ck1 Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 Hey guys, just picked up an M&P9 full-size and I've heard that they take the exact same recoil springs as a full-size Glock... Can anyone confirm if this is correct? - I already have an extra 13lb ISMI spring for my Glock 17, just would like to know if it'll work in my M&P without having to go through the trial and error process... Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00bullitt Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 I use the same springs and guiderods as my Glocks in my M&P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfie Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 YUP! I've been using G17 springs in my M&P's for a few years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkemxr Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 I just dropped a Glock tungsten captured guide rod with an ISMI spring into my M&P. Works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ck1 Posted December 11, 2009 Author Share Posted December 11, 2009 Well, after fighting a bit to get that end cap off the M&P's guiderod, put on the Glock 17-sized ISMI 13lb spring... Perfecto! Seems to be the right dimensions in every way, and the slide feels better already. Just say "No" to over-sprung 9mm's... Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTinVA Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 In that case can a factory Glock captured recoil spring be used as well, or does it have to be an aftermarket metal guide rod with ISMI flat wound spring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ck1 Posted December 11, 2009 Author Share Posted December 11, 2009 In that case can a factory Glock captured recoil spring be used as well, or does it have to be an aftermarket metal guide rod with ISMI flat wound spring? I used the stock steel M&P guiderod, so it doesn't have to be an aftermarket guiderod that is for sure. Bet a stock Glock recoil assembly might work, but kind of defeats the purpose since a stock Glock 17 recoil assembly has a 17lb spring on it, and the M&P's stock steel guiderod is better than the plastic Glock one anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTinVA Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 Is it better to use a captured spring guide rod on the M&P? Any negatives to using an uncaptured guide rod? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ck1 Posted December 11, 2009 Author Share Posted December 11, 2009 Is it better to use a captured spring guide rod on the M&P? Any negatives to using an uncaptured guide rod? Doesn't matter either way except that a captured recoil spring/guide rod is a hell of a lot easier to get back in after a field strip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfie Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 The captured guide rod is much easier to replace then the uncaptured. The Glock parts are available almost anywhere and unless something has changed I don't know of anyone who makes a captured Tungsten rod for an M&P whereas you can get them for Glock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckaroo45 Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 Anybody tried the 13# spring in the M&P 45? ___________________________________________________ My plan for this stage is "Keep shooting until I hit something" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTinVA Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Are the Glock guide rods the right length for an M&P Pro Series gun or do they only fit the standard service model M&P's? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckaroo45 Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Are the Glock guide rods the right length for an M&P Pro Series gun or do they only fit the standard service model M&P's?Thanks! Don't have a clue Big T. I'm not a Glock type. I'm generally a 1911 or Springfield XDM kinda guy. I bought an M&P 45 3 days ago and I'm working on turning it into a Limited gun. Stumbled on this thread and thot I'd ask the question about recoil springs before I lost sleep over it. ________________________________________________________________________________________ "Life is tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid" John Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RH45 Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Are the Glock guide rods the right length for an M&P Pro Series gun or do they only fit the standard service model M&P's?Thanks! I've swapped the guide rods/spring assemblies between my Glock 19, 34, 35, and my M&P .40, full sized, and 9mm, Pro without any issues, except that when I put the tungsten, guide rod, and 13# recoil spring in my Pro, I really didn't like how easy it would come out of battery. I even tried a reduced power, striker spring with the 13# recoil spring, but, ended up returning my Pro to the stock spring. I think I read that the M&P .45s are different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deernut Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 (edited) I have an M&P9 Pro and I'd like to try some reduced power springs for an IDPA/USPSA load of 147gr bullets with a power factor around 130. From what I read here, I can just get this variety pack at Midway for the Glock 17, 34, etc and unscrew my M&P captive guide rod and add the 13# or the 15# spring and put the guide rod back together (I am assuming that little nut at the end comes off to free the spring). Midway Glock Spring Kit True? Also, surely the striker springs are not also interchangable? Thanks for the help, JIM Edited October 25, 2010 by Deernut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ck1 Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 I have an M&P9 Pro and I'd like to try some reduced power springs for an IDPA/USPSA load of 147gr bullets with a power factor around 130. From what I read here, I can just get this variety pack at Midway for the Glock 17, 34, etc and unscrew my M&P captive guide rod and add the 13# or the 15# spring and put the guide rod back together (I am assuming that little nut at the end comes off to free the spring). Midway Glock Spring Kit True? Also, surely the striker springs are not also interchangable? Thanks for the help, JIM The recoil springs are the same, they work great. Skip the variety pack IMO and just get a 13#, it'll work great with loads 120ish-140pf (you could try an 11# but lots of us have experienced weak lock-up and the extra 2# is better for feeding reliability anyways). I'm not sure if the striker-springs are exactly identical as far as size/weight, but a Glock striker-spring will fit and work perfectly in an M&P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 I have an M&P9 Pro and I'd like to try some reduced power springs for an IDPA/USPSA load of 147gr bullets with a power factor around 130. From what I read here, I can just get this variety pack at Midway for the Glock 17, 34, etc and unscrew my M&P captive guide rod and add the 13# or the 15# spring and put the guide rod back together (I am assuming that little nut at the end comes off to free the spring). Midway Glock Spring Kit True? Also, surely the striker springs are not also interchangable? Thanks for the help, JIM Jim, My M&PPro functions perfectly using faccoty setup with 147 gr. FMJ's at 900 fps using either 3.4 gr. Titegropu, 3.5 gr. Bullseye or 4.1 gr. WSF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deernut Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 (edited) My earlier post: "I have an M&P9 Pro and I'd like to try some reduced power springs for an IDPA/USPSA load of 147gr bullets with a power factor around 130. From what I read here, I can just get this variety pack at Midway for the Glock 17, 34, etc and unscrew my M&P captive guide rod and add the 13# or the 15# spring and put the guide rod back together (I am assuming that little nut at the end comes off to free the spring)." My assorted pack of Glock springs came in so I wanted to install a reduced power spring. This pack doesn't have a 13# -- it has #15, #14, #12. I took the nut off the M&P captive recoil spring, removed the stock flattened recoil spring (coiled flat steel not wire), then placed the 14# Glock 17 recoil spring on the guiderod (without the end nut) and reassembled the pistol. Is this how I'm supposed to do it? The M&P guide rod without the end nut just holds the uncaptive Glock 17 spring on the rod? It feels lighter, but seems to feel rougher as I work the slide (I think I feel the spring bunching up). If I want a reduced strength captive recoil spring for this M&P do I buy a captured Glock spring and put my 14# spring in it? Actually I probably need to buy a 13# spring now. Thanks for the help, JIM Edited November 10, 2010 by Deernut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ck1 Posted November 10, 2010 Author Share Posted November 10, 2010 My earlier post: "I have an M&P9 Pro and I'd like to try some reduced power springs for an IDPA/USPSA load of 147gr bullets with a power factor around 130. From what I read here, I can just get this variety pack at Midway for the Glock 17, 34, etc and unscrew my M&P captive guide rod and add the 13# or the 15# spring and put the guide rod back together (I am assuming that little nut at the end comes off to free the spring)." My assorted pack of Glock springs came in so I wanted to install a reduced power spring. This pack doesn't have a 13# -- it has #15, #14, #12. I took the nut off the M&P captive recoil spring, removed the stock flattened recoil spring (coiled flat steel not wire), then placed the 14# Glock 17 recoil spring on the guiderod (without the end nut) and reassembled the pistol. Is this how I'm supposed to do it? The M&P guide rod without the end nut just holds the uncaptive Glock 17 spring on the rod? It feels lighter, but seems to feel rougher as I work the slide (I think I feel the spring bunching up). If I want a reduced strength captive recoil spring for this M&P do I buy a captured Glock spring and put my 14# spring in it? Actually I probably need to buy a 13# spring now. Thanks for the help, JIM Think most of us use the ISMI flat-wound springs, order a 13lb one for a Glock 17 and it'll work captive on you M&P's rod, you'll be GTG. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfie Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 My earlier post: "I have an M&P9 Pro and I'd like to try some reduced power springs for an IDPA/USPSA load of 147gr bullets with a power factor around 130. From what I read here, I can just get this variety pack at Midway for the Glock 17, 34, etc and unscrew my M&P captive guide rod and add the 13# or the 15# spring and put the guide rod back together (I am assuming that little nut at the end comes off to free the spring)." My assorted pack of Glock springs came in so I wanted to install a reduced power spring. This pack doesn't have a 13# -- it has #15, #14, #12. I took the nut off the M&P captive recoil spring, removed the stock flattened recoil spring (coiled flat steel not wire), then placed the 14# Glock 17 recoil spring on the guiderod (without the end nut) and reassembled the pistol. Is this how I'm supposed to do it? The M&P guide rod without the end nut just holds the uncaptive Glock 17 spring on the rod? It feels lighter, but seems to feel rougher as I work the slide (I think I feel the spring bunching up). If I want a reduced strength captive recoil spring for this M&P do I buy a captured Glock spring and put my 14# spring in it? Actually I probably need to buy a 13# spring now. Thanks for the help, JIM Think most of us use the ISMI flat-wound springs, order a 13lb one for a Glock 17 and it'll work captive on you M&P's rod, you'll be GTG. Thats what I do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deernut Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 That makes sense, thanks for the help. JIM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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