Model19 Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 I noticed some inconsistent crimps at the range the other night. That got me thinking about checking my brass length. I'm talking .38spcl here. I hate to admit it, but I've been lazy and never check that. It was mandatory when I shot lots of .223 Highpower, but these wheelguns and minimum PF loads don't beat up brass like that so I've pretty much ignored it. How often do you guys check that? Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chemepharmd Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 Don't know about anyone else, but I never check my length on pistol brass. It's never been a problem, but I don't load much .38 Special. You are correct that rifle brass is a different story, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 Ordinarily, handgun brass does not ever need to be trimmed. Unlike rifle brass, handgun brass does not lengthen from being fired, it will actually become slightly shorter from repeated reloading and firing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boats Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 If you are using range pick up brass there could be an advantgae in having all the same leingth. As you say it affects the crimp. But considering the accucary standard we need for action pistols sports and fact you are going to loose brass most matches, It Ain't worth the trouble. I do pitch anything that looks wrong crimped. See it happen more than a few times may try to seperate that headstamp but that's about all. Boats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Storm52 Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 I've loaded 38/357 for years, along with 45 acp. I've never trimmed brass. I've found that you have to pitch the multiple fired long before any length issues crop up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model19 Posted June 7, 2009 Author Share Posted June 7, 2009 I found that a few rounds had not crimped as I like and were hanging up slightly on reloads. That's why I asked. If I get bored some day I'll check and trim a bunch. .45ACP headspaces off the case rim. When I used to load that checking length was stressed as important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 A taper crimp is more forgiving on brass that is slightly different in length. I taper crimp all .38, .44, and .45 target type loads, and roll crimp the magnum ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 .45ACP headspaces off the case rim. When I used to load that checking length was stressed as important. In theory it headspaces off the case mouth. In the real world it usually headspaces off the extractor or the moonclip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 .45ACP headspaces off the case rim. When I used to load that checking length was stressed as important. In theory it headspaces off the case mouth. In the real world it usually headspaces off the extractor or the moonclip. Tom is exactly correct. Most people don't realize that most 1911 .45 ACP pistols will generally feed and function with .45 GAP ammo. Obviously, the extractor hook is actually what is headspacing the cartridge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snertley Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 .45ACP headspaces off the case rim. When I used to load that checking length was stressed as important. In theory it headspaces off the case mouth. In the real world it usually headspaces off the extractor or the moonclip. Tom is exactly correct. Most people don't realize that most 1911 .45 ACP pistols will generally feed and function with .45 GAP ammo. Obviously, the extractor hook is actually what is headspacing the cartridge. Thats why the other week while sorting pick up brass at the range we found about 6 9mm cases that had been fired in a .40 cal. firearm. I was glad I wasn't around who ever was shooting it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boats Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 (edited) Headspacing off the extractor is not uncommon in Brownings designs. The Low Wall Winchester, Brownings first sucessfull commerical design, headspaces off the extractor too. It's one of the reasons Low Walls won't shoot with other single shots like the Ballard or Stevens at the highest level of accucary. Automatic Pistols it's not important. Boats. Edited June 8, 2009 by Boats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasond Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 I've found big differences in length (.015") and pressure between headstamps, but not much variance within them. Sticking Winchester cases in .357 pointed this out. I've sorted everything, but I never lose a case. I trimmed my .357s for a consistent crimp. Didn't make a bit of difference, except I don't have to reset the crimp die between brands of brass. I'd pick up a taper crimp die, and if you get bored, sort them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
professor Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 IMHO, Taper crimp is the way to go, for both 38 spl and 45 ACP. I used to roll crimp RNL bullets, and as the case mouth closed on the bullet, the edge of the case would shear off a really thin ring of lead as it bit into the bullet. Also, variation in the diameter of the shells and/or bullets would cause some bullets to stop before making it to full depth in the shell. In some cases, if the bullet was set just a bit off axis, the shell casing would slice into the bullet and ruin the round. With taper crimp, you'll establishing bullet depth consistently, then squeezing the bullet as the shell mouth is compressed uniformly around the bullet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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