LongHair1957 Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 Does anyone use Slide Glide in the AR's??? (I'm sure that some of you do!) If so do you just use it on the main recoil spring in the tube or do you also use it on the bolt carrier?...I am happy with my Jewell trigger with just a little snake oil though. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikW Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 I don't think my rifle liked it... http://64.62.172.100/~brianeno/index.php?a...&f=2&t=300&st=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 I think SG is just too viscous for an AR. You could try loading up the mainspring with SG just kill the "slinky" sound and Brian would love you for it. I'm not sure it would enhance the reliability though. I'm pretty sure I've heard/read that Jake Kempton just fills his upper with grease and never cleans it, but I'm guessing he's using Lubriplate or something of a similar viscosity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 Slide Glide is definitely too viscous for the bolt, or carrier. The grease packing Kempton uses is OK for High Power, and IPSC rifles that use a heavy bolt carrier, full length recoil spring, and a full on gas system (Derrick Martin does the same thing in his personal National Match M-16, which is probably where Kempton picked up on the technique). It is anathema on any lo-mass operating system and tuned down gas system because of the stiction it adds to bolt carrier movement. I do use Slide Glide in the spring cavity on one of my AR lowers that I shoot with a standard recoil system, and heavy bolt carrier. I use a thinner lithium grease in my JP rifle's spring cavity because I have the Lo-Mass operating system there. The grease does reduce sproing, just make sure that there is not so much there that you start to get hydraulic action in the spring tube. I use nothing but light oils on the bolt, and carrier in any AR. Lube the bolt lugs, outside of carrier key, and contact areas on carrier body lightly with Breakfree, or other similar lube (I use the red JP #2 at present). Another trick I use to enhance extended trouble free operation is a drop or two of Kroil, or other light penetrating oil in the bolt carrier holes about every 100 rounds. Keeps things slick inside the bolt. I would use nothing but a Moly, or similar type compound intended for triggers on the sear engagement areas. Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 Last week I received a phone order from a fella, who was also ordering a bunch for his buddies, who just loooved it on his AR. I remember he order 4 Lites, two #1's, and two #3's. I can't remember where he used what, but I know he used it on the bolt and carrier. And from what I've read here, I'm guessing the Lite would be the choice. Okay, I found his order and called him. He said, first, they are in Vegas, so it's typically very hot. So, typically, he uses the Lite on the bolt and lugs, and then depending on temperature, he'll use #1, or if it's in the 110 degree zone even #3, on the carrier rails. He also had four JP guns with the lo-mass carriers and he also uses it on those. He also said, depending on temperature, he may mix the Lite and #1 for the bolt and lugs. be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loves2Shoot Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 It definitely helps with the spring noise (yuk) and it worked fine on my bolt/carrier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benny hill Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 MOBIL 1 ON EVERYTHING, EVERY GUN. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongHair1957 Posted May 30, 2003 Author Share Posted May 30, 2003 Well I have the #1...I will try it on the buffer spring first....if it feels good there I'll add it to some more spots!! Cause I want to feel good all over....so I'll go a little at a time!!! A little snake oil here and some SG there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino Posted May 31, 2003 Share Posted May 31, 2003 AR purists will say nothing by CLP on your AR. Some of them will have strokes or heart attacks if you suggest putting grease anywhere near the bolt carrier. ARs do work best with a light oil. CLP (either breakfree, Royco, or whatever) will always work. I use Tetra Lube Oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted May 31, 2003 Share Posted May 31, 2003 Ya know, I tried the #1 Slide Glide on the bolt carriers in my EA-15 upper, and on my JP upper when I first got it, but found it a real hard starter on cold mornings. So I switched back to lite lubes for all weather cycling reasons (I live in Northern CA). I'm still a firm believer in the lite lube on the bolt/carrier routine for most climates. I also believe the US Military is still specifying a CLP as the proper lube for the M16 in all but arctic conditions, with LSA still recommended if CLP is not available. My personal experience bears out the use of lite lubes like LSA, or CLP in, and on the AR bolt assembly for best functioning in all climates, and conditions. The lithium grease I use in my JP spring cavity is an all temp, low viscosity type. Function is everything in an IPSC (or duty) rifle. Re-shoots for malfs are only given at High Power Rifle competitions. Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted June 3, 2003 Share Posted June 3, 2003 George, Have you tried the Lite? I've been hearing it's the ticket. I have to respectfully disagree with Benny's (shouted) Mobol One on everything. After having tested most every lube in the universe on a friction brake machine, which of course only tests one aspect of lubricant's ability to prevent excess wear, I've seen that virtually all motor oil - petroleum based or synthetic - tests exactly the same in the realm of preventing wear due to friction. There's just nothing special about synthetic oil, except that it will last longer than conventional oil before it begins to break down. On a pistol I hardly think this would be an issue. Automobile oil was designed to work in the environment of an automobile's engine. The guy who engineered the Glide was a lubrication engineer for General Motors, as well as a long time shooter, so he's familiar with the two very different lubrication requirements of a pistol and an automobile. Using that knowledge is where the Glide came from. An car's engine is constantly pumping a fresh supply of oil to the engines moving parts; your gun does not. Probably the most important characteristic of any lube that is not being continuously replenished is that it actually remains where it is needed (BETWEEN sliding or rotating parts) for a long period of time. That's where the Glide is rock solid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted June 3, 2003 Share Posted June 3, 2003 I use Slide Glide in my Gubmint model thuddy 8 souper, in my lever action thuddy thuddy, and on my Dillon & RCBS presses. It makes them all pretty much maintenance free, and is a 100% winner in these applications. My SIG P-226 works fine slopped up, or dry, so I keep it mostly dry because it's my social gun. I don't lube Glocks at all (never have, never will), so there is one place I haven't actually tried SG. My AR's and shotguns get different treatment because of my own experience. I have tried a lot of AR, and shotgun lube schemes, and pretty much agree that what works in someones own gun, in their own environmental conditions is what anyone should use. No size fits all for these applications. Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino Posted June 3, 2003 Share Posted June 3, 2003 An car's engine is constantly pumping a fresh supply of oil to the engines moving parts; your gun does not.Probably the most important characteristic of any lube that is not being continuously replenished is that it actually remains where it is needed (BETWEEN sliding or rotating parts) for a long period of time. If I may be so bold, Your Eminence, you have very clearly stated The Key to this discussion. It's why grease (of some suitable kind) is the thing for pistol slide rails! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twix Posted June 3, 2003 Share Posted June 3, 2003 George, May I ask where and of what type of SG you use on your Dillion press? I like that maintainence free aspect. Tom Bergman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted June 3, 2003 Share Posted June 3, 2003 May I ask where and of what type of SG you use on your Dillion press? I like that maintainence free aspect. Hi twix, I use the #1, because that's what I have, and use for my .38 souper. I put a little under the shell plate on the bearing bolt, and ball bearing. A light coating on the surface of the ram shaft (upper, and lower areas), and on/in all of the ram hinge pins (I dis-assembled, lubed, and re-assembled the whole ram mechanism to do this). What it does for me is stay where I put it. It also doesn't get as grungy from powder spill, and decapping swarf as any of the other lubes I have tried, (lithium grease, motor oil, and RIG grease), so I can leave it alone a whole lot longer (7-8 months with nothing but cleaning the primer bar, and the top of the shell plate so far). George, Have you tried the Lite? I've been hearing it's the ticket. Hi Brian, No, and I probably should give it a shot. I'll give you a call and order some. Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Anderson Posted June 3, 2003 Share Posted June 3, 2003 I'm a new ar owner...I tried the slide glide lite on the bolt carrier cut with a smidge of fp-10. Gun runs great. SA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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