GLOCK trigger question

[JBP55]

I prefer Vanek, Glockworx, Lone Wolf and Ghost to the Glock OEM - connector.

[Sandro]

If you need to stay stock Charlie Vanek offers polished stock connectors on his site. Call him and I'm sure he'll get you going with whatever stock parts you need tuned by him.

http://www.vanekcustom.com/4.html

so what is the trigger pull weight with the Vanek kit?

[JBP55]

If you need to stay stock Charlie Vanek offers polished stock connectors on his site. Call him and I'm sure he'll get you going with whatever stock parts you need tuned by him.

http://www.vanekcustom.com/4.html

so what is the trigger pull weight with the Vanek kit?

That depends on which one you use. The trigger pull weights are listed on each trigger listed on Vanek's site.

[LPatterson]

Charlie's inhouse trigger job on my G21 is 1 1/2#.

[Duane Thomas]

Just got off the phone with Charlie this morning and he's not offering the in-house trigger jobs anymore. Now it's just all trigger kits.

[JBP55]

Just got off the phone with Charlie this morning and he's not offering the in-house trigger jobs anymore. Now it's just all trigger kits.

Which are very good.

[zipper046]

If you need to stay stock Charlie Vanek offers polished stock connectors on his site. Call him and I'm sure he'll get you going with whatever stock parts you need tuned by him.

http://www.vanekcustom.com/4.html

so what is the trigger pull weight with the Vanek kit?

Depends on the trigger package you get AND your Glock. Some Glocks with a trigger kit installed are SUPER SLICK and others may just be SLICK. Either way, they are WAY better than stock or .25 cent job's.

Charlie's Super Trigger Kit in my G35 comes in around 2.5lbs with a short reset and minimal pre-travel.

Actually, I shoot at an indoor range with alot of folks who shoot 1911's and 2011's (STI's, SVI's, etc.) and they say my trigger is about as close to a 1911 trigger as any they've felt and that it is super smooth & crisp.

Flat out.....get a Vanek!

z-

[hueycrew]

My used G35 came with a "+" marked connector (LEO trade in). Installed a Lone Wolf 3.5 with immediate improvement. The take up is still more than I want. Reset seems about the same. The pistol is a work in progress. Production/L10 is in its future. The Glock night sights are still in good shape. I wish the front(Glock) was not a staked style. Hate to rip it off. The glock trigger is much different than my XD9. Trigger job by Rich at Canyon Creek. I'm amazed at how well I shoot the XD now. I'm a little hesitant at more modifications on my G35. It is a really nice pistol as is.

[Duane Thomas]

If you're willing to have the XD worked over, why not the Glock, just out of curiosity?

[JBP55]

Hueycrew, Where are you located? There are many that can improve your Glock trigger.

[hueycrew]

The XD factory trigger was really bad. The glock trigger is different in a good way. I like it almost as it is.

[Duane Thomas]

Kewl.

[zipper046]

My used G35 came with a "+" marked connector (LEO trade in). Installed a Lone Wolf 3.5 with immediate improvement. The take up is still more than I want. Reset seems about the same. The pistol is a work in progress. Production/L10 is in its future. The Glock night sights are still in good shape. I wish the front(Glock) was not a staked style. Hate to rip it off. The glock trigger is much different than my XD9. Trigger job by Rich at Canyon Creek. I'm amazed at how well I shoot the XD now. I'm a little hesitant at more modifications on my G35. It is a really nice pistol as is.

Hueycrew,

to help with the trigger, check out Charlie Vanek's website. Charlie has an ejector housing that is configured to eliminate pre-travel and overtravel. Coupled with a 3.5lb connector and a quick polish job and you'll have a pretty decent trigger.

The other option is a Zev Tech trigger. Can be purchased from Glockworx site. They have pre/over travel adjustments on the trigger itself.

I have heard arguments that the trigger adjustment is better because there may be some flex in the trigger bar with the adjustments on the ejector housing itself. I have not noticed this myself....but I put it out there.

Personally...I'd get one of Charlie's products.

z-

[RAZZ]

Just a little update since I started this thread. I got the LWD connector in the mail and installed it this afternoon. I also did the $.25 trigger job. Just the trigger job with the factory 5.5 connector gave me no noticeable results. Installing the LWD connector helped quite a bit, and I'm happy with it as is. I don't plan on doing anything else to it, except shoot the crap out of it.

Thanks for everyones recommendations.

[Jman]

You're welcome.

[Duane Thomas]

We live to serve at BrianEnos.com.

[TampaShooters]

Just buy a "-" connector and your good to go, no other parts need to be changed unless you want to change them. No need for aftermarket parts.

[RAZZ]

So I picked up a new G34 the other day, and it came with the 5.5 connector installed instead of the 3.5. Is the 3.5 lb connector the only parts difference between the 5.5 and 3.5 lb models, or are there other parts / springs in there that need to be replaced.

PS: I want factory parts--I don't want to run any aftermarket parts.

Thanks.

So I know this is an old thread, but I just wanted to update it, and I wanted to include my initial post to remind me that I should listen to my gut.

I resisted the aftermarket 'anything' urge since I made the initial post, and have been perfectly happy with a completely stock gun (except for the sights) including the factory 3.5 connector. But every match I shot, someone let me play with their lighter trigger, lighter sprung, tricked out GLOCK, and it finally wore me down. So last week I plunked down the $ for a Vanek trigger, and installed it on Thursday. I shot about 200 rounds through it to make sure it worked, which it did...and it felt great. Friday I drove down and shot the Florida State Match with my new super slick trigger. Well, I made it through one stage before my first light primer strike. The next stage was a disaster, with 4 more. Dumbass that I was, I forgot my back-up gun in the hotel room, so between stages I had to scavange a stock spring out of my carry gun. The rest of the match was trouble free with stock parts, and I didn't even notice the stock trigger.

Now, I'm not knocking the Vanek trigger at all--I should have tested it further before using it in a match, and he even supplies a slightly heavier spring to solve just this problem. But I just thought it was funny that I talked myself into getting it, when I don't think I really needed it. So, back to stock for me.

[Jman]

I should have tested it further before using it in a match

Yes. Several laps to set it up before entering a race is a good thing.

Glad you have something that runs now.

[RAZZ]

I should have tested it further before using it in a match

Yes. Several laps to set it up before entering a race is a good thing.

.

Glad you have something that runs now.

Yup...200 wasn't enough, I needed 225 to find out

[Duane Thomas]

What brand of primers were you using when you experienced the misfires?

I don't think the problem is that you went away from a "totally stock" configuration as much as it is that your didn't understand that something like the Vanek trigger works as a system, and part of the system is Federal primers. Any modification to the basic Glock trigger mechanism that involves a lightened firing pin spring is going to come with a price, and the price is that you can no longer pour just any ammo, loaded with any sort of primers, through the gun and expect it to work. Not to say that it can't work 100 percent - as long as you understand that fact.

[SPDGG]

IMHO:

I would try the JAGER Ultra-Light Steel Striker w/Extended Tip + the Reduced Striker Spring.

[RAZZ]

I appreciate the advice, but I guess what I am getting at is that I convinced myself that I needed a 'thing' that I really didn't need. Despite the two awful stages due to my own lack of testing resulting in the light primer strikes, I came really close to winning the FL State match with the stock parts--when pulling the trigger under match stress / conditions, I didn't even notice the difference.

Edited September 21, 2010 by RAZZ

[JBP55]

I appreciate the advice, but I guess what I am getting at is that I convinced myself that I needed a 'thing' that I really didn't need. Despite the two awful stages due to my own lack of testing resulting in the light primer strikes, I came really close to winning the FL State match with the stock parts--when pulling the trigger under match stress / conditions, I didn't even notice the difference.

Send me that Vanek "thing" you do not need.

Edited September 21, 2010 by JBP55

[GForceLizard]

IMHO:

I would try the JAGER Ultra-Light Steel Striker w/Extended Tip + the Reduced Striker Spring.

I've never run the stock striker with a light striker spring. Lightning Strike steel striker in my G22 and the Glockworx striker in my G17. So far so no light strikes, don't jinx me. Federal and Magtech primers.