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Deernut

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Everything posted by Deernut

  1. Since we're talking about single stack and not worried about fitting different size magazines, why on earth would the shims not be the right size the first time. Has anyone dealt with this company or did I run into someone with a band saw in his garage? Thanks, JIM
  2. I ordered one 1911 shim for my CR Speed Versa mag pouch from Shooters Connection and love it. I wanted 4 more but they were out so I ordered 4 from Powerfactor Shooting thinking they probably were the same source. What was odd was that the Powerfactor shims came with shims to shim the shims. Maybe they ordered the wrong thickness nylon stock and are trying to get rid of it, but when I ordered 1911 shims I assumed they would fit a standard 1911 mag. Their advertizement for the shims doesn't give any indication that the shims are not the right thickness and have to be shimmed some more. Even the holes are not centered. When I tried to match up the shims with the supplied shim shims, the holes don't line up and the edges don't line up. I emailed Sean Gaines at powerfactor but no response. Has anyone else had any experience with this brand of shims? I'm astounded at the amaturish workmanship, false representation, and then lack of response by the company.
  3. Aaaahhh. OK. Thanks, I'll get it off the bench and get to it. JIM
  4. I did call Dillon before they closed today and the tech advised me to unbolt the arms to see if the stickiness was just the picvot points on the arms and it is not - they move freely. He also suggested that maybe the main pin that the arm pivots on below the ram might be sticking but it isn't -- that swings freely. The stickiness seems to be on the sides of the square ram. The wave bushings are faily new (maybe 3000 rds). I definately need to get the ram out, but I have the arm disconnected and the whole shell plate off and can't find the "brass bolt in the frame that indexes the plate" as Ssanders224 suggests. Something (that bolt apparently) is keeping the ram from sliding out the bottom. I don't see an exposed bolt to do anything with. If I can get the ram out I'm sure I can see what is sticking. Any help on how to complete the dissassembly? I'd like to try to get it fixed this weekend or at least know what to ask Dillon for on Monday. Thanks, JIM
  5. That makes sense - thanks. Any other tips welcome. It started to stick badly over the course of only the last 15 rounds (out of 100 I loaded last night). Since it happened so rapidly, I am thinking it is not a problem with the wave bearings (unless something became crushed) but something getting jammed in there. Still, I need to get in there and look. THX JIM
  6. I'm surprised I can't find this anywhere on the 'net. I think I need to replace the wave bearings (white corner guides) on my Dillon Square Deal B and not sure the most efficient way to get to them. I know my way around the machine, but don't want to disassemble a lot of stuff that doesn't need to be taken apart. Anyone know the best way to get into those and replace them? I know I can send it to Dillon (or drop it off), but I have a major match next weekend and there is a chance I can fix it by disassembling and cleaning - at least I can look and see if it really is the wave bearings. Thanks, JIM
  7. That makes sense, thanks for the help. JIM
  8. My earlier post: "I have an M&P9 Pro and I'd like to try some reduced power springs for an IDPA/USPSA load of 147gr bullets with a power factor around 130. From what I read here, I can just get this variety pack at Midway for the Glock 17, 34, etc and unscrew my M&P captive guide rod and add the 13# or the 15# spring and put the guide rod back together (I am assuming that little nut at the end comes off to free the spring)." My assorted pack of Glock springs came in so I wanted to install a reduced power spring. This pack doesn't have a 13# -- it has #15, #14, #12. I took the nut off the M&P captive recoil spring, removed the stock flattened recoil spring (coiled flat steel not wire), then placed the 14# Glock 17 recoil spring on the guiderod (without the end nut) and reassembled the pistol. Is this how I'm supposed to do it? The M&P guide rod without the end nut just holds the uncaptive Glock 17 spring on the rod? It feels lighter, but seems to feel rougher as I work the slide (I think I feel the spring bunching up). If I want a reduced strength captive recoil spring for this M&P do I buy a captured Glock spring and put my 14# spring in it? Actually I probably need to buy a 13# spring now. Thanks for the help, JIM
  9. Powder = Solo1000 Bullet = Bear Creek 9mm Moly 147gr flat point OAL = 1.130 Temp at Chrono = 74-76 degree F M&P Pro (5") XD9 Tactical 5" (both guns ran the same velocities BTW) I was told maybe the short OAL was contributing to the higher velocities so I loaded them to 1.130" OAL and tried again but everything between 3.3-3.5gr was well above the 125PF. I kept the OAL at 1.130 and loaded some at 2.8, 3.0, 3.2gr of Solo1000 today. I took all of the chrono data from this effort and put it on one scatter diagram. It shows that for my set up, I need 3.2gr Solo1000 to stay above the PF consistently. I think I am getting away with less powder because of the faster Moly bullets. Thanks for the help! JIM
  10. That's what I thought - I should not be getting these velocities. I know I am not over-crimped, I wonder if the bullet seating depth is involved. I forgot to mention the temp - it was actually very very plesant - around the mid 70s F. Definately not at all warm and not chilly at all in a T-Shirt (how's that for scientific temperature data to chrono with). A smart person would bring a thermometer but I was trying to squeeze in the chrono session between a business meeting and a steel match. Is Solo1000 reverse temperature sensitive? Sounds like it from your question. Lot #: The white sticker on the bottom says "1877" and then "5 4 09" below it. BTW, I was shooting with Bill Barron who took first at IDPA Nationals in ESP SS. Thanks, JIM
  11. I am working up a 9mm load with 147gr moly coated truncated cone lead bullets over Solo1000. I loaded several batches - all to 1.10" OAL with a crimp of 0.375" I used 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, & 3.6gr of Solo1000 for my 4 batches to test (Chrono). I fired 8-10 rounds for each chrono test. Using an XD9 Tactical (5") I started with the 3.3gr and the chrono showed a range of 894.8 - 932.9fps ave.= 914fps. Using 3.4gr of Solo1000 out of the same gun I got 942.5 - 972.7fps, ave.= 959.3fps. I tried a brand new S&W M&P9 Pro with the 3.3gr of Solo1000 and got 880.7 - 932.9fps, ave.= 909fps These velocities seem higher than I would have expected given the other velocities posted on this and other forums. I expected to need about 3.5 - 3.6gr to reach the IDPA power factor of 125 (needing 851fps with this bullet). I did not test the 3.5 and 3.6gr batches because I was in a hurry to get to a steel match that night and didn't need to be that far above the power factor. Any insights? Anyone else getting these kinds of velocities out of just 3.3gr of Solo1000? I'm not sure there's room/air in the case after I seat these big bullets - could it be an issue of powder compression? My OAL is a little shorter than I read others are using for 9mm, but I did it because I had a different bullet that was too long at 1.15" in another XD9. Even at this relatively short length, the first round of a mag would not go into battery in the M&P Pro when I dropped the slide closed. All subsequent rounds cycled fine, but the truncated nose of the first bullet snagged on the feed ramp and stuck the slide partially open. I could slap the back of the slide and it would go into battery. I'm not sure I want to seat any deeper so I'm looking for advice. Thanks, JIM
  12. I have an M&P9 Pro and I'd like to try some reduced power springs for an IDPA/USPSA load of 147gr bullets with a power factor around 130. From what I read here, I can just get this variety pack at Midway for the Glock 17, 34, etc and unscrew my M&P captive guide rod and add the 13# or the 15# spring and put the guide rod back together (I am assuming that little nut at the end comes off to free the spring). Midway Glock Spring Kit True? Also, surely the striker springs are not also interchangable? Thanks for the help, JIM
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