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Scopes with BDCs…


badchad

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The last two (and the only two matches) I have shot with my new rifle and Burris XTR-14 required shooting a lot of head box only targets at close range (5-25 yards). The first time I shot a few necks (AKA Mikes) but this morning I planned out which hash mark I wanted to use for which distance and shot considerably better. However, I thought it took some extra mental processing time to remember which mark to use where during the course of fire and thought it might have been just as easy to just “hold over” with my scopes central dot.

Going forward do you think it will be a better plan to test, remember, and practice which hash to mark to use as my point of aim for close precise shots, or would it be better to get good at just holding over the proper amount with my big central dot?

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better plan to test, remember, and practice which hash to mark to use as my point of aim for close precise shots, or would it be better to get good at just holding over the proper amount with my big central dot?

I've been wondering the same thing. I don't have a BDR in my Kahles and usually do the hold over thing. As I think about getting one, I'm wondering if it would only be an occasional distance thing. I can't see looking for the hash marks while hosing.

MHearn

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Be careful! Kurt's advice is for iron sighted rifles and may not work with an optically sighted rifle.

Allow me to translate Kurt's iron sighted holdovers into optic terms.

0-15 yards dot on the top line of the target.

15-30 yards dot near top, like near the hairline.

30- 50 yards dead on!

There! Now it should work for you! :D

Erik

Edited by Bear1142
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If you shoot the Burris 1x4 with the duplex, the base of the crosshair where it comes up out of the duplex, is dead on a 10 yds with a 200 yd zero. Obviously the bullet is climbing pretty fast so it changes quickly, so you have to adjust a little. The crosshair is on at 50 yds, so you can see how much little mental adjustments are needed across that CQB distance. It is not hard to hit that big A zone, but if you want A's on the head only shots, it takes a little more work. Now I'll add a question for the better shooters out there. With the difference between the A and B zone only being 1 point per shot, how careful are you going to be to shoot A's versus getting two quick shots off and being happy with B's?

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If you shoot the Burris 1x4 with the duplex, the base of the crosshair where it comes up out of the duplex, is dead on a 10 yds with a 200 yd zero. Obviously the bullet is climbing pretty fast so it changes quickly, so you have to adjust a little. The crosshair is on at 50 yds, so you can see how much little mental adjustments are needed across that CQB distance. It is not hard to hit that big A zone, but if you want A's on the head only shots, it takes a little more work. Now I'll add a question for the better shooters out there. With the difference between the A and B zone only being 1 point per shot, how careful are you going to be to shoot A's versus getting two quick shots off and being happy with B's?

There's a 2 point difference between A and B when shooting minor, like 223, using USPSA rules. In outlaw matches, time + matches, the scoring system varies. Some specify that one hit in an A, OR one in the A-B zone, nuetralizes the target. Others require 2 hits anywhere. Whatever, I'm usually happy with Bs, but would rather have As!

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