Pic of door breaching frame.

[Brazos]

Does anyone have a pic, or a link to a pic, of a breaching door that can be used in a match? I know I have seen one recently...maybe in Frontsight.

The door is a barricade frame that has a stick holding the door closed...shoot the stick to "breach" the door.

Thanks,

B

[jasmap]

Here's some links with info and pictures.

http://www.breachingtechnologiesinc.com/

http://www.breachingtools.com/Breaching%20Doors.html

http://www.letargets.com/html/breach.html

http://www.policeone.com/police-products/t...releases/99892/

[CraigS.]

The breaching doors you saw in front sight were at the R&R racing Multigun 07 in Albany,OR

Everybody thought these were great targets built by Robert Wright just for his match.

Contact Robert at http://www.randrracingonline.com/index.htm

Here's some pics and a video of the doors in action http://jerrythegeek.arpc-ipsc.org/gallery/7rm7?page=1

Craig

[Jim Norman]

At Old bridge we have done essentially the same thing, but we just cut a slot into a door and did a little reinforcing.

I like the steel frame and the door closer (I assume it is mounted to open rather than close the door?) but I would be concerned about back splatter from the steel.

What we have done is as said, cut a regular door, and we set it up with a weight that will pull the door open and also occasinally activate moving targets.

Jim

[davidwiz]

At the 1st Fort Benning 3-Gun match, they had such a stage. The door was a normal interior wooden door with the door knob and lock removed. Inside the hole where the lock went, was a wooden dowel that was went from the door into the door frame, keeping the door closed. With a supplied pump-shotgun, you started the stage by shooting the wooden dowel, ditched the shotgun and went on your merry way. I don't think there is a need to spend hundreds of dollars on a special door. A cheap plywood closet door should work fine.

[Jim Norman]

What Dave says is pretty much correct.

What we did was to make the opening in the door large enough so that all the people that miss with a SG didn't blow the door apart.

We have done a couple of different breeching scenarios; SG, Foot, and Ram

For Foot and Ram, we reinforced the stiking area on the door with 3/4 Plywood and then bolted a block of wood to the door to serve as a pin stop, on the Door Jamb, we also bolted a block, reinforced with a stell angle and put 1/2 inch wood dowels into it and across the back of the door. When you breech the door, it breaks the dowels, the pieces just fall away and to reset, you siply push teh dowel rod through, when you get to the end of a 3 foot dowel, insert a new one and keep going.

For the SG breech, we made two steel straps that would hold a 1 x 2 (3) in place, these were cut to about 12 inches or so and placed into the steel straps, the straps are sort of a flat "Z" arranged to that the wood will fall out the bottom when broken, it is held in plce by the preasure of the door opener weight pack. Break the wood with your SG and the door flys open (away from you) and the targets start moving (if so arranged) One fairly cheap door lasts quite a while, If I were doing it again, i would get 3/4 Plywoods and build up my own doors using two layers of plywood and strap hinges, Remember, this isn't going in your house! As long as there is nothing to snag your gear on, it is agood to go.

Jim

[barrysuperhawk]

Sorry for dredging up an old topic, but here are pix of a breachable door I made for one of my 3 gun matches.

I had the spring hinges set to open the door, and used the Lath to keep it shut. The white plate is in front of the only part that could ricochet, and was so any errant shots would be safely deflected. The door was built out of 2x2 and plastic cardboard sinage. The staples with the disks were great at holding it togeather.

Edited January 12, 2009 by barrysuperhawk

[barrysuperhawk]

more pix.

[Jim Norman]

Nice pics. Very similar to what we have done at Old Bridge for a Shotgun Breeching.

We have also reinforced a door and frame to allow use to insert 3 1/2" dowels to hold the door shut and used a battering ram to bust the door open.

I like the spring hinge idea. We use a weight and pin system so that the dropping weight opens the door ans well as pulls the activator on a mover.

Jim

[d5357]

great thread, i went looking for pictures, we want to build a breaching door here at my local club, i found the following pictures from R&R multi gun match.

[barrysuperhawk]

I initially designed it with a weight and string setup, but the results were not consistant. If the wind blew, sometimes the dorr would open itself, or worse, not open the same way for each competitor. By using the spring hinges, the lath was always under tension and the door only opened when it was broken or removed. Once the lath was broken, the opening was always consistant.

This was an adaptation of an existing wall prop, but if I was building from scratch I would make it a full 36" wide. The base for the spring hinges needs to be very sturdy, as does the top and bottom arms. the stuff in the middle needs to be as light as possible. I used plastic nudo-board commonly available in the trashcan at any convenience store [evidence the Bud Select price of $11.99 for a 24 pack visible when the sun shines through.] The frame also needs to be alot sturdier than a standard door and If I was building it from scratch I would plan for the door and sidewalls to resemble this: \_/ rather than the |_| that I used, just for stability.

Note: For the pictures I had already shot all of my lath so I had to rig up a couple of broken pieces to hold it shut for the pictures...

Feel free to email any questions...

Edited January 13, 2009 by barrysuperhawk