Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Saving Glocked Brass *video*


spencerhut

Recommended Posts

I know several people have come up with different ways to save Glocked 40S&W brass. Here is what I do . . . take a Lee FCD and remove the guts and use a pusher from a Lee .401 lead bullet sizing kit to push the brass through the FCD. Very simple and easy to do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know several people have come up with different ways to save Glocked 40S&W brass. Here is what I do . . . take a Lee FCD and remove the guts and use a pusher from a Lee .401 lead bullet sizing kit to push the brass through the FCD. Very simple and easy to do.

Great info, Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pretty cool. But, wouldn't the "U" die from EGW be far more efficient?

Jim

I have a U die, the brass in the video has been through it already. Yes, it's adjusted properly. This only seems to happen on .40S&W brass. My U dies for 9MM and .38 Super and do not have the same problem of cases failing the gauge in such large volumes as the .40S&W. I gauge everything in a L.E. Wilson case gauge and often times a round that fails the gauge will still chamber in my stock CZ-75TS barrel but not in my Hi-Power.

I suspect people using their barrel as a gauge or not using any gauge at all may be having a failure to feed or extract at times once the gun is a little dirty and they get one of these Glocked/bulged cases. Even a u die does not size all the way down, close, but not all the way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My apology in advance if this is a naive .40 S&W newbie reloading question. I’m new to reloading and my G35 has not arrived yet so I have not shot any reloaded ammo. I only have run test loadings through my new Dillon 550 using once-fired brass.

I watched the video and I see the use of the case gage and the brass does not go all the way in the gage. Has the brass been resized prior to inserting it into the case gage?

I have a Dillon case gage and most once fired brass won’t fit in the gage. Once I resize the case with the standard Dillon die it fits the case gage fine.

Is there still a potential problem with the brass?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has the brass been resized prior to inserting it into the case gage?

I have a Dillon case gage and most once fired brass won’t fit in the gage. Once I resize the case with the standard Dillon die it fits the case gage fine.

Is there still a potential problem with the brass?

Yes, brass was run through a EGW .40S&W U die prior to gauging it.

If the brass is passing the gauge it should be fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Been doing this since 2001, it comes up every once in a while. Here is a thread from back in 2004:

Thread link

Neal in AZ

Cool. And here I thought I had a brilliant idea . . . . <_<

I am sure I wasn't the first one to think of it either. I think it just shows what creative thinkers us reloaders are. :cheers:

Neal in AZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In a recent issue of Front Sight there was a device designed to do this. It came with all the necessary parts to set up to press cases through a die.

However, I am adding this for a different reason. A few years ago (5-7) up at Cortland, there was a vendor that had a device that would hold your standard case gauge and had a spring and rod inside it. You pushed your case in and the spring popped it back out. Eliminated the turn and tap or the turn and rod out the almost fits. Never seen it since.

Anyone have any idea where one might aquire such?

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried this last night with a spare Lee .40 FCD and the case doesn't even remotely go all the way though. It stops with about 1/8 in sticking out and no amount of force will make it go any further. What am I missing?

FYI, this brass has already been through an EGW die.

Edited by Graham Smith
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried this last night with a spare Lee .40 FCD and the case doesn't even remotely go all the way though. It stops with about 1/8 in sticking out and no amount of force will make it go any further. What am I missing?

FYI, this brass has already been through an EGW die.

I found that I could only do it with once fired brass or brass that had minimum rim dimensions. I found if the rim of the case had been made larger by firing a few times it was a pain to get through the die. The solid brass rim/case head doesn't compress very well.

This is why in my case I only used it on once fired brass to bring it back to specs. Once I did this I only fired the 10mm cases in my 610 revolver or the barsto barrel in my Glock 20.

Neal in AZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Been doing this since 2001, it comes up every once in a while. Here is a thread from back in 2004:

Thread link

Neal in AZ

what size or whatt kind of pusher is that oal..thanks

The pusher that is mounted in the ram is from the Lee bullet sizing kit. it is basically a flat topped rod with a shellholder shaped bottom so it snaps intot he ram of the S/S press.

Neal in AZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there is a machine called a casepro 100 but it's very expensive, it does the same thing, but it rolls the brass back to spec and removes all the bulge, but it is very, very fast. My friend can run it so fast that the Dillon casefeeder can't keep up on high. (it uses the casefeeder to feed it). you can knock out 1000 pieces of brass in less than 30 minutes easily with no jams.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...
I know several people have come up with different ways to save Glocked 40S&W brass. Here is what I do . . . take a Lee FCD and remove the guts and use a pusher from a Lee .401 lead bullet sizing kit to push the brass through the FCD. Very simple and easy to do.

Thanks for the video!

At all, I had some problems sizing my brass with the Lee FCD.

If the press wobbles even a little, the shells edge over in the inner thread, and when you size the next piece of brass, then they look like this:

q8sosgku.jpg

A little pipe inserted into the die helps.

I Took the body of an old syringe.

g6n3n5ks.jpg

766hte8z.jpg

And instead of your tool, a 9x19 case with a .355 bullet upside down with a shell holder:

This shorter construction enables to use the fully lever translation of the press at the end of the movement.

37hauv4y.jpg

And a cut off PET-Bottle (fitting to the upper part of the die) catches the brass:

7yka9shp.jpg

Edited by Skjold
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...