bountyhunter Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 OK, a Glock actually has no sear. The upraised tab on the trigger bar that mates with the foot on the striker is what acts as the sear. I polished the foot of the striker mirror smooth. Any tips on what the "sear" face should be like? I polished it very smooth. Do you keep it dead square to the tab? Cut a relief angle face at the top to get a cleaner break? Just looking for any advice. I have the Sotelo trigger and the pull is decent, but there is some annoying "stutter creep" as I pull and that sear face drags it's way across the striker face on the way to release. I'm just wondering how you guys get rid of this.... if it is possible. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SA Friday Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 Huh, I have two Sotelo trigger kits and neither had this issue. I would suspect it might be coming from the machining marks on the foot of the striker. The 'sear' on both of mine were already polished smooth. I would recommend polishing the striker foot, but not to a highly polished finish. Just enough to get possible machining marks out of it. The other thing you could do is put a steel (Ti coated) Lightning Strike striker in and see if this makes the creep disappear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proraptor Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 I took the tab to a grinding stone at an angles and not only is my pull much lighter but the break is super crisp.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 I took the tab to a grinding stone at an angles and not only is my pull much lighter but the break is super crisp.... One note of caution about removing metal at that point: It's easily possible to remove so much metal, that you'll create a trigger that will double, triple, or not stop until ammo supply ceases..... Proceed with caution, reassemble the gun, pull the trigger, hold it to the rear, cycle the slide and lister for striker fall. If absent, listen for striker fall as you release the trigger forward. Do this in a few orientations, and be very cautious in the first live fire session.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBuzzard Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 The jerky trigger creep feel is likely at the connector and trigger bar interface. Polish well in this area, or even pop in another connector or trigger bar - you should keep extras anyway and they are cheap. After polishing and such, try different combinations of connectors and trigger bars. Each combination will have a slightly different feel. BB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proraptor Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 I took the tab to a grinding stone at an angles and not only is my pull much lighter but the break is super crisp.... One note of caution about removing metal at that point: It's easily possible to remove so much metal, that you'll create a trigger that will double, triple, or not stop until ammo supply ceases..... Proceed with caution, reassemble the gun, pull the trigger, hold it to the rear, cycle the slide and lister for striker fall. If absent, listen for striker fall as you release the trigger forward. Do this in a few orientations, and be very cautious in the first live fire session.... was aware of this before I did the modification and did a little then fired and so forth....I got the trigger where I wanted it and it shoots great....Very risky though so Im not sure I can reccomend the modification. I figured why not as Im going to buy a glockworx trigger kit anyways.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 Huh, I have two Sotelo trigger kits and neither had this issue. I would suspect it might be coming from the machining marks on the foot of the striker. The 'sear' on both of mine were already polished smooth. I would recommend polishing the striker foot, but not to a highly polished finish. Just enough to get possible machining marks out of it. The other thing you could do is put a steel (Ti coated) Lightning Strike striker in and see if this makes the creep disappear. I polished the striker foot dead smooth to a mirror finish first thing when I started working on the trigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 I took the tab to a grinding stone at an angles and not only is my pull much lighter but the break is super crisp.... Interesting. Is there any standard angles and cuts to put on the tab like there are for a 1911 sear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 (edited) I took the tab to a grinding stone at an angles and not only is my pull much lighter but the break is super crisp.... One note of caution about removing metal at that point: It's easily possible to remove so much metal, that you'll create a trigger that will double, triple, or not stop until ammo supply ceases..... Yep, I have gotten into some heated discussions with brain dead Glock worshippers at other forums on this point: the firing pin safety on a Glock does not "reset" everytime the slide cycles (and require a new trigger pull to reactivate) like a SIG, Beretta, XD, etc does which have the pivoting lever to raise the FP safety plunger. The Glock FP "safety" plunger is simply raised by the trigger bar bump. If you fire the gun and the slide cycles, your finger will still be on the trigger when it comes back into battery (so the trigger bar is still where it is when the gun fires and the bump is raising the FP safety plunger )..... and the striker tab will be hanging on the trigger bar "hook" with the striker spring fully stretched. If you get too aggressive and have that cut overlay area too thin, the slide hitting the frame MIGHT let the striker bump past and fall (and you have a machine gun in your hand).That makes me nervous about cutting on the striker tab. Edited December 20, 2007 by bountyhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 (edited) The jerky trigger creep feel is likely at the connector and trigger bar interface. Polish well in this area, or even pop in another connector or trigger bar - you should keep extras anyway and they are cheap. After polishing and such, try different combinations of connectors and trigger bars. Each combination will have a slightly different feel. BB Yeah, the one from Sotelo is better than the stock one. I have mirror polished both the connecter face and the trigger bar faces. That did make it better, still feels a little creepy. Edited December 20, 2007 by bountyhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BR Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 I like Ralph's triggers. They really helped my initial confidence with a glock. In the race for a better mouse-trap, I also tried to change and clean up aspects of that trigger, with different connectors and various levels of polishing. I spent more money on various parts than a Vanek production trigger Then I tried Charlie Vanek's trigger, and I've purchased a second for my back-up production gun, I love it that much. I've come to appreciate that I don't have the time, or even the inclination, to improve upon it. With the adjustable trigger stop, the trigger definitely does not hold me back. It's that good. Plus, at this point it really is not about the minute differences in the trigger. Save your money and time for reloading. Cheers. -br Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 Then I tried Charlie Vanek's trigger, and I've purchased a second for my back-up production gun, I love it that much. and time for reloading. Cheers.-br Everybody says it's the cat's pajamas.My problem is that I am cursed with two engineering degrees and like to think I can figure out how to make two mechanical pieces fit together and work to my satisfaction.... I usually can.... eventually..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proraptor Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Then I tried Charlie Vanek's trigger, and I've purchased a second for my back-up production gun, I love it that much. and time for reloading. Cheers.-br Everybody says it's the cat's pajamas.My problem is that I am cursed with two engineering degrees and like to think I can figure out how to make two mechanical pieces fit together and work to my satisfaction.... I usually can.... eventually..... Im like you and love to tinker....I have my trigger pull weight now under 2lbs with the mod I did to the trigger bar where it hits the sear and a lightened striker spring....The pull is still long though....Im going to keep tinkering with my stock setup....Cause Im going to buy a glock worx trigger asap (maybe this weekend) as I have finally have fallen in love with a trigger for a glock after trying most of the top triggers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 Cause Im going to buy a glock worx trigger asap (maybe this weekend) as I have finally have fallen in love with a trigger for a glock after trying most of the top triggers... I'll check that one out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Vanek Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 I haven't touched the sear with anything in over two years. Listen to Nik on this one - sooner or later it will cause trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micah Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 I haven't touched the sear with anything in over two years. Listen to Nik on this one - sooner or later it will cause trouble. Well, after hearing from the man that wrote the book on Glock triggers, I think that this myth is busted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glockwerkes Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 ...but there is some annoying "stutter creep" as I pull and that sear face drags it's way across the striker face on the way to release. I'm going to take a different track on this. I've noticed something similar in some of my unmodified triggers, so it may be worth a look. Turn the gun upside down and look into the magazine well as the trigger cycles. Pay attention to the feel of the trigger as the post of the trigger bar engages the striker saftey plunger. On mine, you can feel a "stutter" as it rides up the bevel on the plunger. Thats why I put a nice, smooth, very polished radius on it to eliminate the ramp. I originally picked up this trick on one of the forums. My other suggestion is to get one of the orange armorer's cover plates (or grind a stock one down) and use it to observe the striker and trigger cruciform in action, perhaps you can ascertain the source of your stutter. Best of luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 I haven't touched the sear with anything in over two years. Listen to Nik on this one - sooner or later it will cause trouble. Well, after hearing from the man that wrote the book on Glock triggers, I think that this myth is busted. yee up Jim M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demetrio Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 OK, a Glock actually has no sear. The upraised tab on the trigger bar that mates with the foot on the striker is what acts as the sear. Would be it possible for someone to post a picture of this exact Glock part that acts as the sear? Thanks, Demetrio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micah Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 Here ya go Demetrio: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SA Friday Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 Dude, just shoot everything smooth. Between dryfiring and shooting, everything will get smoother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demetrio Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 (edited) Here ya go Demetrio: Great, Pharaoh, thank you very much. Now another "easy" question: for competition purposes, how should the angle of the contact/escape surface of the Glock "sear" ideally be, 90 degrees (as it seems to be originally designed), more than this, or less than this? Now, where did I put that arkansas stone set I got long ago? Demetrio. Edited December 22, 2007 by Demetrio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micah Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 To be honest Demetrio, I could not say...I have never tooled around with this part of the trigger bar. It bears pointing out that the father of competition Glocks, Charlie Vanek, has weighed in on this topic and stated that when he makes a Glock trigger the absolute best that it can be, he does not modify the sear. Nothing wrong with asking good questions, I just feel that you are looking for something that isn't there. Why not send Charlie a pm? As busy as he is, he always makes time for people with questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demetrio Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proraptor Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 (edited) To be honest Demetrio, I could not say...I have never tooled around with this part of the trigger bar. It bears pointing out that the father of competition Glocks, Charlie Vanek, has weighed in on this topic and stated that when he makes a Glock trigger the absolute best that it can be, he does not modify the sear. Nothing wrong with asking good questions, I just feel that you are looking for something that isn't there. Why not send Charlie a pm? As busy as he is, he always makes time for people with questions. There is actually something there....Less contact surface between the "sear" and the stiker the crisper and lighter pull....Vanek might not modify that piece and work on other areas (there are many other ways to accomplish the same thing without modifying the "sear") but to say it doesnt do something is wrong Edited December 22, 2007 by proraptor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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