Drop In Trigger Job?

[JFD]

I'm looking at the Nowlin and C&S trigger pull kits. Seems a bit too easy to be true.

Basically I'm looking to upgrade my Kimber Custom Classic Target that I'm using for L-10. My thinking is that the current parts aren't the best in terms of just getting a trigger job. Lots of negative things being said about MIM parts.

The 3.5 lb kits look good, but I do wonder if either kit is worth the effort, or if there's a better one out there. Should I just turn the gun over to a pro and let him have at it, buy parts recommended here and have the pro take over from there, buy a kit, or what?

The trial and error route is getting tiring and expensive and I'm feeling iffy about what to do. I'd like to handle it myself, but if it isn't basically drop-in, I'd be in over my head.

Any help would be appreciated.

[38super]

Have you tried adjusting the 3 finger spring?

[Jon Merricks]

I got to drop the hammer on SingleStacks open gun and it was very nice. I think it was from Shooters Connection.

[Jon Merricks]

Ok I think I found it. Here you go.

Maybe SS will chime in and tell you a little more about it.

[JFD]

I've been leery of screwing around with it beyond lube at this point. I did lightly polish the disconnector, trigger bow, and spring contact surfaces, which helped, but I turned gutless after that.

Mainly I'm looking for smooth and crisp more than just simply making it lighter. My pre-series 70 Colt .38 Super ESP gun is around 3.5 lbs now (2 lb setup didn't last long enough) and very nearly trashes the Kimber in terms of smooth and crisp. I have tried a ton of trigger parts in that gun but keep going back to the factory parts (hammer was bobbed to clear the beavertail) that were worked over years ago.

[JFD]

That Ultimate Trigger Kit looks good. Am I going to need to make a spring(s) change as well?

You guys shocked me with the quick replies.

[Loves2Shoot]

I would just go with the SV hammer and sear and a tri-glide spring and disconnect. They have a great drop in fit.

[bountyhunter]

They will drop in and work fine if the boss pins in the frame are on spec. If not, may not work right. FWIW: I think a good smith could do a decent trigger job on the original parts for under $100. That usually includes going to a lighter hammer spring.

[Flexmoney]

I would never think about doing a trigger job on MIM parts. I don't have any "real world" experience with them...but i do read alot.

The Cylinder & Slide trigger parts are often the standard. Many a smith will choose them when doing a "best" gun.

The C&S trigger parts work fine as drop-in. Or, they are one of the best sets to use for further customization.

But, if you want an SV trigger and sear...I picked a set up off of the prize table at the Nationals. I would sell it for a fair price. (Hammer has the "SV".)

[EricW]

I would never think about doing a trigger job on MIM parts. I don't have any "real world" experience with them...but i do read alot.

I despise MIM parts in triggers. However, I did do a trigger job on my Redhawk with it's MIM parts and things turned out very well. You just have to go very gently and make double damn sure you don't break through the case hardening. Copious amounts of Slide Glide also worked wonders.

[Singlestack]

I have used the ultimate trigger kit on several guns. Sometimes you have to touch the sear a little and sometimes they fit perfect. The last one I used I put in my open blaster and it breaks like thin glass and I was able to adjust it down to 18oz w/out following(i quit there). It dropped in with absoluty no creep. I run it at 28oz and it has never followed. IMO, that is incredible. I don't know they do it, but I'm sure it has a lot to do with the gun you put it in. My open blaster has an STI frame.

[JFD]

Thanks for the reponses.

The C&S parts have a solid reputation for sure and have been on my "should really try this" list for a long time.

Flexmoney hit on the other part of the equation; if the drop in fit didn't go totally as planned, then I'd have parts in the gun that are worth having a trigger job.

After my experience with CMC parts (namely the hammer), I don't think getting a trigger job on the factory parts is an option.

The SV sounds good as well.

I should probably consult with our local gunsmith as well on the subject. He has a solid reputation with the USPSA crowd and might have some insight on any problems associated with Kimbers (or not).

Thanks again.

[Guest Larry Cazes]

I used the forged nowlin drop in commander parts from Brownells on a Para P14 and got an excellent crisp 3lb trigger in under 3 hours. I also added an SVI trigger. The nowlin kit cost about $90.00 and the SVI trigger cost $29.00. The only part that needed slight fitting was the trigger. Spending $100 - $150 on a trigger job using the original Para parts was not even a consideration. I also tried an ISMI 15lb mainspring and got the trigger down to under 2lbs but that is way too light for me so I went back to the nowlin 17lb. If you feel confident doing this kind of work, I would reccomend the nowlin kit.

Larry

[JFD]

The thing I like about the nowlin is the price.

I've got no problem changing the parts, and fitting a trigger is something I've done before as well. Beyond that, light polishing is all I'm willing to do with trigger parts.

The gun is accurate and super reliable right now. I'm in no big rush to upgrade, so I can continue to ponder the choices. I've been very pleased with the gun so far, and have put at least 5000 rounds through it since I bought it this winter.

It does appear that a drop in trigger job is a reality, or at least there's a good chance that it would be.

[BrianH]

The nice thing about the STI/SV parts is consistency.

I put a new SV sear with a CMC "Nastoff" hammer of about 12 years ago into an STI frame....dead money on the angles. With the springs set up as-is, pull-checked at 1 pound 12 ounces. Pretty impressive for not really trying.