the point of aim viewed in different positions than the dot/chevron by itself, the point of impact still always hits in the same high grouping area." This sentence is really hard to understand. With the magnifier engaged, treat the combo as one unit and zero from there, using the elevation/windage knobs on the magnifier ONLY. Depending on your dot/glass there could be parallax issues if it's not aligned. Either way, let's say your red dot is zeroed properly by itself without the magnifier. From there, flip up the magnifier, and fire a few rounds. It sounds like the point of impact is 2 inches high from where your dot is aiming at. Adjust your elevation knob to move your red dot to where your shots are hitting. Read your manual to figure out the direction you need to turn the knob and how many MOA each click is. 2 inch high is 4 MOA. You can also just wing it and do trial and error.

I'm not sure what you exactly mean. Assuming your red dot is properly zeroed without magnification, what is your relative POI with the magnifier's elevation at the highest and lowest setting? I.e. X inches low or high at lowest setting, Y inches low or high at the highest setting. Also, is the height of the red dot's and magnfier's optical line the same?

Did you try the video's suggestion of first zeroing your dot without the magnifier, and then zeroing the magnifier after? I don't have experience with the magnifier you're using, but their website says there's adjustments for windage and elevation for your magnifier. Though the fact that your friend has no issues with POI shift indicates it's probably a problem with your shooting instead of the gear.

@Twilk73 I also wanted to add that Ben Stoeger has some videos on his youtube channel where he talks about movement techniques and common mistakes associated with them.

I know this is a subjective question, but what schedule do you use for replacing wear parts and springs? I'm in the same camp that I'd rather preventatively replace worn ports and find issues on my own time instead of at a major match.

@Sfisch0311 Just a heads up, Taran Tactical has base pads for the Thril Mags. https://tarantacticalinnovations.com/tti-ultralight-9-base-pad-for-new-sig-sauer-mpx-9mm-35-round-thril-magazines/ https://tarantacticalinnovations.com/tti-ultralight-short-6-base-pad-for-new-sig-sauer-mpx-9mm-35-round-thril-magazines/

My draw also sucks. I normally shoot PCC and recently started to do CO. I can consistently got a good 1.6 second draw right now. I've gotten around 1.3, but it's either a weak grip or not reproducible for me. I'd like to add that it can be good practice to react to the start of the beep instead of waiting until the end of the beep if that's something you want to work on. I don't do that much since I live in an apartment and don't want to annoy my neighbors too much lol. I get those reps in during live fire practice anyways.

This is similar to what I do. I normally dry fire without a timer to really focus on the movements and doing things right instead of rushing to race the timer and becoming sloppy. For me, I think a par timer is great for measuring your current abilities as well as adding a bit of stress at the end of my dry fire session, but I don't do it for every rep. It's also kind of annoying to listen to...