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Fast, Gentle Idpa Holster For 1911?


2cats

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Fast, gentle IDPA holster?

I'm looking for a recommendation. I've used a Talon Tactical with my Wilson, and it stripped it to bare metal. I bought a Ky-tac specifically for a new gun, and after I loosened it to the point of basically no retention, it contacted the gun very strongly on the round near the front sight, and looked like it would polish it in a hurry. I've got a Wilson Practical, I think it's called, and while I'm sure it's very gentle, it's godawful slow.

I'm into OWB verticals. Is there any Kydex that will do the job? I mean, I know plastic will wear the gun, but I'd rather not have gratuitous unnecessary contact that does not aid in retention wear the gun. My Sidearmors for my Glocks look like they are carefully made enough to meet the criteria, but they are not going to make left handed 1911 holsters. Is any Kydex carefully made? Blade Tech? Leather?

Many thanks,

2cats

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I'm into OWB verticals. Is there any Kydex that will do the job? ........... not going to make left handed 1911 holsters. Is any Kydex carefully made?

Two Cats,

I'm also left handed.........

Have used 4 of the {Kydex} brands you mention and have gone with Cen-Dex for everything {with the exception of some the KyTac's I already own}.

Only have his stuff for Glocks & H&K's so far but 1911 is next.

It's hard to judge but the Cen-Dex "Storm" OWB has proven much kinder to my Glocks finishes. Also is very fast, ruggedly over-built & very easy to dial-in the precise tension adjustment for draw.

No BS or long wait even for building LH modesl too!

Cen-Dex

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This is just a general, semi-rhetorical question for the crowd . . .

Why does it matter if a holster causes wear on a gun's finish?

For that matter, any holster that comes in contact with the slide will eventually produce visible wear on the slide. In my experience, the problem with Kydex holsters arises primarily when they get dirty and the grit gets embedded in the plastic, which then abraded the gun. If you keep them clean, wear on the slide should be minimal, and even less if you use something like armorall.

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You're right - after 2.5 years coming out of Kydex in heavy IDPA use, my $460 Glock is showing a small, barely perceptible wear spot on the muzzle. Unavoidable wear from a good holster that offers some semblance of retention, I have no problem with. Randomly chipping and grinding down Armor Tuff, I don't think is necessary and unavoidable. The new gun is stainless. The Kytac contacts it on the slide near the sight, and I don't think this is necessary (I don't think it aids in retention, and it can't increase the holster's speed), nor do I think it's unavoidable (I believe these holsters are made by folding hot plastic around a gun, or facsimile, and I don't think it's done very reproducibly. Sidearmors appear to be injection molded).

I just don't want to polish my rounds for no good reason.

The CenDex stuff looks very nice, with the one whine that it requires shims to get down to my 1.5" belt.

Any fast leather out there?

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"The CenDex stuff looks very nice, with the one whine that it requires shims to get down to my 1.5" belt."

I don't like that shim either.......But it's made from hard rubber. Once I put it in the loop I forgot about it altogether, FWIW.

"The Kytac contacts it on the slide near the sight, and I don't think this is necessary...."

This is exactly where the KyTac I have for a G34 wears on the slide!

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Since you already have the wilson practical, can I ask why it is slow for you?

Is the barrel cut too high, or is it sticking on the way out?

They come pretty tight, but the Anderson holster shop has a top secret technique that involves the holster, gun, a cleaning brush and a desk lamp that makes the wilson practical quick as can be.

Put the gun in the holster, slide the brush between the gun and holster flat, not wide, and put under the lamp for two hours. Let the whole rig cool with the brush still in, and you'll be freed up just fine.

I came in second in the Ohio state camps shoot-off in the OPEN div. with a Beretta out of a wilson practical with a docter sight. (nobody else entered production) The holster is fast enough.

SA

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This is just a general, semi-rhetorical question for the crowd . . .

Why does it matter if a holster causes wear on a gun's finish?

It doesn't.

In my experience, the problem with Kydex holsters arises primarily when they get dirty and the grit gets embedded in the plastic, which then abraded the gun. If you keep them clean, wear on the slide should be minimal, and even less if you use something like armorall.

In my experience, it doesn't really matter how clean you keep the holster. Kydex is going to wear the finish fast, regardless. Just my experience, mind you. The good news is that the wear swiftly gets to certain point, then stops. I don't worry about it. I really couldn't care less how pretty and new my gun looks. I care how well it works. I prefer to think of the wear marks on my .45's slide and frame as if they were the wrinkles and laugh lines on an old friend's face.

I used to have a girlfriend who was a serious gun nut; she believed that any self-respecting handgun should be all black, and that guns looked so much better once they'd picked up some finish wear. Too bad I haven't seen her for years. She'd love my Wilson carry/match gun these days.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I sold my Safariland 560-something CustomFit. I just ordered a Cen-Dex Lo Boy in clear PETG so everybody can see my Grock's wear, or lack thereof. I be styling with it and faux carbon fiber Safariland mag holders.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the Cen-Dex Lo Boy Ice in the mail yesterday... it's slick as snot and very secure, even with the tension adjuster backed way out. I wish it protruded more from the body and I wish I could adjust the angle of the gun, but it's not a race holster. It is not yet approved for IDPA competition; it is awaiting the blessings of the powers-that-be.

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