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Just got my Gun back from Acc-u-Rail


CocoBolo

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Ok, I just wanted to make a post and say that I have now seen a sows ear turned into a silk purse, my daddy was wrong you can do it.

I sent off my Infinity Open gun because it was soo loose that when you leaned the gun side to side it rattled. Now I'm talking .005 up and down front and back and a little more side to side. This gun had been peened before so it was in sad shape. I bought it that way thinking I would put a new slide on it, no go, so I tried the slide on a new frame still not go, I was out of options except using the parts to build a new gun and that was too much money.

I sent it to Doug Jones two weeks ago and it came back today. It was a little too tight so I took a little bore finishing compound to the slide and worked it back and forth till is was smooth. Then I put it together and it would not go. After of couple of hours of methodically checking it turned out the extractor post was pushing the rail out. I put a flat spot on the right place on the ejector post with a file and I got gun. The gun is good and tight better than a new one and its plenty slick with a little CLP for lube.

The barrel lock up improved and it is very nice now as well. I'm shooting a match tomorrow so after the match I will test fire it and check it all out.

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Ok, I just wanted to make a post and say that I have now seen a sows ear turned into a silk purse, my daddy was wrong you can do it.

I sent off my Infinity Open gun because it was soo loose that when you leaned the gun side to side it rattled. Now I'm talking .005 up and down front and back and a little more side to side. This gun had been peened before so it was in sad shape. I bought it that way thinking I would put a new slide on it, no go, so I tried the slide on a new frame still not go, I was out of options except using the parts to build a new gun and that was too much money.

I sent it to Doug Jones two weeks ago and it came back today. It was a little too tight so I took a little bore finishing compound to the slide and worked it back and forth till is was smooth. Then I put it together and it would not go. After of couple of hours of methodically checking it turned out the extractor post was pushing the rail out. I put a flat spot on the right place on the ejector post with a file and I got gun. The gun is good and tight better than a new one and its plenty slick with a little CLP for lube.

The barrel lock up improved and it is very nice now as well. I'm shooting a match tomorrow so after the match I will test fire it and check it all out.

It's kinds fun breathing new life into these old Open blasters :cheers: Let us know how it shoots. I'm headed to the range tomorrow to chrono loads for my new to me "oldie" but hopefully goodie.

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I've had Doug AccuRail two of my guns in the past and he did a great job on both. :cheers: The fact that if the frame/slide fit ever becomes loose again he offers replacement rails .005" oversize which will make them good as new again. I'll have him rail my open guns when they eventually rattle as your did.

CYa,

Pat

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  • 1 month later...

Saw this older thread and had to add a plus 1 for Accurail. About a year ago I went of the deep end and decided to take an older vintage Colt and sent it to Ron Phillips and he suggested Accu rail...after an engraving trip to Mr. French it came back and I was amazeed at how well the accurail works!! It took me 2 days before I broke down and shot the gun (ha) but accurail gives it a different feel then any other 1911 I have shot and the accuracy is outstanding...5 stars

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  • 2 weeks later...

Did you get specific instructions on procedure when cleaning the gun and how to lubricate it? I just learned, and I do hope I get this explained right, that you need to reassemble the rails back into the gun with the slide very clean and dry and then apply some oil, a small amount, to it afterward. FP10 was what was recommended to me. Oil behind the accu-rails before reassembly will change the tolerances enough to make the gun tighter then you want. And hopefully someone will clarify or correct this if needed. Cuz my memory is in need of an overhaul...sometimes! LOL

earl

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Did you get specific instructions on procedure when cleaning the gun and how to lubricate it? I just learned, and I do hope I get this explained right, that you need to reassemble the rails back into the gun with the slide very clean and dry and then apply some oil, a small amount, to it afterward. FP10 was what was recommended to me. Oil behind the accu-rails before reassembly will change the tolerances enough to make the gun tighter then you want. And hopefully someone will clarify or correct this if needed. Cuz my memory is in need of an overhaul...sometimes! LOL

earl

I bought a 9mm Open gun that was built by Doug and the thing runs and runs. The slide is as smooth as silk but it absolutely HAS to be CLEAN when you tear it down to clean it and put it back together. One little piece of gunk between the frame and rail and it will NOT go back together. I tear mine down take the rails off and spray the frame with some shotgun cleaner stuff and the slide with break and parts cleaner. Scrub with an old toothbrush, spray again, repeat until there is NOTHING on the slide or frame. Put the rails back on, a few drops of FP-10 on the frame/rails and a few on the slide. I hold the slide breech end up and let the oil run to the muzzle end. The bottom edge of the slide usually gets a very, very, very thin coating of Tetra synthetic grease. I put the slide on the frame and work it back and forth several times and wipe anything that works its way out off. Then I put the barrel, guide rod, etc back in and reassemble the gun. Once it is all back together I work the slide by hand several times and again wipe any excess off. That process has worked extremely well for me. If you don't have time to fully clean it, I'd suggest not taking it apart. Just a couple drops of thin oil in through the ejection port on the rails and at the back of the frame.

Yours might be different but I'll say it again... If mine isn't CLEAN it won't go back together.

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Thanks for the well written tips, I am sure it will bless others besides me on down the line. I have yet to take one apart so we got a little head knowledge but the practical side is still missing. and... looks like the thread is stripped in your avatar SLM !!! I watched it for about 5 minutes and the bolt don't seem to move much.

earlbob

having morning coffee and a yuk or two.

Edited by earlbob
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If I recall correctly about 10 days. Leave your ejector in the gun then you won't have the issue that I had.

I have another one that is going in with two slides at the end of the season.

Just leave a message and you will get a call back from Mr Jones when he has time. He is hard to get on the phone, but returns calls.

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Did you get specific instructions on procedure when cleaning the gun and how to lubricate it? I just learned, and I do hope I get this explained right, that you need to reassemble the rails back into the gun with the slide very clean and dry and then apply some oil, a small amount, to it afterward. FP10 was what was recommended to me. Oil behind the accu-rails before reassembly will change the tolerances enough to make the gun tighter then you want. And hopefully someone will clarify or correct this if needed. Cuz my memory is in need of an overhaul...sometimes! LOL

earl

I bought a 9mm Open gun that was built by Doug and the thing runs and runs. The slide is as smooth as silk but it absolutely HAS to be CLEAN when you tear it down to clean it and put it back together. One little piece of gunk between the frame and rail and it will NOT go back together. I tear mine down take the rails off and spray the frame with some shotgun cleaner stuff and the slide with break and parts cleaner. Scrub with an old toothbrush, spray again, repeat until there is NOTHING on the slide or frame. Put the rails back on, a few drops of FP-10 on the frame/rails and a few on the slide. I hold the slide breech end up and let the oil run to the muzzle end. The bottom edge of the slide usually gets a very, very, very thin coating of Tetra synthetic grease. I put the slide on the frame and work it back and forth several times and wipe anything that works its way out off. Then I put the barrel, guide rod, etc back in and reassemble the gun. Once it is all back together I work the slide by hand several times and again wipe any excess off. That process has worked extremely well for me. If you don't have time to fully clean it, I'd suggest not taking it apart. Just a couple drops of thin oil in through the ejection port on the rails and at the back of the frame.

Yours might be different but I'll say it again... If mine isn't CLEAN it won't go back together.

You are correct and Doug did send instructions, which I followed and passed on to the new owner. He threw a round in the gun without a primer and got AA#7 in the rails and had to tear it down and clean it. Those gravel in that powder shut it down. He has shot several matches with it now and is in love with it and Acc-u-rail. I use non chloranated brake cleaner and it works great, buy it by the case for $2.20 a can.

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I'm a big fan of brake parts cleaner myself although I don't know if I am buying the non-chlorinated version. It blasts the crud away in a hurry. Is that a 'green' issue or is there another reason, perhaps easier on the finish or something, why you like non-chlorinate?

earl

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Well first let me date myself, I had Krieger do the Accurails in my Para-Ordanance 38 super (gun started as a frame kit, I went Para-Ord because the STI frame kits that guys built guns off of wheren't running, magazine issues.) I learned not to take a fresh gun with rails to a major match. The gun was super accurate and still is to this day. I highly recommend accurails, even more so in an open gun. But as I said make sure you shoot the darn gun a bunch before taking it to a major match, at the 92 Area 6 championship I got to the standards exersize and got to the last 6 shots which where weak hand, I didn't gorrila fist it enough and as tight as the gun was it didn't completely cycle. Well I did get the jam cleared and a second shot off before the timer beeped. What was good for me was even thou I lost 20 points for shots not fired I did well because I only dropped 4 points other than the 20 for unfired shots. So DON'T SHOOT IT IN A MAJOR MATCH TILL YOU GET AT LEAST A COUPLE THOUSAND ROUNDS THROUGH THE GUN!

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