Redding GRX Sizing Die

[ist45]

How on earth did that happen?

I've put a whole bunch of brass through my .40 Lee FCD die, that is my YouTube video BTW. I've never had one stuck. I've run some NASTY bulged brass through it with never a single problem. Oh well . . . .

spencerhut,

what did you use as a "pusher" to push the brass through the FCD?

thanks in advance...

sorry, wasnt paying much attention to the video, it's from a bullet sizing kit...

Edited August 1, 2009 by ist45

[CocoBolo]

Sold my U die after I got the G-RX. Have run about 3000 cases thur it shot more than 1000 of those with no issues. All were from the reject bucket that the UDie could not handle.

Spray some one shot in a plastic bag throw the brass in shake it around run it thru the G-Rx put it back in the tumbler to get rid of the One Shot, toss it in the case feeder and load it.

I still drop check every round after loading, thats when you will find one that has split or missed getting a primer etc.

Now that my brass isn't fat on one end I can get one more round in the mag, nice to pony up with 22.

In 38 Super Comp I use a CasePro 100, cost $400 used, G-Rx seems to work just as well for 40 and its a whole lot cheaper. If you have not noticed 40 brass is getting harder to find, eveyone is reolading and not much once fired hitting the ground.

[Pezco]

I bought a GR-x in the Spring and have run several thousand rounds through it with out a problem until recently I have noticed the die is scratching the brass. I'll have to call Redding about the issue.

I did a test with 1,000 rounds and determined that I do not need to gauge check my loads before shooting if I run them through my GR-x.

[Ray_Z]

Still waiting for this in .45... Is it undersize at all for better neck tension?

I got bad news for you, I already asked the people at Redding when they would be coming out with this in 9mm and 45. Here's the reply I got...

Hi Ray.

Thank you for using Redding Reloading Equipment. We’re glad to hear that you like your new G-Rx die. Believe it or not, the 9MM LUGER and 45 ACP cases have slight rims on them. This means you can’t use a push-thru die.

Regards,

Patrick T. Ryan

Redding Reloading Equipment

1089 Starr Road

Cortland, NY 13045

They almost broke my heart. I've got a half bucket of 9mm Glocked brass.

A couple of squirts of Dillon lube and they go through the die easy as pie.

[Braxton1]

Since you're probably GRX-ing brass that has either NOT been tumbled or has just come out the tumbler, abrasives are getting into the die and sticking in the steel. Hence, the scratched brass.

I've had to pull mine apart a few times. I just run a Dremel felt polishing bob down into the die and polish it out.

I do wish that Redding would make that ring out of carbide... That would eliminate this issue.

[Pezco]

Bruce,

I used that exact method and the scratches keep coming back. I am using tumbled and cleaned brass so I'm calling Redding to see if they will exchange the die.

[Braxton1]

Bruce,

I used that exact method and the scratches keep coming back. I am using tumbled and cleaned brass so I'm calling Redding to see if they will exchange the die.

Please mention the carbide thing to them when you call!!! Maybe they'll improve it. I'd pay 20 bucks more for it, if it'd last longer and not scratch up the brass so badly.

[cdrissel]

I have one of the 40 Gizmos. It works well but the only issue I have is this.

Since you have to push the brass up through the Lee die mouth first it causes the "glock bulge" to be pushed down and in to wards the web of the case.

This may not be an issue, but the brass has to go some were.

My solution was to turn the head of a 3/8" ejector pin (injection mold part) to fit into a shell holder slot. Then cut it to the length needed to push the brass all the way through the Lee die (now by itself) base first (upside down). The end of the ejector pin must have a radius on it to fit the web of the case.

With this set up the brass is resized from the base/web forward. Pushing the bulge in and forward, not in and down.

[Justsomeguy]

I would love to see the G-Rx in 9MM and .45.

A G-RX in 9mm wouldn't work, as the 9X19 case is tapered and pushing it through a straight-walled die wouldn't do anything. The .45 should work though.

Even so, I suppose you could machine a slim or thin adapter to push the 9mm case up completely into an extended carbide insert tapered die and then withdraw it on the downstroke using the extractor groove/rim. You just couldn't make it a "push through" type of die if you tapered the die internally, and as one email from Redding attests, the 9mm rim is larger than the case. Still, people have ground down the ends of their Dillon sizing dies to allow them to go further down to the shellholders with good effect, so something like that with a thin shellholder to allow the 9mm case to fully enter the die and still be able to withdraw it. You would have to be generous with the "spritz on" lube though I think!

Edited August 4, 2009 by Justsomeguy

[Justsomeguy]

I have one of the 40 Gizmos. It works well but the only issue I have is this.

Since you have to push the brass up through the Lee die mouth first it causes the "glock bulge" to be pushed down and in to wards the web of the case.

This may not be an issue, but the brass has to go some were.

My solution was to turn the head of a 3/8" ejector pin (injection mold part) to fit into a shell holder slot. Then cut it to the length needed to push the brass all the way through the Lee die (now by itself) base first (upside down). The end of the ejector pin must have a radius on it to fit the web of the case.

With this set up the brass is resized from the base/web forward. Pushing the bulge in and forward, not in and down.

I like the base first idea. I had been thinking about that before and wondering if it would just tear the head off. Redding said that the 9mm "rim" is larger than the base of the case, so I guess it's not possible with that cartridge, but it would certainly seem to be "doable" with a .40!

[cdrissel]

I have had no problems going base first.

I tumble the cases in corn cob/nu finish until they are super clean and shiny.

Then lube them up and push them through.

Just make sure the corner radius is large enough to match up with the web area.

[MustangGreg66]

Cool, I sure am glad I read the whole thread after watching that youtube video. I've been having some trouble with some 9mm brass not getting sized enough and almost jumped off to the basement to see if I could rig up a push through system for my Lee crimp die... glad I didn't. I didn't realize the 9mm and 45 had a wider rim. I think I'll try something like that with my .40 Lee die though and perhaps put one of these on order from Midway or look around.... Good stuff.

[Justsomeguy]

I have had no problems going base first.

I tumble the cases in corn cob/nu finish until they are super clean and shiny.

Then lube them up and push them through.

Just make sure the corner radius is large enough to match up with the web area.

Do you want to make another one of them thar poker things? I have the GRX and the will, but don't have the machinery to make the "upside down option" rod for myself. I would be willing to pay a modest fee for such an item! I even bought a single stage press just for this operation and built a new bench to mount it on. Ok Ok... I probably didn't NEED an 8ft long bench with 10 coats of polyurethane hand buffed between each coat on the benchtop... but hey... it's just my way!

[cdrissel]

I have had no problems going base first.

I tumble the cases in corn cob/nu finish until they are super clean and shiny.

Then lube them up and push them through.

Just make sure the corner radius is large enough to match up with the web area.

Do you want to make another one of them thar poker things? I have the GRX and the will, but don't have the machinery to make the "upside down option" rod for myself. I would be willing to pay a modest fee for such an item! I even bought a single stage press just for this operation and built a new bench to mount it on. Ok Ok... I probably didn't NEED an 8ft long bench with 10 coats of polyurethane hand buffed between each coat on the benchtop... but hey... it's just my way!

PM me.

[kamikaze1a]

I hope I don't come across as a wise guy but wondering why the need to size the 9mm and 45 like that? The 40 is a high pressure round and when shot in a Glock with the original unsupported barrel will often result in the "bulge" but I don't see that happening with the 9 and 45. Working brass (or metal) more than necessary hardens/weakens the shell which decreases the life of that shell... Are you getting the bulge with the 9 or 45 too?

[MustangGreg66]

I hope I don't come across as a wise guy but wondering why the need to size the 9mm and 45 like that? The 40 is a high pressure round and when shot in a Glock with the original unsupported barrel will often result in the "bulge" but I don't see that happening with the 9 and 45. Working brass (or metal) more than necessary hardens/weakens the shell which decreases the life of that shell... Are you getting the bulge with the 9 or 45 too?

45 no, but I've come accross some bulged 9mm range pickup brass. Althought it's probably from a 9mm major and I probably shouldn't reloadit anyway....

[kamikaze1a]

That's a good point...but as you said, reloading those major loaded 9mm could be problematic. As for the 40, I've found that SV/STI barrels have looser chambers too that result in a slight bulge but not nearly as bad from a Glock original barrel. Then again...loose chambers "usually" makes for more reliable feeding.

[MrVvrroomm]

Every piece of my 40 brass goes through my G-RX die. As per instructions I also run them through the standard sizing/decapping die.

I have even started using it on my 357 sig stuff, it works tremendously.

[rupie]

ordered one today, i have 2 to 10% rejects on my loaded rounds

[ExtremeShot]

I made a push thru die and ram on my lathe. See attached.

It makes NO sense to me to push the brass thru with the open mouth first. I turn the case upside down and push the head first. This way the bulge is rolled back towards the mouth, not the head.

Darren

[h2osport]

I just got my GR-x kit from Bauer Arms yesterday. I was going to just run all of my brass, and then decided to run some of my loaded rejects. They went right thru the die and all 120 previously rejected rounds case gauged fine.

I am going to load my rounds, case gauge, and then run only the rejects thru the GR-X. Seems like it will be way faster then running every case.

Randy

Edited because I do not read instructions. The Redding instruction sheet tells you not to size loaded ammo.

I ASSumed the pusher was recessed at the primer contact area so that you could size loaded ammo without pushing on the primer. I am obviously wrong!

Edited September 22, 2009 by h2osport

[ExtremeShot]

I just got my GR-x kit from Bauer Arms yesterday. I was going to just run all of my brass, and then decided to run some of my loaded rejects. They went right thru the die and all 120 previously rejected rounds case gauged fine.

What I have done recently (thanks to a friend's suggestion) is sort out the Glock-fired brass and only run those through the push-through die. I'm sure you already know this....the Glock-fired brass has the funny rectangular firing pin indentation in the primer. The rest of my brass seems to always run through the die without needing to be sized.

[Braxton1]

I decided to follow-up a bit on my "make the G-Rx with a carbide sizer ring" idea....

Being the possessor of numerous un-used carbide 40 dies, I decided to take the guts out of one and use the G-Rx pusher to push brass all the way through the carbide sizer.

WOWWWWWWW!!!! It took a LOT of pressure on the ram to make it happen, but when it came out, it was SO re-sized that it would drop clean through the G-Rx die.

I don't think that I'll continue down that path. It was just a playful experiment. Perhaps the answer is a slightly larger carbide sizing ring.

Redding: Are you listening?

[ExtremeShot]

I decided to follow-up a bit on my "make the G-Rx with a carbide sizer ring" idea....

Being the possessor of numerous un-used carbide 40 dies, I decided to take the guts out of one and use the G-Rx pusher to push brass all the way through the carbide sizer.

WOWWWWWWW!!!! It took a LOT of pressure on the ram to make it happen, but when it came out, it was SO re-sized that it would drop clean through the G-Rx die.

I don't think that I'll continue down that path. It was just a playful experiment. Perhaps the answer is a slightly larger carbide sizing ring.

Redding: Are you listening?

Like you, I cut the top off a .40 sizer die and gave it a try. It was waaay too tight. I should have measured the ID of the carbide insert first (doh) because it was something like 0.414. According to my reloading manual, the OD of the .40sw case and head is something like 0.424. Anyway, I went back to my homemade die (see picture in the post above). It works great. Anyone want a sizer die that doesn't deprime?

D

[Alan Adamson]

I made a push thru die and ram on my lathe. See attached.

It makes NO sense to me to push the brass thru with the open mouth first. I turn the case upside down and push the head first. This way the bulge is rolled back towards the mouth, not the head.

Darren

I believe the reason they want you to push the case through from the base of the case and not from the other side. Is that pushing it through with the stem in the inside stretches the case, and thins the area that you don't want thinned, the webbing at the base! Where cases rupture.

Pushing it from the base of the case, keeps the stretching at the webbing at the base intact and basically keeps the length of the case the same. I suspect that over time pushing from the inside will continue to lengthen the case and it will change the headspace of the round...

All just guesses. I use a Gizmo and it was fully specified to push it thru from the base of the case *ONLY*

Alan