rpm8300

There will be variance which is perfectly fine - even if you use the same headstamp brass +/- .01 is fine. If you take a box of factory and measure it you'll find the same variance. The variance is not as much of a potential issue as the actual length itself. Some barrels will start rubbing on the bullet at 1.12 or 1.13 with certain bullets , like Molys. If your bullet isn't passing the plunk test at 1.16 but it is at 1.15, I would load 1.13 to be safe.

I think that would be fine although you'll be pretty hot on power factor. Anything 115 or 124 will have more than enough powder to work the piston. You may want to spot check your tappet after a few hundred rounds to see how caked it is. As far as recoil, it will be hotter for sure but that may not make much of a difference to you.

Get a plate cut - the modularity and flexibility will be worth it, especially if down the road you sell it.

Yes, in situations like this where the spirit of the rule was not broken, talk to the match director.

The MPX is a finicky PCC - I ran it off and on for years but couldn't get the consistency I wanted so ended up with a JP5. That being said, I had the most success with 115 or 124 FMJs and a slower powder to get the gas going. 115gn, 1.11 OAL, 4.9 WAC gave me 1140 fps. Good luck with it,

Sorry to hear about your issues; I just started running a 92X Perf in CO; honestly it has fed everything fine - 1.08 OAL 147 FP Blues, 1.15 OAL 147 RN Blues, 1.15 OAL Xtreme Plated RN. I had one fail to extract early on, and no issues extracting/ejecting since I put the Wilson spring in. Maybe post a pic of feed issues here. For mags, I used the OEM mags with the MBX "Ultra Max" Spring & Follower for Beretta and +4 Henning base pad. I also dug out an old old partially rusty milspec Beretta 15 round mag - it also worked fine.

Agree with what has been said - also, if someone was gerryrigging stuff, they probably removed the backplate and took out the extractor plunger, and consequently the extractor and firing pin safety. Make sure the plunger was put back in correctly, i.e. metal first. That won't fix this issue per se but is worth checking.

With my CZ, if the first shot is 15 yards or in, it is a non-issue and I just pull through. Even with an 11lbs main spring, the entire pull is smooth and around 5 lbs. If the target is past 15, I load the trigger to about 8/10th, and then complete the press. After a good bit of practice and shooting DA/SA off and on since 2013, this technique pretty much makes it a single action pull and happens pretty quickly.

N320 is prob your best bet; it works well with literally everything - light and heavy bullets, moly, plated, FMJ. I ran AA2 which is very close to N320 as far as burn rate, how it meters, how it feels. N320 is a tick cleaner and more consistent.

Have you looked at ammo makers that cater for USPSA - i.e. Freedom Munitions?

It will fill at a faster rate than FMJs but it wasn't a huge issue; many folks run Blues for open major.

You will love this new combo - having shot SS and open, I love LO with 9mm 147 gr at 130 PF. Please let us know what you end up doing for parts and labor to make this happen. I bet others would be interested in who can do a value redo of a 2011 -> LO. Thanks, Tom

I think you'll find its like riding a bike; I would shoot lim optics, carry optics or PCC to get you back in the rhythm. Those divisions allow for lots of rounds in the mag so you aren't going through lots of reloads. Aside from the previously mentioned safety DQ guidance, I would go in with a 5 to 1, alpha to non-alpha ratio. This is obviously higher than what you'll find looking at the score cards of top competitors. The logic is, mentally set a goal for hits so you're not getting frustrated or wrapped around the axel with running around the stage or having some crazy stage plan. You can ramp it up dynamically after a couple stages if you feel comfortable. Walking away from the first few matches with botched reloads and mikes will make for a tough mental ramp up back to the sport.

I've tried a few different techniques based on the guidance from expert shooters, e.g Vogel. I've found that for the support hand, it works consistently across guns if I have a contact point between my index finger knuckle and the bottom of the trigger guard. From there, I apply 85% of max strength on the support hand. For my strong hand, I've found that I have the most mobility with my trigger finger if I keep it around 60%. This is the right balance for me between adding some stability for the gun and having the finger feel 'free'.

Hey Joe, no this was just the gun; that mount may cause an issue but the was the holster is, there is some room to have some stuff underneath the rail