earplug Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Went to our first of the season steel shoot match and my S&W 625-8 started choking. When I got home and checked it out the strain screw had worn down into a little mushroom looking thing. This has happened to me twice prior. I should be looking at it more. Of course as it wears the DA pull gets lighter so it feels nicers until it won't pop a primer. My older none stainless guns never had this problem. Of course I never built a federal primer only gun before. Do other people get this problem about once a year? Is there a simple solution, polish the contact area of the screw and spring? Get a none stainless screw? Is there a aftermarket screw that is harder and lasts longer? Or do I just mark on my calender that its time to check and replace the screw? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 This always stirs people up but I toss the stock strain screw and use a socket set screw (8-32 thread) and 290 Loctite. Notch the head slightly so you can repeat the setting. 290 Loctite wicks into threads once the part is assembled, holds just fine and the screw is useable to fine tune mainspring tension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey357 Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Tom's approach seems to work the best with the "Ribbed" Wolff Mainsprings...and it is very REPEATABLE, too...I'm CHEAP, so I buy the set screws at "Home Despot" ...It DOES SEEM that Smith Stainless Mainsping Tension Screws are SOFTER than the BLUE ones, doesn't it??? Wonder why that is???....mikey357 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 When I got home and checked it out the strain screw had worn down into a little mushroom looking thing. Hmmmm.....how often do you remove the strain screw? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Tom's approach seems to work the best with the "Ribbed" Wolff Mainsprings... Hmmmm....why would the brand of mainspring make any difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earplug Posted April 9, 2009 Author Share Posted April 9, 2009 Hmmmm.....how often do you remove the strain screw? I'm guessing its been about eight months since I had it out. Haven't had any issues with gun, so it stays together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20nickels Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 I also use the Home Depot 8/32 set screw. I have yet to shoot a season with it though it looks solid. My only concern is it eating into the spring, but nobody that uses them has reported this problem. This is perhaps why S&W uses screws made of Play Doh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 I also use the Home Depot 8/32 set screw. I have yet to shoot a season with it though it looks solid. My only concern is it eating into the spring, but nobody that uses them has reported this problem. This is perhaps why S&W uses screws made of Play Doh? Socket set screws are normally grade 8. HARD. Just round the (sharp) tip a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boats Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Socket heads ? Not to drift the thread but, couple of years ago I bought a 25-5 45 LC 4 inch out of state, Looked at it briefly and had it shipped. On receiving the revolver noticed all it's screws were socket head, no slots at all. Am sure it did not come from S&W that way, gun is absolutely stock otherwise and appears not to have been fired much at all. And works very well too. Any ideas on what might have gone on ? Boats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Socket heads ?Not to drift the thread but, couple of years ago I bought a 25-5 45 LC 4 inch out of state, Looked at it briefly and had it shipped. On receiving the revolver noticed all it's screws were socket head, no slots at all. Am sure it did not come from S&W that way, gun is absolutely stock otherwise and appears not to have been fired much at all. And works very well too. Any ideas on what might have gone on ? Boats Aftermarket socket head sideplate screws were (and maybe still are) available. I'm not sure if they ever existed for the plunger style yoke screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 When I got home and checked it out the strain screw had worn down into a little mushroom looking thing. Hmmmm.....how often do you remove the strain screw? This comes under the heading of another thing I have never had a problem with in over 30 years shooting wheel guns. My spare strain screws are blue and never been needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Aftermarket socket head sideplate screws were (and maybe still are) available. I'm not sure if they ever existed for the plunger style yoke screw. Yep, Power Custom sold those (and still might, for all I know). I have them on a 4" M13 I have in my little bedroom vault. I don't think they made one for the new-style yoke screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
357454 Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Went to our first of the season steel shoot match and my S&W 625-8 started choking. When I got home and checked it out the strain screw had worn down into a little mushroom looking thing. This has happened to me twice prior. I should be looking at it more. Of course as it wears the DA pull gets lighter so it feels nicers until it won't pop a primer. My older none stainless guns never had this problem. Of course I never built a federal primer only gun before. Do other people get this problem about once a year? Is there a simple solution, polish the contact area of the screw and spring? Get a none stainless screw? Is there a aftermarket screw that is harder and lasts longer? Or do I just mark on my calender that its time to check and replace the screw? I have never experienced this on any of my Stainless S&W revolvers, when I shorten a strain screw I chuck it in my drill press and use a file to shorten it, I then add a slight radius to the outer edge. Also when I install the strain screw I tighten then up so they do not move, I can see where they could wear if the strain screw is not tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 I've run into the same problem but mostly with my 617. It needed a longer strain screw and the socket head 8/32 worked great. I also use the socket heads in my 627 and use blue lock tite. I never worry about it coming loose during a match and I can't remember when I took the screw out when doing a complete cleaning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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