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g17 .22 conversion kit?


Jay6

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Is there one out there and is anyone using them for cheap practice with their open gun? I am thinking about picking one up as it would be much easier to practice this time of year. Our indoor range is lead only and roudns need to be loaded under 1000 FPS so I have to go out in the bitter cold to get live fire with the race gun.

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I have a friend with one from Advantage Arms I think, and he's happy with it. I've tried it and it seems like a great way to have low cost practice.

There are a couple of considerations: (1) He says you can't drop the mags on the concrete floor of the indoor range or the will break. (2) You can't drop the striker on an empty chamber without damage, so he uses a chamber flag (small yellow piece of plastic) on the "If clear hammer down" command.

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I have a friend with one from Advantage Arms I think, and he's happy with it. I've tried it and it seems like a great way to have low cost practice.

There are a couple of considerations: (1) He says you can't drop the mags on the concrete floor of the indoor range or the will break. (2) You can't drop the striker on an empty chamber without damage, so he uses a chamber flag (small yellow piece of plastic) on the "If clear hammer down" command.

But it seems to work well with his race gun setup? I guess I was mostly curious as to how it would work with my SJC setup?

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There may be issues if the SJC rails were tightened. There's not a lot of wiggle room with the Advantage Kit. Also, just as an FYI, Glockworx and Tactical Solutions are both coming out with Glock kits. Don't know if they will be better or what, but I know the Advantage kits have been a little hard to come by lately. Tac Sol may also end up offering high cap mags. Since they are now partnered with Black Dog a high cap is a very good possibility. I'd buy one just for that reason.

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Mine runs great when clean. It needs to be cleaned every 150 rounds or so. I think they would benefit from a stiffer extractor spring, that seems to be my issue.

I haven't found a lead round it will feed though. Mine gets the Rem 550 Golden Bullets bulk packs from Wal Mart. It eats them just fine.

I drop my mags on concrete about 50 times a week. They work fine.

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AA Full-Size Glock Conversion Review

Only issue will be sights. Doubful that the rimfire upper will shoot to the same point at the centerfire upper if you have a frame mount. I have a Carver Hunter mount. The sights that are on the AA upper fit under the scope so I can use the upper on another frame without a scope mount, and I have a dedicated scope and ring for the rimfire conversion.

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I have the AA 22 kit and have used it on several different frames. It, like most .22lr pistols, is picky about what you feed it but is reliable once you find what works. The recoil spring needs to be a little heavier for suppressor use.

As far as practice you might as well get an air soft glock as the aluminum slide is quite a bit lighter that the steel Glock slide.

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Just an FYI, I went straight to SJC and asked about this and they do not reccomend using a .22 conversion kit with any of thier open guns. Not only is it not gauranteed to work, you can get a wear pattern that might cause you some issues when switching back to the 9mm upper. Guess I just need to stick with my Mark III for now!

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A little off topic but still related.......can anyone suggest a good source for spare magazines? I'm having a bear of a time finding some. I have some on back order for more than 2 months and now I'm afraid to buy from anyone else and wind up in the same position again.

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I have recently purchsed an Advantage Arms 22 conversion kit for a stock Glock 17. It functions well with CCI Mini Mags and Remington Thunderbolt. I imagine it would also do well with the Remington Golden Bullet HV ammo. The Federal HS bulk pack amo had some feeding problems and I would stay away from it for this use. Based on expereince with other 22 conversion units it seems that the Remington cheapie HV ammo functions welll with kits designed to shoot HV ammo.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Question for you AA owners. I just aquired one and find that I cannot drop the striker. The upper was a real pain to take off as well. When on the AA website I see it says that it may not work well with a aftermarket connector. Of course I have one instaled. Any suggestions from the forum. Mayby a little polishing or dremel on a particular spot. I dont want to get rid of the connector because I am very happy with it.

Of couse the other option is to buy another glock. Cant have enough. Support out sport.

Thanks for input.

Jay

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A Vanek connector will work. You will be happy with that too.

Question for you AA owners. I just aquired one and find that I cannot drop the striker. The upper was a real pain to take off as well. When on the AA website I see it says that it may not work well with a aftermarket connector. Of course I have one instaled. Any suggestions from the forum. Mayby a little polishing or dremel on a particular spot. I dont want to get rid of the connector because I am very happy with it.

Of couse the other option is to buy another glock. Cant have enough. Support out sport.

Thanks for input.

Jay

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Thanks for the info on the Vanek.

I spoke to a gunsmith and aside from replacing the connector the recommendation is to "stone" polish and remove a small amount of the metal on the portion of the striker exposed on the underside of the slide. This part is much longer than the factory portion on the original firing pin.

I have not done this yet but will post when complete

jay

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I just picked up a AA kit as well, LE 17-22. It is running Fed value-pack pretty well on my G34 lower with a Lichon trigger job. Running a Ghost rocket connector without any issues.

When removing the slide, you'll also need to push on the muzzel of the barrel a bit and it will allow you to release the slide lock.

I picked up 3 more mags from AA, they arrived in just a couple days.

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I just picked up a AA kit as well, LE 17-22. It is running Fed value-pack pretty well on my G34 lower with a Lichon trigger job. Running a Ghost rocket connector without any issues.

When removing the slide, you'll also need to push on the muzzel of the barrel a bit and it will allow you to release the slide lock.

I picked up 3 more mags from AA, they arrived in just a couple days.

does your ghost have the overtravel stop on it.

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Thanks for the info on the Vanek.

I spoke to a gunsmith and aside from replacing the connector the recommendation is to "stone" polish and remove a small amount of the metal on the portion of the striker exposed on the underside of the slide. This part is much longer than the factory portion on the original firing pin.

I have not done this yet but will post when complete

jay

PROBLEM: TRIGGER NOT DROPPING STIKER

REASON: MOST LIKELY GHOST CONNESTOR WITH OVERTRAVEL STOP

SOLUTION:

I used a very fine file and then used a stone to make sure I had no sharp edges on the bottom of the firing pin. I made sure to maintain the slight angle on the bottom of the firing pin. I took the pin apart and put it back together about a dozen times, each time shaving just a few strokes off of the metal.

I knew that I was close when I pulled the slide up away from the frame and was able to pull the trigger and drop the striker. After I was to that point it was only a couple of more strokes with the file and stone. Once finished I could see the trigger bar release the striker.

This was a fairly simple fix that took about 1/2 hour of detailed attention and cost me nothing.

I still have the ghost rocket with overtravel stop in the gun.

Hope someone else can use this information.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Was wondering if someone could help me out. I got a used AA G17 22 Kit a couple of months ago and keep encountering a problem where the 22 brass doesn't eject. Out of 10 rounds, I shoot maybe 2 to 5 rounds when suddenly it jams. I usually have to use a screwdriver or blade to take the brass out (it gets jammed pretty well). This happens very frequently so its come to the point where I don't even use it anymore...would absolutely love to though. Would like to replace my dryfire practice with AA instead sometimes. I have cleaned it, used the breakfree, and am currently using CCI Mags as per AA's recommendation. As you can see from the dent, its hits aren't centered either...any suggestions?

post-12205-1238454483_thumb.jpg

post-12205-1238454537_thumb.jpg

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Just an FYI, I went straight to SJC and asked about this and they do not reccomend using a .22 conversion kit with any of thier open guns. Not only is it not gauranteed to work, you can get a wear pattern that might cause you some issues when switching back to the 9mm upper. Guess I just need to stick with my Mark III for now!

Or build a dedicated 22 pistol.

Rich

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Was wondering if someone could help me out. I got a used AA G17 22 Kit a couple of months ago and keep encountering a problem where the 22 brass doesn't eject. Out of 10 rounds, I shoot maybe 2 to 5 rounds when suddenly it jams. I usually have to use a screwdriver or blade to take the brass out (it gets jammed pretty well). This happens very frequently so its come to the point where I don't even use it anymore...would absolutely love to though. Would like to replace my dryfire practice with AA instead sometimes. I have cleaned it, used the breakfree, and am currently using CCI Mags as per AA's recommendation. As you can see from the dent, its hits aren't centered either...any suggestions?

Just thinking out loud but you might want to check for a rounded extractor hook and/or a weak extractor spring.

1st off, I don't think it's possible for the indent of the striker to be where it is in your pic, unless the case rotated. The striker should impact right at the notch on the back of the chamber located at 12:00 (6:00 with the orientation in your pic).

If the the extractor has too much play, has a rounded hook from wear or damage, a weak spring, or is dirty and binding in its slot, it may not have enough purchase to pull out the case. That might also cause case rotation in the chamber after firing, if the hook is slipping off at an angle.

If the chamber is dirty, it could cause the case to bind. It could also cause rounds to not chamber fully. Speculating here, but a round fired slightly out of battery might not extract well.

It might be ammo related. For instance, AA specifically recommends against Federal. Naturally, I had to try, and found nearly none of them extract even though I used high velocity versions. They seem to have some difference in the rim that prevents reliable extraction. I use Remington bulk pack Golden Bullets, and they occasionally do the same thing (about once every one to three hundred rounds, with no change since the day I got the unit), that I figured was do to it being cheap ammo w/o the best QC.

MiniMags have plenty of oomph, but I think that mainly aides slide cycling and feeding from the magazine. They extract reliably for me, but if there's a mechanical problem with the extractor, that wouldn't be your experience. If there's a chamber problem, the higher pressure could cause a tighter interference fit, making extraction worse, despite the better rim configuration.

What to do? I'd clean the chamber and check how the round seats. I've never taken my unit apart, and I don't think you can get replacement parts, so if you think the extractor or spring have given up the ghost, you may want to ask AA. Cleaning in areas that require disassembly is problematic. You could spray some carb cleaner in there, but what to do about lubrication afterwards is beyond me - another AA question.

Sorry I can't be more helpful. If you can get it working, I'm sure you'll love the unit. I certainly use and like mine a lot.

KC

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