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About firewood

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    Finally read the FAQs

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  1. One other to consider is Mark Hartshorne
  2. That was quick thank you.
  3. I have looked and cannot find the answer to this question. Is there a Steel Challenge RO specific cert or do they accept USPSA NROI, some other certification for SC or is it up to the local organization? Thanks
  4. My first year in pistol I shot IDPA. I really wanted to shoot in a sanctioned match and had to classify 3 times to make MM. Once I accomplished that I shot 2 or 3 local matches and the last one before the sanctioned match I got DQed for the 180. Looking back now I realize that I had more experience with the classifier than shooting actual match stages. Anyway the DQ really stung but worse yet I got another DQ at the sanctioned match. Like you OP I put the blame on the dude in the mirror but it was still a bitter pill to swallow as I didn't want to get a bad reputation. I really considered giving up on competition all together. What I did do is I backed way off, switched to a different division, did a lot of dryfire drills with particular emphasis on where exactly the 180 is at all times, and I made a big effort to really slow down and enjoy the time on the range not try to be a star. It was 10 months before I reentered competition, that was two years ago. I now have a totally different outlook on things, a lot of empathy for beginners and I have learned to put speed in it's proper place. I'm getting to the point where I'm actually starting to make some progress.
  5. I would say that a very high percentage of posters here on BE handload their ammo. If your going to compete on a regular basic and do a lot of practicing then it is almost certain you will handload. It's not just about saving money it's about having a good steady supply of accurate and reliable ammo. There is of course an investment and once set up it takes time to make your ammo. It pays in the long run to buy good equipment and give progressive presses serious consideration. Do a lot of research first.
  6. Mikeski makes a very good point regarding your ammo supply and do you handload or buy factory, it really depends on how much you intend to shoot. There is obviously start up costs to handloading. Those costs can vary considerably however you get what you pay for. You may be tempted to think that you can get by with a single stage or turret press to save money or to dip your toes into reloading and ensure that you will actually like reloading. This is actually not a good idea because if your spending hours upon hours at the reloading bench then your less likely to enjoy reloading. The big question in my mind is not are you going to like reloading but rather are you going to like shooting competitions? Rare are those who shoot a lot that don't handload. For years whenever I looked over the start up costs of a Dillon or Hornady progressive press and the other stuff you need it would cause my eyes to glaze over. And when I finally decided that I'm going to get involved in shooting competitions I decided to go the single stage then turret press route. But reality has had it's way with me and within a year I had a progressive press mounted on my bench, which by the way went from being a standard sized workbench to a dedicated handloading bench. So if my experience has any impression on you and you want to send 500+ rounds down range per month then plan on spending some money on your handloading tackle and bench space. And there is something to be said about having a good constant supply of high quality ammo that gives you no surprises when you shoot. Again there is a cost factor but also it takes some time to put together your bench and learn the basics of handloading. If you can find a person who can help you set up and develop your loads this will be a huge help.
  7. I shot in a large well attended falling steel match about a month ago and got hit in the lip by a fragment. I cleaned out my fold up wagon used to transport my gear at the range and there were many pieces of fragments in the wagon. I'm sure this is typical of SC shooters using a wagon.
  8. At that age rimfire is probably the best option. There are several kids shooting steel challenge in the series I shoot in, some shoot pistol and some shoot rifle. For rifle a suggestion is the S&W M&P 15-22 with a dot sight and as mentioned a few extra mags. These are good shooters and the stock is easy to adjust. For pistol the Ruger Mark III or S&W Victory 22 or Browning Benchmark. Either way all you would need in addition to the firearm is a case (you have to take the gun to the line in a case), eyes and ears, extra mags and of course plenty of 22 LR ammo. Lots of fun.
  9. Well now you have gone and done it. Bought a revolver and entered a match. It's over. When I started shooting handguns I thought to myself that I would never go down this road but after two years I broke down and got my first one. My 929 is my second and basically revolver is all I shoot now. As you know a 929 is not a good IDPA gun but it is great for USPSA as long as you keep it iron sight. Steel Challenge is also a great place also for this gun and is where I'm going for now. Any of the 8 shot N frames are good though. The way I have my configured with a dot sight and all of the professional work done on it I have about $2200.00 in it, plus the BMT mooner, 50 of the Revolver Supply Store .35 moon clips and I have around $500.00 in my belt so it can be just as much of a money pit as any gun can be. The sad part of it is I'm not much to look at on the range. But that is not the fault to the equipment. Enjoy your revo and welcome to the club!
  10. This is great advice. After the all the troubles I had with my 686, I decided to have a pistol smith evaluate my 929 before I shot it. My 929 was actually ok as form/fit/finish is concerned. I measured my DA trigger at 14.5 pounds out of the box. I have it down to 7.5 pounds, an obvious huge improvement. I love the gun, have most of the add-ons others have mentioned (Hogue cyl latch, big butts), plus I had other work performed by the pistol smith so it is easy to have $1800.00 into the gun not including moons/moon tools, belt/holster/moon clip holders, optics and misc. Not exactly what I call a "budget" gun.
  11. The OP certainly has a quandary, one that I share but somewhat different situation. I want to use optics on my revo for SC but that would put me in open for USPSA where I would also be scored minor so I would get creamed. So the best solution is to buy another revo, have the action worked to match the one I have now and leave it iron sight. This way I have two guns one for SC the other for USPSA but this what the OP is trying to avoid. And actually I'm not wanting to rush out and buy another gun this year and maybe not next year either because I have bought enough hardware misc stuff for the time being. So my solution to the problem is to use my revo in SC and use an auto loader that I have for production. But there really isn't an easy solution to the problem as presented by the OP that doesn't involve some kind of compromise. My situation is made easier though since in any case I'm not competitive and would prefer to put my efforts into steel over action shooting.
  12. Everything good has already been said. But just to reinforce things, take your time. I'm fairly new to this kind of thing and usually I don't even want to look at my scores after a match because I feel like I'm sooo baaaad that it would be counter productive to know the truth. But I will finally get up the nerve to take a peek. So far I've managed to avoid coming in last and usually there is at least one good shooter that gets DQed. As another poster has said when you are at the bottom you have no where to go but up. You will learn much about this sport at your first match. Just have fun!
  13. Just my personal experience on case gages the DAA 20 cavity is very tight and a tad expensive. The single cavity Lyman is a bit looser and only costs about $20.00 I have not had a single FTF since I started gage every round I make. On the zilla media I mix 50/50 NuFinish with mineral spirits, mix it before you put it into the media and run for 15 minutes before putting the brass in. Helps cut down on the dust and polishes the brass some. If you need some range brass you can buy 6000 pcs 9mm once fired mixed from northeast reloading for $131.00 delivered. Cabelas sells plastic 100 round ammo boxes for about $2.99 Every time I go there I pick up a few now I have too many! Walmart and Harbor Freight sells those approx. 30 cal. plastic plano boxes for about $5.00 these are good for bulk ammo storage. Are you going to shoot major or minor? And welcome to the handloaders club. Once you get started you will lose the excuse of not having any ammo to shoot Ha Ha!
  14. A case gage is nice to have. If you have a Harbor Freight locally their vibratory case tumbler is the least expensive I have found, the Frankford is the next least expensive. The Harbor Freight digital caliber 6" $15.00 ish also inexpensive and the same as many name brand ones that cost twice as much. For tumbler media use crushed fine walnut reptile bedding from the pet shop. I put some nu-car auto polish and mineral spirits into it make sure you have it fully mixed into the media before putting bass into the tumbler. Use a plastic kitchen colander from the dollar store to separate media for now. On edit: If you need to buy handloading books get used at amazon