Revopop Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 I got some slim alumagrips for my new colt CCO, and when I tried to remove the original bushings to replace with the slim ones, the would not come out. I assumed a screwdriver was all I'd need, but apparently there's a little more to it than that. What don't I know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodownzero Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 They might be locktited in. You can try heating them with a small torch and it might break them, or you might have to attack them with vice grips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Look in the mag well and see if they are staked. Might also have been Loctited in which case you will need some heat. Brownells sells an insert tip (#080-434-045) that fits their Magna-Tip screwdriver (or most other interchangeable tip screwdrivers). It fits around the outside of the bushing and has a hollow ground blade that fits the bushing slot inside. Be gentle. Merry Christmas, Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revopop Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 How do I tell if they're staked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 How do I tell if they're staked? Looking inside the magwell at the bushings you will see stake marks that look like were hit with a chisel. Should be 2 or 4 marks on each bushing. If they were staked you will see the marks. CYa, Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revopop Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 Looks like they're staked. What do I do now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 At this point you really do need the bushing removal tool. Trying to use a screwdriver will not only completely bugger the bushings, you may well not be able to get them out at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodownzero Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Wow, I've never heard of staking the bushings in place. I guess you learn something new every day. Mine like to come loose, so I locktited them in. I suppose staking them is a good idea for a factory gun where they're unlikely to ever need removin'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boz1911 Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 You can strip the frame removing staked bushings also, ask me how I know. Brownells makes a kit to fix that problem though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 The easiest way to remove staked bushings is to use a pair of pliers that have a curved, serrated jaw. Factory installed bushings are not normally Loctited. Brownell's collared screwdriver bit works well for installation, but not for removal of staked bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revopop Posted December 23, 2009 Author Share Posted December 23, 2009 OK, I've got a pair of curved pliers, what do I do with them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 Brownell's collared screwdriver bit works well for installation, but not for removal of staked bushings. Why not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calishootr Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 I always thought the bushings were meant to be on the soft side so if one of us(ok, me) got ham-handed with a screwdriver the bushing would give BEFORE trashing the frame(the expensive part) resulting having to weld up and re-tap(yeah, i read a thread on here aboutthat lil nightmare) never heard of staking them in...locktight yes, but in the color BLUE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 Brownell's collared screwdriver bit works well for installation, but not for removal of staked bushings. Why not? Duane, I've had the bushing get just as screwed up with the collared bit as with a regular one. The bushings are soft, and they just sometimes tear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 OK, I've got a pair of curved pliers, what do I do with them? Just grab the bushing with the serrated area, and unscrew. The bushings are fairly soft and will unscrew with a little resistence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 Duane, I've had the bushing get just as screwed up with the collared bit as with a regular one. The bushings are soft, and they just sometimes tear. Hm, interesting. I'd had the exact opposite experience, I've trashed plenty of bushings with pliers and screwdrivers over the the years, but never with the bushing tool. Doesn't mean there's a right or a wrong here, natch. Just different experiences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 Duane, I've had the bushing get just as screwed up with the collared bit as with a regular one. The bushings are soft, and they just sometimes tear. Hm, interesting. I'd had the exact opposite experience, I've trashed plenty of bushings with pliers and screwdrivers over the the years, but never with the bushing tool. Doesn't mean there's a right or a wrong here, natch. Just different experiences. I guess most of the problem bushings were ones that customers tried to tighten, and buggered up. I did a few of them over the years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TISCHLJ Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 The easiest way to remove staked bushings is to use a pair of pliers that have a curved, serrated jaw. Factory installed bushings are not normally Loctited. Brownell's collared screwdriver bit works well for installation, but not for removal of staked bushings. and it wont work with thin bushings. . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TISCHLJ Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 Revo, Brownells has an oversized bushing kit tap and bushing set available. Get it. Get the bushing driver too, as it applies to your needs . . Can't recall if they offer it in a slim bushing kit though . . . Don't forget the proper sized bushing grip screws... . . Something is bound to happen again in the future with a bushing, so the kit is a good investment anyway, and extra bushings are good to have. Don't forget to protect the frame around the bushing with tape of some kind before the bushing removal action . . . Soak the bushings with Kroil for a while. Use a vise grip and to turn them out- they will be ruined. Use the Brownells kit that you should have on hand, if needed,to install new oversized bushings if the threads into the frame are damaged. After you get the original ones out, the threads may very well be stripped or damaged. The Brownells bushing driver is very good, but the one I have won't remove a thin grip bushing- but it is great for installing or removing a regular one as it supports the bushing structure and prevents unwanted slippage. Clean, degrease as applicable and blue locktite the new bushings in . . hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revopop Posted December 25, 2009 Author Share Posted December 25, 2009 (edited) Well, mission accomplished. I started with a pair of small angled needle nose pliers, but they weren't rough enough to get a good grip. Switched to self-adjusting channel locks, and did fine until the last one. It was the top left side. That one was a bear, no room to maneuver with the thumb safety and mag release in the way. I got a couple small scratches on the frame now, but they'll be covered by the grips. The bushings are all destroyed, and the last one is completely mangled, but they're out, the new ones are in, and I really like the thin grips on this gun. I am glad that I'll probably never have to do that again! Thanks for all the help and advice, guys! Edited December 25, 2009 by Revopop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted December 25, 2009 Share Posted December 25, 2009 Grip bushing screwdriver tip and tap are en route. Ship them back when you are done. CYa, Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben b. Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 You don't need the bushing driver to install bushings. Just put a drop of oil on the grip screws, screw them into the bushings, degrease the bushings and frame holes, place a drop of LocTite on the bushing threads, then screw the bushings in using the grip screws. Next day, unscrew the grip screws and install the grips. There's no reason to wreck frame threads removing bushings. If it is staked too tightly, just cut the bushing a bit to relieve the tension and twist it out of there. Cutting the bushing takes a bit of time, but requires no extra money for parts to repair frame threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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