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Hammer moving


Deepak

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Hi All

I got a Caspian 38 Super. As I press the trigger, I notice that the hammer tends to slowly move (creep) forward. Is there a problem with the hammer or the sear? I got a Titanium hammer (old) with a normal (new) sear.

Secondly, when I rack the slide whilst pressing the trigger, the hammer follows. (The trigger seems to be around 1 pound).

Finally, how many degrees is the angle on the hammer where the sear "sits" in?

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At the very least I would replace the hammer. If it were my gun I would replace the hammer, sear, disconector and the sear spring and probably would require a new thumb safety. If you are not schooled in fitting those parts (especially the thumb safety) you should see your local gunsmith.

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Thanks for the advice.

I have inserted a brand new hammer, but when I press the trigger, the hammer does not go down. Do you think I should remove some metal off the area adjacent to the hammer legs?? Is the sear fitted too tight against the legs??

Got a competition on this week and there is no gun smith in town. So I was hopping I can make the gun at least reliable.

Deepak

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With all due respect, if you need to ask these questions, you should be having a 'smith do the work. A full-auto experience or even a single ND will really put a damper on your match day.

/Bryan

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With all due respect, if you need to ask these questions, you should be having a 'smith do the work. A full-auto experience or even a single ND will really put a damper on your match day.

/Bryan

+ 1,000 :blink: If you have to ask you should not be doing it, I have seen more than a few guns that will fire with the safe ON.

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Hi All

I got a Caspian 38 Super. As I press the trigger, I notice that the hammer tends to slowly move (creep) forward. Is there a problem with the hammer or the sear? I got a Titanium hammer (old) with a normal (new) sear.

Secondly, when I rack the slide whilst pressing the trigger, the hammer follows. (The trigger seems to be around 1 pound).

Finally, how many degrees is the angle on the hammer where the sear "sits" in?

The sear hook/hammer face angle is too positive. The hammer should cam back ever so slightly as you pull the trigger.

I am a home gunsmith, but the 1911 sear and hammer fits are so critical I don't even attempt to screw with them. You must have the cutting fixtures to get them right.

Edited by bountyhunter
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The hammer should cam back ever so slightly as you pull the trigger.
You must have the cutting fixtures to get them right.

Neither statement is necessarily correct, but the advice to see a professional is good.

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The hammer should cam back ever so slightly as you pull the trigger.
You must have the cutting fixtures to get them right.

Neither statement is necessarily correct, but the advice to see a professional is good.

You think an inexperienced person can cut a 1911 sear and hammer hook without a fixture and get it right?

OK

As for the hammer camming back: if the face surfaces are "square cut" then there should be some deflection. If the face is "radius cut" then it might hold position because the face is cut to hold a constant radius. If you have a square surfaced hammer and sear face that does not deflect as the trigger is pulled, it has some positive angle on it and is more prone to follow. It can still work if the sear spring is jacked up enough, I would not set up a gun that way.

Edited by bountyhunter
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Thanks guys for the guidance.

After reading your responses I did not even open the gun as yet.

But I managed to find a retired gunsmith with a sear jig.

Hopefully he can recut the hammer and sear again and get the

geometry right.

Thanks once again.

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