Jeff686 Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 I like to stripe by brass. Of course, it helps me get my own brass back, but it also makes it easier to spot it in the gravel amongst all those 9mm cases. Just putting a colored line or X on the headstamp is not enough, since you can't see it when the brass lays flat. If you, like me, prefer the striped ring around the brass, how fast are you? I thought about getting one of hosercam's brass marking thingies, but he doesn't make them anymore. My solution is shown below. I can mark around 800 rounds/hour. I'm wondering if that is fast, or if anyone has a better method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anon Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 I haven't tried it, but what about one of those airbrushes, that blows over the tip of a magic-marker? Just dump your ammo in a box, spray, shake the box and spray the other side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted December 8, 2008 Author Share Posted December 8, 2008 (edited) I've considered several different 'spray' methods, but the ones I've looked at use pigmented inks that are very thick. I worry about it being too thick. I think that the dye based ink is better because it doesn't add much actual material/residue to the case. In fact, type of ink can make a huge difference. I once tried an ink-pad (like you use for stamps), but that was a disaster. That ink is designed to not dry quickly, and stayed tacky. My hands were covered in ink, and my mags were all gummy on the inside. I haven't tried a patina or dyechem yet... I can make a little tool to add lengthwise stripes to brass as they feed down the casefeeder tube. However, the dye doesn't stay on after the resizing, I've tried. Plus, I like to use a little lube, and it has to come off before striping. Edited December 8, 2008 by Jeff686 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wooddog Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 I tattoo all my brass... Kidding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buddy_fuentes Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 From a box of ammo I kept the styrofoam part that holds the bullets. I place my reloads in the two outside rows and one row down the middle. This gives me space to mark the sides of the cases. I take a mark-a-lot and mark the sides of the brass on each side. Then I put the x on the top. I'm done in less than a minute for 30 rounds. The side marks cover enough of the case to see when laying on its side. It ain't pretty, but it is functional. Buddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPatterson Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 With the Hosercam brass marker really fast with 1 color but slower with 2 colors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatland Shooter Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 I can mark around 800 rounds/hour. I'm wondering if that is fast, or if anyone has a better method. 800 rounds/hour beats the daylights out of my method. What is the tool at the end of the cordless screwdriver that grabs the brass? (In other words I like your method better than mine and want to switch.) Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 I can mark around 800 rounds/hour. Dude, that's GM speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin c Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 I haven't tried it, but what about one of those airbrushes, that blows over the tip of a magic-marker?Just dump your ammo in a box, spray, shake the box and spray the other side. I've considered several different 'spray' methods, but the ones I've looked at use pigmented inks that are very thick. I worry about it being too thick. I think that the dye based ink is better because it doesn't add much actual material/residue to the case. In fact, type of ink can make a huge difference. I once tried an ink-pad (like you use for stamps), but that was a disaster. That ink is designed to not dry quickly, and stayed tacky. My hands were covered in ink, and my mags were all gummy on the inside. I had a friend who tried something like this. He put his supercomp rounds in 100 rd boxes, headstamp up, and sprayed a few hundred with black spray paint. Malfunction city. He never did that again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 I can mark around 800 rounds/hour. I'm wondering if that is fast, or if anyone has a better method. 800 rounds/hour beats the daylights out of my method. What is the tool at the end of the cordless screwdriver that grabs the brass? (In other words I like your method better than mine and want to switch.) Bill Hi Bill, That's a socket driver. I think it is 1/2". I jammed a piece of rubber in it, so it grabs the ammo. The key is the bullet tray. I found a drill bit that was only a slight bit larger than the 38 super cases. I drill only deep enough to cover the bullet and a few mm of the brass. Most importantly, stagger the holes so you can reach between the outer row and hit the inner row with the marker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatland Shooter Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 Hi Bill,That's a socket driver. I think it is 1/2". I jammed a piece of rubber in it, so it grabs the ammo. The key is the bullet tray. I found a drill bit that was only a slight bit larger than the 38 super cases. I drill only deep enough to cover the bullet and a few mm of the brass. Most importantly, stagger the holes so you can reach between the outer row and hit the inner row with the marker. Thanks for the info Jeff. Anything that cuts down on my prep time and increases my shooting time is an excellent investment. And thanks for starting this thread. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirpy Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 I just mark the base with a red and black X. They other guys/girls learned to recognize my brass and gave it back. Lot less trouble. I marked them as I put them in ammo boxes. Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 Jeff686: What's the block made of? I think a block made from UHMV would be slippery enough for the spinning bullets. Great idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 How fast can you stripe your brass?, not just X the headstamp sounds like a good mod for a case pro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holliday89 Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 (edited) Not sure if its faster, for me its fast enough when a hockey game or race is on tv to watch. I like the drill part, have to figure out how to add that to mine. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...l=brass+striper What sizes adapter do you use tohold the brass? I could really save my fingers with one of those! Edited December 9, 2008 by Holliday89 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 Jeff686:What's the block made of? I think a block made from UHMV would be slippery enough for the spinning bullets. Great idea. I'm not totally sure. I believe it is some type of delrin. I got it from the scrap bin at work. It is medium hard, and looks/feels similar to the self-lubricating plastic parts in my Dillon press. I think the key was getting the hole size correct, too big and they flopped around. Too small, and they didn't spin. Also, I'm using Montana Gold IFP, which look a lot like a JHP, but no hole, just flat lead on the front. I think that keeps the contact area down, and lets the bullets spin better. I did notice during this last batch that the rubber I stuffed in the socket is getting dirty. I'll have to replace it soon, or find another way to keep it tacky. If I had the time, I would pick a smaller socket, maybe 3/8th, then bore and chamfer out the inside a little (slightly funnel shaped) to make transitions faster . The smallest socket that fits your ammo is best, since it tends to wobble if off-center. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 Not sure if its faster, for me its fast enough when a hockey game or race is on tv to watch. I like the drill part, have to figure out how to add that to mine. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...l=brass+striper What sizes adapter do you use tohold the brass? I could really save my fingers with one of those! Did you mean in the electric screwdriver? I think it is 1/2". I used a chunk of rubber to add some friction. If you're asking about the plastic block, I don't recall what size drill bit I used, but it wasn't one of the standard sizes. I think it was a numbered bit. Where in Pittsburgh are you from? I grew up near Freeport, in Buffalo Twp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 How fast can you stripe your brass?, not just X the headstamp sounds like a good mod for a case pro. Do you have to resize again after the case pro? If not, one could just decap in station 1. Then the strip would stay on. Of course, I don't need a case pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holliday89 Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 (edited) Cool, gonna pick one of them up when Im at Lowes today I live in Canonsburg, Near Washington. Oregon, your a long way from home. Edited December 9, 2008 by Holliday89 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larry cazes Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 (edited) Doesnt take me ANY time at all to Stripe mine. The wife does it! No seriously we have a deal where I load, she stripes, and we both shoot it. She uses one of Nolan's (hosercam) dual stripers and it takes maybe 2 seconds per round. Edited December 10, 2008 by larry cazes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted December 10, 2008 Author Share Posted December 10, 2008 Cool, gonna pick one of them up when Im at Lowes todayI live in Canonsburg, Near Washington. Oregon, your a long way from home. I drove past there frequently. Went to WVU. Never stopped. How did the shopping trip go? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holliday89 Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 (edited) I got a 9mm & a 10mm socket head. They both fit over there respective bullet sizes. 9 & 40. Just like you a small bit of rubber in the socket head and the bullett end stays put. Press the button on the screw driver and BAM! The bullet is Bill Murray I took some classes @ WVU I went to WVWC & Virgina Tech, i know, I know Tech and WVU dont really like each other to much Edited December 10, 2008 by Holliday89 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 (edited) My marking takes 0.00, I switched to 9 Major. Edited December 10, 2008 by hitman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 My marking takes 0.00, I switched to 9 Major. Same here but I'm not shooting 9mm Major, just 9mm minor and 40 Major. I don't pick up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted December 10, 2008 Author Share Posted December 10, 2008 My marking takes 0.00, I switched to 9 Major. Yea, I wish for 9 major. Once they work out the magazine issues with my gun, I'll probably switch. For now, I'm sticking with 38 super. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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