1200B Case Trimmer debur and chamfer

[Mull]

I currently do all my loading on a single stage Lyman Crusher. After processing my brass (tumble, resize, deprime, remove lube, trim, chamfer, debur, hand prime), the loading goes fairly fast. For .223 Remington I put the powder directly into the case using a Lyman 55 powder measure then place the case into the press and seat a bullet. I am considering getting a progressive, but it all kind of hinges on if it is necessary to chamfer and debur the case if I used a 1200B case trimmer.

My, as I see it now, process if I get a progressive would be:

1. Tumble. (Not much effort on my part.)

2. Lube. (Not much effort on my part.)

3. Resize, deprime, trim using 1200B and trim die. (Done with a pull of the handle. Easy)

4. Prime. (Done with the same pull of the handle from step 3. Easy)

5. Powder charge. (Done with the same pull of the handle from step 3. Easy)

6. Seat bullet and eject loaded cartridge from press. (I place the bullet above the case. Easy.)

7. Remove lube via short time in tumbler. (Not much effort on my part.)

If I could follow the above procedure then reloading would be easy and very fast. So, is it necessary to chamfer and debur after the case goes through the 1200B?

[Dan Sierpina]

Some folks say they don't deburr and chamfer. I guess if you use only boat tail bullets you can get away with it. I batch process brass, size, delube, trim & chamfer, etc. I use a Gracey with a carbide cutter. That's the way I prefer to do it. The Giraud trimmer is a refinement of the Gracey.

[mlmiller1]

It depends on what you are loading for. If you want the absolute best accuracy loads, you probably will want to chamfer & debur but if you are shooting maybe 3-gun or some type of action shooting, I don't think it is necessary. If you look at factory brass, you will see it isn't beveled inside or out, that is the way mine looks coming out of the 1200b. Just depends on your level of compulsiveness or your need for maybe bench rest type accuracy. You have to decide. Either way if you have to chamfer & debur, that step is the same. If you decide you don't need to, then it is just that much faster. Two passes through my 650 & I have loaded rounds. Very simple, very quick.

Good luck!

MLM

[Mull]

It depends on what you are loading for. If you want the absolute best accuracy loads, you probably will want to chamfer & debur but if you are shooting maybe 3-gun or some type of action shooting, I don't think it is necessary. If you look at factory brass, you will see it isn't beveled inside or out, that is the way mine looks coming out of the 1200b. Just depends on your level of compulsiveness or your need for maybe bench rest type accuracy. You have to decide. Either way if you have to chamfer & debur, that step is the same. If you decide you don't need to, then it is just that much faster. Two passes through my 650 & I have loaded rounds. Very simple, very quick.

Good luck!

MLM

In .223 I'm loading for my 16" AR with a non-magnifying EOTech sight. It's accurate, but no benchrest gun. If I had the perfect cartridges that would put every bullet in the same hole, I wouldn't shoot remarkably better with it. I, personally, can't aim the EOTech sight MOA at 100 yards. But it does what I want it to.

So when you trim with the 1200B, the burr looks just like what you have with a standard trimmer?

Edited September 10, 2008 by Mull

[D.Hayden]

I'd adjust your sequence like this:

1. Tumble. (Not much effort on my part.)

2. Lube. (Not much effort on my part.)

3. Resize, deprime, trim using 1200B and trim die. (Done with a pull of the handle. Easy)

4. Tumble, Remove lube (this also cleans 99+% of burrs off)

5. Neck resize (make sure to clear the primer flash hole of media

6. Prime. (Done with the same pull of the handle from step 3. Easy)

7. Powder charge. (Done with the same pull of the handle from step 3. Easy)

8. Seat bullet and eject loaded cartridge from press. (I place the bullet above the case. Easy.)

I use all BT bullets.. like was posted above I don't chamfer.. and can't tell any difference to 200 yards...

[dillon]

The RT-1200 trimmer does an outside chamfer and deburr as it trims. The blade is set at a 4 degree outside angle.

For boat-tail bullets it is seldom necessary to inside chamfer. For flat-base bullets inside chamfering is recommended.

[shopgun]

Mull, You need to setup the trimmer on a separate toolhead. You trim and resize in this step, but the trim die does not deprime. tumble to delube. I back off my sizer die to not contact the case and set the decap/expander down far enough to deprime. Neck sizing is really not necessary since you already have full length resized in the trim die. Depriming at this point takes care of clearing media from the primer pockets and expanding the neck to proper size for bullet seating. They load as easy as pistol rounds this way. Jim S

[Mull]

This is just the info I wanted. Thanks!

[pdice]

I'd adjust your sequence like this:

1. Tumble. (Not much effort on my part.)

2. Lube. (Not much effort on my part.)

3. Resize, deprime, trim using 1200B and trim die. (Done with a pull of the handle. Easy)

4. Tumble, Remove lube (this also cleans 99+% of burrs off)

5. Neck resize (make sure to clear the primer flash hole of media

6. Prime. (Done with the same pull of the handle from step 3. Easy)

7. Powder charge. (Done with the same pull of the handle from step 3. Easy)

8. Seat bullet and eject loaded cartridge from press. (I place the bullet above the case. Easy.)

I use all BT bullets.. like was posted above I don't chamfer.. and can't tell any difference to 200 yards...

I'd like to use this same setup on a 550. I assume I need two toolheads, but I'm a little confused as to what would be in each toolhead.

Here's my first guess,

Toolhead1

==========

station 1 - Sizing/Depriming Die

station 2 - empty

station 3 - trim die connected to 1200B

station 4 - empty

Toolhead2

==========

station1 - ????? do you prime here? or on first toolhead?

station2 - powder die

station3 - seating die

station4 - taper crimp die

What am I missing?

[High Lord Gomer]

Toolhead1

==========

station 1 - Sizing/Depriming Die

station 2 - empty

station 3 - trim die connected to 1200B

station 4 - empty

Toolhead2

==========

station1 - ????? do you prime here? or on first toolhead?

station2 - powder die

station3 - seating die

station4 - taper crimp die

What am I missing?

I just started and that is my setup, with the addition that after Toolhead 1 I run them through the Dillon Swager, then vibra-clean with (relatively) clean corn cobb media to get the Dillon case lube off. On Toolhead 2 I run the decapping pin through (prior to priming) and found a surprising number of granules of corn cobb that got pushed out of the pimer picket and fell into the "old primer" catcher.

I'm glad to hear that the deburring isn't necessary for practice ammo, as that was the most tedious and painful part.

Edited December 8, 2008 by High Lord Gomer

[Religious Shooter]

Toolhead2

==========

station1 - ????? do you prime here? or on first toolhead?

station2 - powder die

station3 - seating die

station4 - taper crimp die

What am I missing?

With my 650 at the second toolhead:

1: Deprime and neck sizer die that also "expands" the case mouth a little. This die expands the case mouth. Which essentially 1) rolls out the mouth of the case --- this either knocks or rolls out the inner shavings that weren't taken off with the second tumbling --- and 2) flares the case a little so it's easier to seat the bullet. The flaring helps the bullet be seated without it being unduly shaved. With this die I noticed that there is a lot less copper debris --- the copper being shaved from the bullet with a rough case mouth.

I currently use the RCBS dies for this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/...leitemid=224751

2: Empty. I prime at this station.

3: Powder die.

4: Seating. (Lee)

5: Crimp. (Lee FCD)