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625 advise please


colbyjack

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what are you guys using for bobbed hammers? i did mine with the dremel but its really rough. i seen some that fit flush. are those home jobs or aftermarket?

what are people running for rear sights besides stock? i seen one that had a wider looked like a bomar rear sight. what are those?

also where are you guys coing in for your double action pulls? 7 pounds 6, 5????

what or how much does a scope mount cost if i ever want to run a cmore on it?

where does one find the apex items i read about on the forums. just thinking of whats out there and what i can do to my 625 to make it better. thanks. -chris

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The bobbed hammers are mostly done at home. I milled mine because I am a machinist and have access to a milling machine then ground and polished them with whatever tools I thought would work. A dremel tool was used.

I also do my own triggr jobs.

For the new frame mounted firing pin guns you can get the apex hammer from apextactical google it.

I have Millett rears sights on 4 of my guns with and front blades from SDM,EGW, and Williams.

Grips are Hogue, either wood or rubber.

Can't tell you a thing about a scope mount cause I don;t have optics on any of my revolvers.

I do have a mount that came on one of my guns but I took it off as soon as I go it and don't know who made it.

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Hi Chris,

I will have to second the recommendation of going to Carmoney for your action work. I would do that in an instant If I wasen't in Canada and didn't have to deal with the cross border thing.

As above you will get alot of advice in a hurry, we are a passionate bunch.

Sift through it all and go with what you like best.

TCF

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Thanks for the recommendation, guys! :)

I never talk people out of learning to work on their own guns, though, if they have some mechanical inclination. It's gratifying to know how things work, and to be able to fix and modify them to suit your needs. That's how I got started doing my own gun work 20 years ago.

There are lots of ways to lighten a hammer--most of you guys know by now what a Carmonized hammer looks like: http://members.aol.com/carmoney4/hammer2.jpg But there are other styles out there. Randy Lee markets his own Apex hammer--it's excellent, but really expensive--the working dimensions of a Randy hammer (i.e. the angles and bearing surfaces) are the same as factory. When his hammer was written up in American Hangunner magazine, they indicated that installing a lighter hammer will create a lighter action--this is not true, regardless whether the hammer is aftermarket or a modified stock part. The benefit of the lightened hammer is it will allow the action to be taken lighter, but this still requires careful tuning and balancing of the spring tensions.

Rear sights: Millett or LPA. The Millett has been my choice for many years, others really like the LPA.

Most of my competition action jobs (for well-seated Fed. primers only) come in right around 5.5 to 6 pounds DA--that's about where my own personal match guns are set up. Can you run them down under 5 pounds?--sure, but only by reducing the trigger rebound to levels that I believe are counter-productive. If you're not lightening the hammer (and doing a few other things that competition revolversmiths do), a safer range to shoot for is 6.5 to 7 pounds when you're getting started.

Good luck!

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I use a Dremel cut off wheel to start then a hobby size 1.5" belt sander to contour and finally the Dremel again with polishing wheels.

As Mike said, The Apex Hammer is an expensive well made part. I have a couple and like them. One is sitting and waiting to go into my 3" 610.

I do action work for carry & competition. My actions are not as light as others because I need heavier feel due to hand problems and I insist on good trigger return.

Every hammer you do will come out better than the the one before it. To start, you need to lay out what you want and not just go at it with tools. Draw lines on the hammer where you expect to end and work slowly to the lines.

There is a lot more to a true action job than chopping off a hammer and a lot of what you do is working to the end you want.

As for other options, sights as mentioned, a different type thumb release, and for the best C Mor mount you can find ask PinShooter

Edited by Round_Gun_Shooter
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As usual I am slower than most of the revo shooters but my 625 is Carmonized with a set of Hogue Big Butt rubber grips, LPA rear SDM front. I tried the Millet but it didn't have the elevation or rather lack of it that I needed even with a taller front sight.

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PM me if you're serious. I have Carmonized a few hammers for people in the past, no big thing. Earlier this year I did four hammers for one forum member! Saves a bunch compared to shipping the whole gun if you can get the action set up properly otherwise.

I'm not aware of anybody selling a cut-down or bobbed N-frame hammer (other than Apex, of course).

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are both rear sights good? my buddy has one not sure what it is, but the rear blade moves or tilts. i dont like that it has play in it. also i seen in the brownells book theres different hieghts, whats the factory height on the rear. i use a .250" front sight.

mike sent you a PM on the hammer. -chris

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are both rear sights good? my buddy has one not sure what it is, but the rear blade moves or tilts. i dont like that it has play in it. also i seen in the brownells book theres different hieghts, whats the factory height on the rear. i use a .250" front sight.

mike sent you a PM on the hammer. -chris

Chris

Your friends sight sounds like this one

http://www.jackweigand.com/smith_wesson_rear_blade.html

I don't like them because as you said "it moves or tilts".

I prefer the .360 Millet rear with an SDM .300 front.

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Hi Guys,

I love the weigand rear blades, and SDM fibre optic fronts. I am a big fan ( and just big in general ) of Apex hammers. I also like the feel of a Ti Cylinder in a 625. ( but that is a personal thing ) I feel as though it reduces the felt torquing of the gun at speed. I agree with Mike, if you are confident to try this work yourself, give it a go....however, if not, you can save hours and hours at the bench, by just sending the gun to Mike.....tell him you are prepared to pay extra for an Apex hammer. <_<

Mark

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Be sure you want that hammer spur gone. I was about to ship mine to Mike to Carmonizin' it, but then found my self using it on a Texas Star last week. Sure, If I was a better shooter I wouldn't have needed it, but had I not had the single action option I would still be there shooting.... On the flip side I fully removed the spur/hump on a defensive gun and love it.

BTW, has anyone tried Bowen's Rough Country S&W sights? I'm interested in the V notch.

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Be sure you want that hammer spur gone. I was about to ship mine to Mike to Carmonizin' it, but then found my self using it on a Texas Star last week. Sure, If I was a better shooter I wouldn't have needed it, but had I not had the single action option I would still be there shooting.... On the flip side I fully removed the spur/hump on a defensive gun and love it.

BTW, has anyone tried Bowen's Rough Country S&W sights? I'm interested in the V notch.

I went that route for a spell, tried the v-notch and decided I wasn't shooting accurate enough with it. I think it made me lazy with my vision, I was settling for less on the sight picture. I have the regular notch sight on it now on my 617 and it is wonderful. I have just recently got glasses that are set up to let me see my sights and they are great! I now prefer a normal notch and post.

41mag

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I've had no luck with Apex hammer. I fired several emails but no reply. Is there other sites we can get these hammers?

You have to call and talk to Randy. Last I heard, he was chained to his bench and couldn't reach his computer :roflol:

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