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Good deal on a Bridgeport?


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I wasn't planning to buy a mill until after I finished a machinist course at a local community college, but I found this mill three hours from my house (Thanks to a link Matt Cheely gave me over a year ago).

Is this a good deal? I talked to Dave Manson a couple years ago about a Bridgeport and was under the asssumption that around $4500 for a good used mill would be a fair deal. Should I hold out, spend the extra money and buy a CNC mill.

Here are the details:

Bridgeport 9" x 42" Vertical Milling Machine

Model: Series I

Table size - 9" x 42"

Spindle speeds, variable - 60 - 4200 RPM

Spindle taper - 30

Longitudinal travel - 27"

Cross travel - 13"

Knee travel - 14"

Quill travel - 5"

Motor - 1.5 HP / 1730 RPM

Volts - 220 / 440 volts

Phase - 3

Cycles - 60

Amps - 4.4 / 2.2

Approximate dimensions - 57" x 58" x 82" high

Approximate weight - 2,750 lbs.

Features:

2-axis digital readout

Bijur lubrication system

Variable speed

Collet set

6" vise

Stock Number: - 11773 -

Price: $5,450

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Around here used Bridgeports seem to go for $2-$3K, (add about $250-$500 for good DROs) and there aren't even that many around, unlike the more industrial areas where they seem to be a dime a dozen. Clones, off-brands and beaters go for less.. (a few weeks ago I saw a decent XLO with DROs for $1800/obo). Bridgeports are big enough that the average home shop guy might really want one, but often has no place for it, so demand is less. Getting all the tooling you can with it also bumps the price up, but is usually worth it.

If you don't have 3-phase 220 and it needs it, get a VFD. One that'll drive a 1.5 HP BP can be had for under $300.

Punch "Bridgeport" into eBay to check prices.

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Shred is right, the days of getting a 3 phase motor and capacitors to make 3 phase are over. A varible frequency drive is the way to go. Just plug in 220 single phase and the drive converts it. Automation Direct sells both the cheaper chinese made and also the little better japanese ones. The Hitachi L100-015NFU is $294 plus shipping and there are a lot of less expensive drives out there. Plus with the belt drive Bridgeports you can vary your rpm slightly with the drive. DRO used to be pretty expensive for the hobbiest but now they have units that bolt on the machine similiar to a dial caliper. Not quite as good but they work.

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I'll add a little bit of a different perspective. All the NC controls in the world won't substitute for real machining skills. Any manual mill with a basic X/Y read out is more than enough for most work. Numeric controls are fantastic and allow for tons of operations that are impossible by hand, but the skill of running a machine and understanding by feel why a end mill should run at one speed vs another is irreplacable. All the education in the world won't substitute for the smell, touch, and noise of running a machine by hand...

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Might also consider that the R-8 tooling is going to be much more common than the 30.

+1 on that! Had a 30 taper machine the last place I worked---boss got a "really good

deal" on it. 30 toolholders are not all that common. If you are going into semi-production

mode, find a 40 taper machine. If it's a hobby mill for one-off jobs stay with R8.

The mill sitting in my shop is a 9x49 Bridgeport clone, x-y power feed, x-y and quill DRO's,

2 hp variable speed drive. It does everything I want it to do at the present time.

I've got under $4000 in it all tooled up.

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I was in a shop today that the owner got a Bridgeport EZ-Trak CNC knee mill for 4k at an auction over a year ago. Was in good shape except the computer wouldn't boot. I installed a new computer and machine is running like a champ. Also updated software but that really wasn't required. He didn't have a manual and I had a PDF file of the manual for the new software.

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A good manual mill is really nice to have around. For simple cuts like ramp cutting a frame they are WORLDS faster and easier to set up than a CNC. I have a couple million dollars worth of high end CNC mills and EDM, both wire and ram, equipment that I can use anytime I want to ( I work for a CNC builder ) but there are plenty of times where I would much rather use a good solid manual mill. When you need CNC you really do need CNC, but for most jobs a manual mill and a skilled hand are all it takes.

I don't think I would spend more than about $2000 on a knee mill, and at that price it will have to be in good condition with working 3 axis DRO and enough tooling to get going.

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It really depends on good the deal is based on the overall condition of the machine. If some one really took care of it and preformed the proper maintenance it should last longer than you.

I am in the Washington/Oregon area and am looking for one if anyone has one to move........

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