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Showing results for tags 'sear'.
Found 7 results
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Hey there, I have a small problem with my shadow. If I pull the DA slowly, the hammer will not fall, upon further inspection the sear does not lift high enough and thats what is holding it back. the Hammer travels rearwards just far enough to set the sa claws. If I manually and slowly pull the hammer back, there is interference between the hammer and sear in both DA and SA. It seems like the sear never lifts high enough. the trigger is hitting against the frame (most rearward position) and if i wiggle the trigger or safety, the hammer will fall. A little history on the gun itself: Bought it used with supposedly low (1000) roundcount and I have put ~15k rounds on it plus tons of dryfire -85C trigger - No overtravel screw (it fell out) -11.5lb mainspring (tried 13lb as well) -11lb recoil spring (tried 13lb as well) -light deburing / polishing -grips and sights Any help will be greatly appreciated thanks! John.
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Went to install some new trigger components in my new to me backup stock 2. I got it mostly stock, although it had been reamed. Installed Xtreme hammer, 1pc sear, springs. My issues: The BOLO says that it will only work with gen 2 trigger bar- is this correct? Mine appears to be a gen 1. Do I just order a new one from Stoeger or PD and hope it's a 2? Any benefit to getting the Xtreme bar? The safety won't engage unless the gun is half cocked. Is the 1pc wrong, do I need an Xtreme sear? If so, do I need the Xtreme sear housing as well?
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I have an STI Trubor Open gun with a very light trigger pull... It's almost identical to my two STI Edge Limited guns, except that occasionally the hammer doesn't drop when the trigger is pulled... It seems to happen most often after racking the slide to load a round... It doesn't happen often... Last night I shot four stages without it happening, but it did happen once on unload and show clear... When the issue shows up... I pull the trigger and it feels like the safety is on... If I release and pull the trigger again, the hammer drops... not good... Not sure what could cause that... Maybe not enough pressure on the left leaf of the sear spring? -
So, I know this has been discussed in other threads, but I am having trouble getting a consensus from everyone of which is the best option. I currently have the Henning 4th gen firing pin with the titan hammer with 1 piece sear and extended FPB (0.508" I think) in my Stock II (large frame). At a match last night I was having a bunch of light strikes, until I removed the FPB all together, then the gun ran 100%. The FP was also not reliably blocked by the FPB with the hammer cocked as it should. The light strikes would suggest to me that the FPB is still too short and that I may have to remove a bit of material from the curved surface on the inside of the cut out. (opposite of the tab that actually blocks the FP) Or I may just have to polish it better. My understanding is that the different profile without the flutes of the Henning Gen 3, as well as the extended EG Xtreme FP will both work, but which seems to work better for people? More reliable? Allowing the use of lighter springs and lower trigger pulls? I also love that the Henning firing pins are advertised as being made lighter and lighter, while the EG Xtreme, is advertised as being heavier than the OE part, lol. Anyone have any thoughts on that? -
Hi! I’ve owned a Match full size steel frame 45ACP for two years now. It’s been a great pistol but it took some work to get it there. The first issue I had was light strikes. I tried a variety of ammo but continued to have fail to fire issues. The problem turned out to be the firing pin and the auto safety built into the slide. The safety pin that contacts the body and blocks the firing pin had caused a metal fleck to be sheared off of the pin. Clearing this helped but after a few hundred more rounds the light strikes returned. The ultimate cure was the Henning firing pin. It’s longer, lighter and harder. I was not able to fit it and continue to use the auto slide safety so the stock safety pin, spring and firing pin creating the metal flecks were removed. I have not had a failure to fire since, so I feel very confident in the pistol now. The new Henning firing pin always slides free and easy when I test it with a punch. I also replaced the sear with a Henning sear which using a tip I found on the web was relatively easy. Cutting the shaft of a q-tip the same width as the sear to hold the spring while reinserting the sear was the key. I had to file the arm of the sear that intersects the safety lever to fit it properly. The trigger is crisp and the harder alloy should help keep that crispness longer. One issue I am still dealing with is sighting. I purchased a laser built into a 45ACP round. It projects a spot near were the bullet hits to the far right of the center straight line of the pistol frame. The pistol shoots far right. I clamped it and fired 27 rounds all to the right. I have had to adjust the rear sight all the way to the left to compensate. I can hit leaves floating in the stream 25 yards up and down from my position quickly turning from up to downstream so I feel confident in the pistol is acting as a natural extension of my arm. It hits what you point at. I would like the trajectory of the bullet to be parallel to the frame of the pistol. Would a barrel swap affect this? I have read that slight changes to the exit point at the muzzle and the rifling at that point can have a big impact on the direction the bullet leaves the barrel. Is there a guide to tweaking the barrel end/rifling to adjust the bullets trajectory as it leaves the barrel? With the rear sight adjusted to its extreme left the pistol is sighted but in darkness during quick fire I fall back to using the frame of the pistol to aim. I would like to have the trajectory parallel. There is also the aesthetics to consider. The rear sight looks pretty stupid cranked all the way to the left. I have purchased 7, 10 round magazines. None of them hold ten rounds. After breaking in they still will not fit 10 rounds. If you try the gun will jam as the 10th round is too tight in the magazine. I cut one coil from the magazine spring and shaved the base plate with the Dremel to achieve 10 rounds. The other issue is with laser/light options attached under the frame. All that I have purchased have failed by 50 rounds due to the shock of firing. The accessory rail pealed right through the plastic on one of the cheaper ones. Please recommend a red laser and a red laser/light combo you know will endure the shock of this pistol. Green lasers are ok for daylight but give away your position at night. Thanks! ~Kevin.
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OK, here's the deal. I bought a new .40sw witness match last year. Took it apart, following instructions here, polished up plunger, trigger bar, firing pin and slightly chamfered the firing pin keeper to make racking smoother. All was done just to make it a more enjoyable range toy. Then a buddy invited me to a local steel challenge. I tried an xdm-40, but it's just nowhere near as easy / fun as the match. So, I used that and while it's easier to time me by phases of the moon, it has been a lot of fun. So, what's the issue? Well, I'm uncomfortable speed drawing from the holster in SA. Yeah, I know... Anyway, ebay provided a kit of parts from a 9mm witness P - trigger on the bar, sear assembly, misc pins/springs and a hammer w interrupter and long curved strut. After scratching my head over that, gunbroker had an auction for a kit of new parts bought from Henning to convert a hunter to DA. Not "needing" them I bid and got them fot the oppening bid of $0.01. Finally, to the point. I put the new trigger onto the ebay bar, keeping the original SA assembly intact. Then used the new std hammer and interruptr with the match short strut and factory spring. The new parts were polished prior to installation. Well, the SA trigger is still pretty good, but not as good as before. But the DA is ... not good. Heavy and gets heavier stacking at the end. Yuck. Oddly, inspecting the "P sear assembly to the match showed differences, so they were swapped - yielding a slight improvement. But still sucky. Holding the trigger back, the hammer can be cycled without binding, but that spring is stout. I ordered a hammer spring kit from Henning, along with his firing pin and sight set thinking that will make it all better. But, I keep reading about improvement from changing hammer and sear. So... what amount of improvement is gained from hammer and sear? Is the bulk gain from the hammer spring? Or changes in geometry in the sear and hammer? Is changing to lower power trigger return and sear springs worth the effort? Sorry for the rambling! John
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So my STI Eagle has an Ed Brown Sear installed. I used the Ed Brown sear jig to cut the angles when I installed it 9 months ago. About 5k rounds after I recut the sear because I noticed the sear was rounding off where the sear contacts the hammer. A couple days ago I noticed hammer follow. Probably 6k trigger pulls since the last tuneup. Disassemble and noticed rounding again. I recut the angles nice and clean, hammer follow went away. I don't think I'll have enough material to recut a 3rd time. Is this normal? I thought Ed Brown sears were hardened through, not surface hardened. Are EGW sears any better?
