WatchmanUSA

Thanks!

I have read over most the posts regarding choke tubes for the 930 SPX. Most people post the brand of tube they got but don't mention the type of contraction for the choke. Example - Improved Cylinder, Skeet 2 (Lt. Mod.), Modified, Improved Modified, Full, Extra Full and others. I'm shooting in 3-Gun and use bird shot, buck and slugs. I need a choke to improve long-range steel and clay shooting. If you would be so kind I'm looking for specific choke recommendations of Brand, Type and Constriction. Thanks in advance.

I have asked ATK (Federal) this question because I had a ton of brass marked FC 08, "FC 08 Brass Question - Is it Safe to Reload in .40 S&W?". Their response: The information you’re getting on the internet is incorrect. .40 brass head stamped FC08 is perfectly safe to shoot and reload.

My guess is every headstamp variety has had case failures.

This topic comes up from time to time. Several years ago I received an order of once fired brass that primarily had brass with a head stamp of "FC" along with "08" on the brass. I was concerned after reading the posts on this forum concerning case separations. Rather than read more on the forum I contacted Federal to see what they had to say. I got an email from Product Development saying the following, "The information you’re getting on the internet is incorrect. .40 brass head stamped FC08 is perfectly safe to shoot and reload." Rather than trust out dated hearsay information I suggest you contact Federal and see what they say about your brass.

They are in the mail....

It is defiantly brass and not aluminum or steel. It is only stained or oxidized brown. Your explanation of the soil causing the discoloration seems plausible.

I have been processing once-fired .223 Lake City brass. There is a small number of cases that appear to be colored brown. I'm fairly sure it is brass. When I trimmed it the exposed trimmed edge looks like brass. Any thoughts on the brown color? BTW - it remained brown colored after tumbling and it is smooth like the polished brass.

I recently went with Redding .223 National Match 3-die set. They work pretty well.

The best tool for consitant OAL are the Redding Competition Seating Die (http://www.redding-reloading.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=12%3A-competition-bullet-seating-die-for-handgun-a-straight-wall-rifle-cartridges). Then if you are really anal retentive you can get the CNC Machined 550/650 Toolheads from UniqueTek (http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1333).

This continues to reinforce my decision to purchase a Dillon. Imagine buying any other type of product we use in our lives and having an upgrade path (other than buy a new one) for something purchased 25 years ago. Unheard of, something like Dillon's customer support!

Even if you order the rifle you may get it quickly. Recently I ordered a Stag 8L-Plus (I have to shoot long guns left-handed) with several upgrades: Diamond-head Versa Rail .22LR Conversion Kit: Left-handed Hogue Pistol Grip Norgon Ambi-Catch Stag 3-gun Compensator Geissele Trigger (used in 3G) I ordered it through a local gun shop. They got the rifle in 15 days from the date I ordered it. I did this within the last 30 days. I suppose it is possible the 3G Competition may have a longer lead time.

I'm looking for a recommendation for a source for .223 once-fired brass. I can handle crimped brass. I ran across Southern Bell Brass - anyone buy from them? They have low cost brass. Any other recommendations?

I'm looking to get a recommendation for 12ga ammo to use in Defensive Multi-Gun (DMG). I'm looking for recommendations for buck, slug and especially shot that holds together in a tight and effective spread for steal targets. My DMG shotgun is a Mossberg 930 SPX.

The safety pin solution is the Dillon fix. It works like a champ.

I use the GRx for all my .40 brass. Don't waste time resizing in your Dillon first. Push all the brass through the GRx open end first. Always lube and always inspect your brass.

I'm about ready to get set-up to reload .308 Win with my Dillon 550B. I'm just looking for suggestions of powders that work well with my Dillon and provide good performance. I'll use this list to research the powders and make my selection. I will probably use 168gr BTHP match bullets from Widener's.

I'm just getting started loading for 308 and I need some advice on selecting a cost effective bullet to begin shooting. I'm not talking about a super quality match grade bullet here. I looking for a bullet I can use for general practice and shooting - 308 "plinking" if you will. My rifle manufacturer recommends 165 to 168 grain bullets. Any suggestions?

Yeah, but that says: Do not use the Bulge Buster Kit to reload for the 40 S&W Glock or similar guns with chambers that do not fully support the cartridge due to the intrusion of the feed ramp. Most (if not all) gun makers warn against the use of reloads. Lee is being prudent. OK, I couldn't let this one pass. I understand that a gun manufacturer would warn against using reloads in their firearms. Obviously, they don't want to be held responsible for someone else's stupidity. However, don't you find it odd that a manufacturer of reloading equipment would recommend that you don't reload? I'm just askin'...

I shoot my G35 in IDPA. After a couple reloadings of the brass I found about 20% wouldn't fit the case gauge. However, they fit fine in the barrel. I got the G-Rx to get the brass sized down to fit the gauge. The reason was to remove the possibility of the gun not going into battery in the middle of a stage.

I'm looking for some advice. Right now I shoot SSP in IDPA so I only own service pistols - I don't have a 1911. I have an incredible opportunity to buy one of two 1911's new, direct from the factory. I can order a Springfield or Kimber. I was ready to buy a Springfield Trophy Match 1991 but then I found out I can buy any Kimber 1911 and get the same discount. So now I'm conflicted. I would like some advice. The primary use will be for IDPA CDP competition. 1. If you could get any Kimber for IDPA competition, which Kimber would you buy? 2. Which would you buy the Kimber (from above) or the Springfield Trophy Match? Thanks in advance for your input.

Buy the G35, reload and have fun. You may want to consider one of the various solutions to re-size the full length of the case. Sear for Redding G-Rx for one possible solution. I have a G35, reload and have the Redding G-RX.

Thanks! I guess I'll pick them up.

I found a source where I can get a very good price on MagTech LP primers. Does anyone have any experience with these primers?

Yes, it is a push through die. The 10mm case is just longer than .40 S&W.