spencerhut

We fired ~60 rounds of mixed brass. The Tula were the only ones that did this. If it was Starline brass bulging like this might blame the gun. I'm calling this thin cases in a fast cycling delayed blowback. This upper has ~350 rounds through it in total. No other fired cases bulged like this, well none I was able to find.

That was sarcasm. They are going in the recycle bucket.

Was shooting some of my practice loads from our suppressed Banshee with the wife the other day. Didn't bother to pick up the brass until today and look what I found. These were mixed brass, 147gr MGB @ 135PF loads. Only the Tula brass did this. Roll sizing should fix it right up. I'll report back if any other brands of brass behave this way. The Banshee upper has run damn near 100% so far. Nice to be able to slap an upper on any standard AR lower and have it actually work properly out of the box with no mucking about.

(4) #8 2" wood screws have held any press I have owned with no trouble. The 3/8" bolts and T-Track are far, far stronger. Even 1/4 T-Track should be good enough.

Thanks! 1/2" of memory foam 23"x23"

First, get over picking up brass, try a brass wheel / nut wheel. Makes life a little better. Also bring a tarp and place it where most of your brass lands in practice. I've used this guy before and his stuff was fine. https://brassmanbrass.com/ I usually just buy new Starline and take the time to pick it up.

Mine is on a >100lb 2" thick 2'x2' marble slab, the slab sits on 1/2" foam pad. I am going to make a tall 2'x2' cabinet and screw it to the wall & floor for the scale when I get around to it.

Please bring all your conservative friends and family. We've had a staggering number of customers move up here.

I used the "Heavy Duty 7/8" Wide that takes 3/8" bolts. If I did it again I think the thinner standard 1/4" bolt head stuff would be fine. The mounting holes on the Dillon Strong Mount for my 650 & 550 and also my MEC9000H mounts are 9" on center so they can be bolted down easy. Since I'm using 3/8" bolts I did have to enlarge the mounting holes to 3/8" on all of them. I'm guessing the 1/4" holes in the mounts should have been a clue to me. Oh well, lesson passed on. The Mark 7 1050 I use for small primer stuff comes on it's own base so I can move it whenever my back feels up to it.:-) Still need to make mounting plates for the RCBS presses, the 1050 setup for Large Rifle and various accessories like the Giraud trimmer. I'm building two more benches more or less the same as this one, just taller. This bench is only 30" tall, otherwise I would need a step ladder to fill the bullet and case feeders. The other benches will be 36" tall. When I looked up info on using T-Track for a loading bench I found very little useful information. It does not seem like much but just these couple of paragraphs represent hours of research. I hope it helps someone out.

No, just a get away from the state that hates me for owning guns and cars etc. move.

Moved from CA to ID and am finally getting around to my reloading / man room. Feels good to get the first presses set. I used old fire rated doors from the local Habitat for Humanity for counter tops and set 7/8" Heavy Duty T-Track into them. The T-Track is 9" on center and works perfectly with the Dillon Strong Mounts. The RCBS, MEC etc. will be on 11"x whatever mounting plates made from 3/4" plywood. Ahh . . . progress.

My 7000Pro worked just fine with the occasional reset, like twice in the last two years. I keep it in the little rubber protector they sell and try not to bang it around too bad. In the last month or so it started for no discernible reason illuminate the buttons, and nothing else and become unresponsive. It stays like that until the battery dies or I take it apart and pull the battery, which is a pain in the butt. Takes a day or two on a full charge for the battery to run down in the buttons lit, failed state. It takes a really small screwdriver to take the cover off, smaller than what I normally carry in my range bag I found out the hard way when it first started acting up. With CED dropping support for the 7000Pro after such a short (compared other shot timers) product life I'm guessing these are not the most reliable electronic devices. One of the local clubs uses the standard 7000 and I've not heard anyone complain about them. Should have kept my PACT C3.

I ordered two in mid November and they showed up last Friday. Great parts, perfect fit. And if they are welded up Mossberg parts, that guy can weld. Seriously, they look like new stampings to me. The parts took a while to show up, but nothing like the 2 years 6 months and 21 days my J. Allen M1A stock took. Not that I'm bitter about waiting 2 years 6 months and 21 days.

I've found after going back and forth between many powders for 147g loads the best so far have been N320 and what seems to be it's brother from another mother, Ramshot Competition. I've shot endless rounds over the chrono with sorted brass and Hornady HAP and MGB TMJ 147g bullets. 3.2 to 3.5 grains of both of these powders produce almost identical velocities and felt recoil.Primers don't seem to matter much, 20fps at the extreme. OAL is 1.145" or less since we shoot it out of several CZ's. 3.5g of Bullseye works well also, not quite as smooth.

Ramshot Competition is really damn close to N320.

You say you don't have the time to waste. Yet you have posted countless posts on this thread and some of them have been paragraphs. Does that not take your precious time? GFY

I paid like $350 for mine.

The RCBS move away from APS is a sad one for me. I have wondered why they don't just give away the patent and let the system proliferate naturally. Strips are far more efficient than tubes. I have one Pro2000, two Super 1050's and several 550's and 650's. APS is the best priming system by far.

http://www.sheepdogsupplies.com/magazine-19rd-black-finish-11620-p-13998.html

Green fiber front, stock rear with the dots blacked out. Thanks! What FO front sight worked for you? I think it's a Tru-Glo. Honestly I forgot.

Since CZ's are make from Czech steel you need to lube them with products from the Czech Republic. All the US made lube you fools are using will never work on Czech steel.

Green fiber front, stock rear with the dots blacked out.

I'm starting to get along really well with the P-09. I've been shooting my M&P9 with the full Apex kit on it for a while, but the P-09 seems like it's even easier for me to shoot.

Yup, I'm 46 and have been casting bullets and reloading since I was EIGHT. My blood lead level is completely normal. Wash your hands. Put a couple of used dryer sheets in your tumblers. Close the lid on the tumblers, no perforated lids. A tablespoon of Mineral Spirits in each tumbler load also cuts down on the dust, but is not required. Wash your hands.

The cost of liquid (dawn is real cheap, lemishine if desired is cheap per load and water is really cheap) is less than the cost of the walnut shells, mineral spirits and polish. I like to wash brass, well before I used stainless steel media tumbling I used to wash my brass in water and dawn in a tub with some hand agitation (pretty high tech). Those results alone were pretty good and one could have easily loaded the brass after that process. Washing the brass is more effective for some of the brass I pick up as a result of the amount of grit, sand and small stones that find its way into the brass. My drying technique is pretty expensive too, I let the brass air dry... You are using a cleaning technique intended for benchrest shooting with extensive brass prep investment on pistol brass churned out by the thousands. Are you depriming your pistol brass before you clean it? If you are there is one more brass handling step most people don't have. If you are not de-priming then at some point you will have water contamination in your primer pockets. It's just a matter of time. Using any liquid cleaning method on pistol brass, or rifle brass for intended for blasting ammo is a complete waste of time and effort. If you have time to burn, knock yourself out, I've got better things to do with my life than fuss over how shiny my brass is. Who said I was doing just pistol brass? My "brass prep investment", particularly with pistol, is not "extensive" or expensive. No matter what method you use, it takes some effort unless someone else does it for you. I let machines do most of the work for me these days. You have made your opinion clear, but your comparisons and observations aren't always accurate (cost, time, etc.) What have I said that is not accurate? My opinion was earned the hard way, by trying all of these methods. Wet, dry. Removing primers, leaving them in place. Commercial walnut media, feed store crushed walnut. Commercial corn cob, feed store corn cob. Stainless steel pins, ceramic pins. Various commercial and home brew wet solutions. Vibratory tumblers, rotary tumblers, cement mixers, sonic tanks. Flitz, Dillon, car polish, mineral spirits Clean your brass whatever way floats your boat. I'm just trying to save the newbs from being dragged into time wasting OCD insanity.