Replacing fiber in SDM?

[Matt Griffin]

Just curious, my FO fell out and I notice that the front of the sight doesn't have a hole, just a detent for the rod. How then do you secure the FO rod in the sight? On my Dawson, you melt both sides and are good to go, but this seems different.

H.

[Toolguy]

Most people just drill thru and make it like the other ones. It collects more light that way anyway.

You can also use watery, clear super glue (not gel) and it will wick in and hold it securely.

Edited November 25, 2008 by Toolguy

[Viggen]

Getting the bits out of the hole is usually the problem.

When putting in a new piece of fiber on SDM shove it in. What we then do, YMMV, is melt the fiber on both sides of the hole on the rear of the sight(front side and back side of hole). Not a lot of melt but enough.

Like all things revolver, it's different.

[Matt Griffin]

Hmm, I might just go ahead and drill the front. I have a good cobalt drillbit from working on Glock triggers, so it shouldn't be a problem. Thanks for the info, guys.

H.

[Carmoney]

As the F/O rod breaks or darkens to an unacceptable level on my SDM sights, I've been drilling them through so the F/O is easily replaceable. If you use a Starrett punch to carefully create a centered dimple on the front of the sight, it's pretty easy to drill the sight from the front with a hand drill, so you don't even have to remove the sight from the barrel. Then you can melt both ends of the F/O properly.

Also, I've been using more EGW sights lately.

[Carmoney]

Hmm, I might just go ahead and drill the front. I have a good cobalt drillbit from working on Glock triggers, so it shouldn't be a problem. Thanks for the info, guys.

H.

That'll work. The SDM sights are not particularly hard. They're pretty easy to drill.

[Carmoney]

What we then do, YMMV, is melt the fiber on both sides of the hole on the rear of the sight(front side and back side of hole). Not a lot of melt but enough.

The problem with that plan is that melting the F/O rod along its length (and not just at the ends) can negatively affect the light transfer that makes the sight work, and more importantly can weaken the integrity of the rod, making it more likely to break quickly.

[CJDOUBLETAP]

What we then do, YMMV, is melt the fiber on both sides of the hole on the rear of the sight(front side and back side of hole). Not a lot of melt but enough.

The problem with that plan is that melting the F/O rod along its length (and not just at the ends) can negatively affect the light transfer that makes the sight work, and more importantly can weaken the integrity of the rod, making it more likely to break quickly.

If you don't melt it how do you get it in? Glue?

[Toolguy]

You should melt both ends whether you glue it or not. Don't melt the middle part.

[Tom E]

The original FO is 1.5 mm, .060". The muzzle end is staked and the FO usually pre-cracked because of it. The sight can be drilled for a 2 mm, .080" FO. It will lay on the bottom of the cut out and seems much harder to break. I didn't drill mine thru but super glued it. Foam safe super glue. I didn't drill it thru (left it blind) 'cause the muzzle end is usually what gets wacked and drilling it thru would let it get deformed more easily.

Edited November 26, 2008 by Tom E

[steel1212]

http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?ap...mp;ref=SWsights

Those are basically like the dawson's it looks like. No drilling required. Once I play with the black front for a little while, if I go to a FO I'll probably get one of those.

[LPatterson]

That's a good looking sight but a little pricey.

[steel1212]

That's a good looking sight but a little pricey.

28$ from midway....look at just the front sights not the set

[RePete]

Just curious, my FO fell out and I notice that the front of the sight doesn't have a hole, just a detent for the rod. How then do you secure the FO rod in the sight? On my Dawson, you melt both sides and are good to go, but this seems different.

H.

I had this same problem, so an e-mail to SDM solved that.

Here is the reply.

Hi Peter

Below are the directions I send with replacement elements and bulk F.O.

If this does not answer your questions let me know

Scott

To flare and clear the visible end.

roll the element back and forth between thumb and forefinger and slowly approach a heat source ( bic lighter, candle etc)

don't get it to big or it will not fit in the counterbore on the sight.

To cut

Roll the element on a clean hard surface while cutting with a single edge razor blade ( Best method )

or use a very fine very sharp cutter ( like fingernail clippers )

To remove broken pieces from sight

Break off and pull out all the pieces you can. The hard one is the piece stuck in the blind hole. Here is the trick to get it out easily. Take a small pin ( sewing type ) and bend the tip into a tiny "L" shape. ( it has to fit in the blind hole ) While holding the pin with hemostats or needle nose pliers heat the tip till it glows red and push it into the broken piece in the blind hole as far as it will go. Do not move it until it cools completely. Then pull it out with the pliers. The broken piece will come with it.

Installing the new element

On the left side of the front of the sight you will notice a small dimple. This is where the element was crimped in place. Just pushing the new element in should be all that is needed. The dimple will hold it. It may be hard to push in all the way. Using a blunted round tooth pick may help.

Please let me know if you have any question. Or feel free to call, I can walk you through it.

Hope that helps.

Regards

Scott D. Mulkerin

SDM Fabricating Inc.

3775 Foskett Road

Medina , Ohio 44256

330-723-3098

email sdmfab@zoominternet.net

web www.sdmfabricating.com