G17 Open gun problem

[open17]

OK---this one has got me talking to myself. Wife and I have G17 open guns. All ammo loaded with

same bullet, same primers, same mixed cases, different powders. I shoot major, she shoots

minor. My gun runs without a hickup, hers has a problem. It will go CLICK instead of

BANG about 5% of the time. Gun ran 100% for years, just started this

maybe 4 months ago. Does it with all magazines. If I try to fire the rounds again

they go bang just fine.

First thought---high primers. But my gun runs fine with (almost) identical loads.

Second thought---her gun is sprung light. Maybe it's a little bit out of battery?

Nope---RO'ed her several stages and WATCHED it---not out of battery. The

dent in the primer is centered too, out of battery is usually a little off center.

I've literally been over the gun with a magnifying glass. Can't find any crud, cracks

or anything that looks out of place.

I've tried 4 different recoil springs on 3 different guide rods.

3 different strikers, 3 different striker springs. Marine and standard spring cups.

3 different safety plungers and 2 different plunger springs.

2 different trigger housings, 3 trigger bars, 2 trigger springs, 3 connectors.

Replaced the channel liner.

And it still goes CLICK about 1 round in 20.

So I throw myself on the mercy of the collective wisdom-------what am I missing?

Bill

[Jman]

Bill,

Holy cow! This is a tough one.

Someone told me once that ammo that doesn't go bang usually points to a ammo problem. Try some some factory stuff (if you haven't already) cause it sure don't sound like a gun problem. To me at least.

Jim

[TruStreet]

My wife & I both have open 17s and when mine started doing that it needed cleaning. I took the slide apart & gave it a good cleaning problem went away!

[HoMiE]

Maybey the chamber has too much headspace and the bullet is going to far forward?

[Micah]

Give it a scrub...really clean the hell out of it and see what that does. If it's still acting weird, swap barrels with the other G17 and see what happens. The problem is one of those two (or TruStreet owes you $20 )

[open17]

Maybey the chamber has too much headspace and the bullet is going to far forward?

Hmm---Darned thing ran fine for several years, but I will check it. They all go bang

when I try them a second time. I'm still leaning toward SOMETHING that's interfering

with the striker fall, or releasing the striker early (short striker fall). I've cleaned it

until it shines, probed every crevice with a strong light and a jewelers loupe. I'm sure

it will be a D'OH moment when we figure it out but for now I'm baffled!

[open17]

Bill,

Holy cow! This is a tough one.

Someone told me once that ammo that doesn't go bang usually points to a ammo problem. Try some some factory stuff (if you haven't already) cause it sure don't sound like a gun problem. To me at least.

Jim

The gun really doesn't run with anything factory. Lightened slide, couple of blow holes and a

Titanium comp, it really prefers a minor load with a fairly slow powder. Current load is

5.7 of 3N37 with a 124 gr bullet, WSPM primers. Shoots like a 22.

I agree---ammo should be the first place I look---BUT I load for my gun on the same press,

same primers/brass/bullets, same OAL etc., and my gun doesn't malf like hers. I might

get a click once in 400-500 rds, she gets one in 20 rounds.

[HoMiE]

Try running it without the FPB and see if the problems goes away. I polished a trigger bar and FPB too much and I think it threw the timing of the safety mechanism off. Doesn't push FPB up high enough and the striker would slight hit FPB in the striker channel. New unmolested trigger bar and FPB, no more like strikes for me. The only time I run into light strikes is using Win. primers, but never had a problem with Fed primers. Let me know if you need any parts.

[open17]

Try running it without the FPB and see if the problems goes away. I polished a trigger bar and FPB too much and I think it threw the timing of the safety mechanism off. Doesn't push FPB up high enough and the striker would slight hit FPB in the striker channel. New unmolested trigger bar and FPB, no more like strikes for me. The only time I run into light strikes is using Win. primers, but never had a problem with Fed primers. Let me know if you need any parts.

I may go to Federal primers, but I would sure like to figure out WHY it's doing it. Been running

WSPM primers for YEARS in all our guns with no problems.

OK----I've tried 3 trigger bars---still does it.

Firing pin safety plungers. 3. Stock, my rounded polished, and a Lightning strike.

3 plunger springs. Stock, cut down stock, and a Wolff competition.

3 Strikers. Lightened stock, polished stock, and a Lightning Strike.

3 Striker springs. Stock, cut down stock and a Wolff competition.

Still does it.

Keep the ideas coming Mitch----I'm missing SOMETHING here. Probably looking right at it,

but I don't see it yet.

Bill

[HoMiE]

Make the tip of the striker with a marker or dykem and see if it's hitting. Does it look like this? Mine looked like that when I had light strike problems.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=69524

Are you using a overtravel trigger stop? I ran into some problems when that wasn't adjusted correctly. I guess it can get caught on the drop safety and that could be interferring with the striker travel.

Edited September 16, 2008 by HoMiE

[open17]

Make the tip of the striker with a marker or dykem and see if it's hitting. Does it look like this? Mine looked like that when I had light strike problems.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=69524

Are you using a overtravel trigger stop? I ran into some problems when that wasn't adjusted correctly. I guess it can get caught on the drop safety and that could be interferring with the striker travel.

The rounded/polished plunger that was in the gun was hitting the striker. I replaced the striker

and plunger, still getting light strikes.

No overtravel stop, no takeup screw. Trigger housing is stock, LWD 3.5 connector,

Glockmeister trigger spring. Currently running a stock striker, stock striker spring,

new channel liner, marine spring cups. Still does it. I'll tear it down again tomorrow.

Check headspace, look at the striker etc. I think we will do a range day Thursday evening

and see if we got it figured out.

[ede]

my first thought was dirt in the striker channel or a weak spring on the striker. are you using factory spring? i've had problems with the reduced power striker springs and gave up on using them.

[SDM]

my first thought was dirt in the striker channel ...

I would try cleaning the channel good as well. Then leave it dry.

For what it's worth I've fired thousands of WWB and Blazer Brass with a reduced power striker spring (Wolff). I read about that problem often but there are exceptions.

[atmar]

have you tried stock striker spring w/ stock recoil spring?

[Jman]

One other thing to check in case you haven't. Very closely inspect the condition of the breech face. Make sure you clean it down to metal first. Erosion has caused ignition problems. Sort of mimicking a high primer. This ones a stumper, hope you get it figured out soon.

Jim

[coltgov]

Try something different. My open 9 is still evolving!

Like a little heavier recoil spring. Maybe it's pulling out of battery when the trigger is pulled.

Then increase the power factor a little.

A more sensitive primer like Federal if it isn't high primers.

New extractor since that is what is holding the round when the striker hits it.

[vrmn1]

Have you replaced the channel liner?

If the firing pin and spring are being allowed to move around during travel it could be dragging slowing it down enough to cause light strikes.

[Chuck Anderson]

Put it as close to stock as you can. If you have a stock G17 top end laying around, throw that on it and replace all of the internals with stock parts. If you need any of this stuff let me know and I'll loan you a G17 to gut. If it works with the G17 slide and factory parts then you know it is something else. If it doesn't, the only thing left is the frame. Start adding parts back on until it malfunctions again. I would rather have a gun that malf'd every 20 rounds than one that pukes every 500. It's a heck of a lot easier to diagnose.

Have you tried it without the frame weight? I know Glock had some issues with malfucntions caused by weapon lights. The weight could be causing the same problem.

[open17]

Have you tried it without the frame weight? I know Glock had some issues with malfucntions caused by weapon lights. The weight could be causing the same problem.

I'll give it a try without the weight Chuck---at this point I'll try about ANYTHING. Darned

thing ran great for about 3 years. Something has changed, just need to track it down.

I've got another slide, barrel, comp etc. I can put on it. Even have a STOCK top end that

I haven't messed with (well--maybe a little bit).

I'm beginning to think it's something in the frame/slide, but I haven't found it yet.

I'm going to tear it down again to the smallest part and go over it with a magnifying glass.

I'll find it, question is will I find it before we take off for Area 2.

Bill

[open17]

Have you replaced the channel liner?

If the firing pin and spring are being allowed to move around during travel it could be dragging slowing it down enough to cause light strikes.

Yup---new channel liner. Even tried it with marine spring cups--they are supposed to have

a tiny bit less drag than standard ones. Still gets light hits.

[Chuck Anderson]

Nancy can borrow my SJC for Area 2 if she needs it. Doesn't have the weight but it's pretty soft with minor ammo. I'm wondering if one of the frame rails might be cracked, below where they poke out of the frame. It might be allowing some flex in the frame.

[open17]

Nancy can borrow my SJC for Area 2 if she needs it. Doesn't have the weight but it's pretty soft with minor ammo. I'm wondering if one of the frame rails might be cracked, below where they poke out of the frame. It might be allowing some flex in the frame.

Could be a cracked frame rail. I pried on them a bit Saturday but didn't see anything move.

I will take a closer look at them. That is almost what it seems like---something letting the slide

raise up a bit and releasing the striker too soon. Thanks for the offer on the SJC. Her frame

has a reduced grip on it--not sure how she would get along with a full size grip. I'll spring

down my gun for her ammo and have her try it this week. I've got another gun about

85% finished, (the KaBoom frame, Lone Wolf slide, KKM barrel),I could set it up minor easily.

[Flexmoney]

Has the slide been tightened to the rails?

[open17]

Has the slide been tightened to the rails?

Yes--but it appears to have loosened up a bit from when I originally built the gun 5 years

ago. Vertical play at the rear of slide is .011. You thinking inconsistent striker release?

Bill

[open17]

Has the slide been tightened to the rails?

Yes--but it appears to have loosened up a bit from when I originally built the gun 5 years

ago. You thinking inconsistent striker release?

Bingo--we have a winner. Slide was looser than I thought. Gun has a HUGE side racker on it--probably accelerated the slide wear. Didn't look bad up-down or side to side--but it would

actually ROLL on the frame. Looks like it would sometimes release the striker a bit early

and cause a light strike.

A few hearty whacks with the "Glock slide tightening tool" ------trigger got nice and crisp again,

and she shot a match today with ZERO light strikes.

Bill