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Holster flop?


Phalanx

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I've just recently purchased a B/T DOH holster for use this summer for first attemps at shooting Prodction Class. However, for the past week I've tried everything I can think of to STOP the holser from "flopping around." I've used an older inner/outer Safariland belt combo...tried putting spacers between the belt part and the DOH part...tried cutting myself in half by pulling the belt TIGHT...and nothing seems to work. I'm considering using a regular old Uncle Mikes kydex holster with NO drop or cant. It seems rock steady and pretty fast...I just have to raise my shoulder up more than I'd like "to clear kydex!" Before I return the B/T DOH I thought I'd consult the experts here on the web. So...for all you Production shooters using the B/T DOH...do you have any secrets to keep the holster rock steady??? I've adjusted the tension screws to the point where they almost fall out...no help. I'm running a Glock 34 if it makes a difference.

I'd appreciate any comments...

v/r

Phalanx

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I put a piece of velcro on the inside of the holster - it is on the part of the holster that ends up between the inner and outer belt - so that it velcros to the inner belt. It seems to hold it pretty steady. I also wear my inner belt pretty tight because I don't like my belt to be able to move.

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the blade-tech stingray attachment has a little shim that you have to adjust for the width of the belt you are using. Do you have the shim up tight against the belt? When I use my DOH with my Double Alpha belt it doesn't move AT ALL.

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Sounds like the gun is hanging up in the holster...is that the issue?

I had the same thought. I use the BT DOH for Production, Revolver, and soon Limited, and I've only ever had that problem when my draw technique was poor.

Edited by Revopop
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...to STOP the holser from "flopping around." I've used an older inner/outer Safariland belt combo...tried putting spacers between the belt part and the DOH part...tried cutting myself in half by pulling the belt TIGHT...and nothing seems to work.

I'm guessing that "flopping" means that when you draw, the holsterflips up with the gun. Try a CR Speed belt. I find that the Safariland belt is not stiff enough. You may also want to loosen the tension screw holding the pistol in the holster.

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If I understand you correctly, the holster is tilting as you draw. (Bottom of holster coming up and out to the side)

It feels like the holster is flopping and the gun is 'binding'.

I experienced something similiar when I first started using a BT DOH.

1. You must have a rock solid double belt, firmly attached around your waist and to itself. A CR Speed, or DAA works great, I'm not sure how stiff your "old Safariland" is.

2. The belt loop shim should be adjusted correctly...that shim isnt what its cracked up to be, so reinforce it with zip ties.

Some creative use of velcro can help the holster stay in place. BTW, the velcro is very helpful on the back of your mag holders too, but thats a different thread.

3. This is the most important part...refine your draw. I found when I started using the DOH that I was tugging 'out' on my draw instead of just up. I've seen several new shooters have the same experience. Its subtle, something you wont notice until you really pay attention. A few dry fire sessions will probably cure you.

Edited by The Antichrome
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I've just recently purchased a B/T DOH holster for use this summer for first attemps at shooting Prodction Class. However, for the past week I've tried everything I can think of to STOP the holser from "flopping around." I've used an older inner/outer Safariland belt combo...tried putting spacers between the belt part and the DOH part...tried cutting myself in half by pulling the belt TIGHT...and nothing seems to work. I'm considering using a regular old Uncle Mikes kydex holster with NO drop or cant. It seems rock steady and pretty fast...I just have to raise my shoulder up more than I'd like "to clear kydex!" Before I return the B/T DOH I thought I'd consult the experts here on the web. So...for all you Production shooters using the B/T DOH...do you have any secrets to keep the holster rock steady??? I've adjusted the tension screws to the point where they almost fall out...no help. I'm running a Glock 34 if it makes a difference.

I'd appreciate any comments...

v/r

Phalanx

sounds like the problem is the belt is just not stiff enough....someone I shoot with had troubles with almost every holster they tried with the safariland belt...switched to rescomp (CR speed) and problem went away. Try a few different belts from people you shoot with...especially a cr speed or a very thick duty belt that has an aluminum/hard plastic core. What I know from experience in training people to use holsters is that the belt must fit the holster and there is almost no such thing as too stiff a belt. Personally for range use I prefer cr speed holster and belt combo, but any matching holster/belt combo should do it. seen plenty of guys with safariland belt and holster combos without issue...maybe your combo just does not match well.

I used a safariland duty belt and holster on the job and it worked just fine...but that was a matching duty gear set.

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I know of two people who have taped a block of wood or carboard to the bottom of the holster...inbetween their leg and the holster. This allows the holster and gun to be vertical. I asked the GM shooter why the tape and shim, and he said that it keeps the gun vertical and does not stick out like John Wayne's sixgun.

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The design of the Bladetech is quite good, however. I had a similar problem and unless I loosened the holster to the point that i had 0 screws left in the holster it still would grab slightly.

If you look at the Bladetech DOH at the point it anchors to the belt( any belt, Safariland, CR, JCPenney) the problem i found was not the belt attachment, but the Drop Offset portion. The retention screws are quite stout at the TOP 2 inches of the belt attachment, but the bottom 2 inches are left to the stiffness of the polymer material( Take YOUR Bladetech and pull up on it , away from your belt and you will see where it separates). I have taken a zip tie and placed it BELOW the belt size adjustment bar, cinched it down aggressively, cut off the excess and it reduced the "FLOP" that can be associated. I also have used this technique on the 6 in Bladetech with Great Results. Of Course insuring that the path of the draw is in correct alignment, etc is important also, but this is what I have used and found it effective.

T-VS

Edited by WINGMEN10
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All...

My, oh my, what a difference a few "plastic handcuffs" can make!!! I took the advice of several posters and wire-tied the holster (1) to the belt and (2) the DOH bottom part to the holster itself. WOW...NOW IT'S ROCK SOLID!!! And...I will admit that my draw "could" use a little refining! ha ha ha Seems that I am twisting the gun on the draw and that is preventing a smooth release.

It's been 20 years or so since I last competed in this sport (the single stack compensated .38 Super with a dot was the hot lick back then). Since I'd rather not spend my retirement fund on a "newer ultimate blaster" I thought that I'd try Production this time around. Picked up a Glock 34, the B/T DOH and a couple of mag holders...thought I could recycle my old Safariland inner/outer belt...it's still pretty stiff (unlike me) and now with the addition of the wire-ties, I think it'll work just fine.

I do want to thank each and every poster who answered my question and shared their experiences, trials and tribulations with me. THAT is what makes this fourm EXTRA SPECIAL. Everyone helping everyone else.

THANK YOU ALL AGAIN.

v/r

Phalanx

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