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OKO vs C-More


Tom E

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Help, I need opinions, pro and con. I've been spoiled by window (tubeless) dot sights. I have an OKO (8 min) on my Browning 22 semi-auto for bullseye and pins. Love it. I have a 38mm Tasco on a 617 (tube) with a Pinnacle mount. Low but it's a tube.

I want another (window) sight for a 617 and/or 625. Bullseye and Pins season is upon me. The OKO's dot is lower relative to the base, The C-More has a 3mm larger window. Pinshooter has a real nice low mount for the C-More to help offset the height difference.

I need help choosing. What are you opinions?

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Any ...!Any! scope with a rheostat knob that hold the battery will come apart in recoil.

a revolver will let it last longer but it will break I have lots and lots of lost trips to events to prove it.

Get a C-More and get the mount from Mark

But I don't know nothing

But am very good at fixing the Rheostat :blink::angry2:

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Although, through three OKO's on - and thousands of rounds through - my racegun, I've yet to have a problem with the battery covers (they sorted this some time ago)...

I HAVE had two fail at the mounting screw bosses (an OKO mount's "ears" are great for horizontal/shear loading - but there's a glaring design flaw with the thin screw "bosses" that will - not may - will - fail under vertical loads, leaving one or more corners of the scope bouncing up and down (the last one that failed on me was brand-spanking new, right out of a sealed box, and failed at the *single* left rear mounting screw before I was through one magazine of ammo trying to sight the damn thing in...on disassembly, I also discovered that the left front boss had started to crack...). Yes, I mounted them per OKO's instructions and did not over-tighten the mounting screws...

When my third one/second backup fails, as I've come to learn it will - not may - will - that will be the end of OKO's for me. STI has quit dealing with them over warranty repair issues, which should tell you something. If it doesn't, consider that my emails to OKO overseas re. these failures have gone consistently unanswered... :wacko:

Guess this is all a circuitous route to recommending...BUY A C-MORE... ;)

Edited by n2ipsc
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Hi Tom,

C Mores are perhaps not the best dot in the world, and for a Bianchi Gun, where you need extreme accuracy at 50 yards, I have noticed that C mores have more paralax than Gilmore tube dots. Having said that, I have C mores on all of my other open guns, Pin Guns, IPSC, ICORE and even .22's . The reason is, they are almost unbreakable. On pin guns I have destroyed 6 TASCO dots, and I have only been shooting since 2000, and only shot pins for 3 years. I finally swithced up to C Mores, because the shop that I was buying tube dots from, ran out, in one weekend during a pin match. I have never looked back. They have interchangeable diodes, allowing you to use finer dots for different applications, and thicker dots for pins / steel etc etc. I still use a C More for ICORE, which includes a 50 yard x ring stage.......even though recent scores may not reflect it, I can keep them in the X at 50 yards with a C more. Oh, and they are light.........

I have never tried an OKO myself, but I have heard good things.

Good luck with your decision.

Regards

Mark

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Are you guys using the C-More Railway model?

Hi Tom,

C Mores are perhaps not the best dot in the world, and for a Bianchi Gun, where you need extreme accuracy at 50 yards, I have noticed that C mores have more paralax than Gilmore tube dots. Having said that, I have C mores on all of my other open guns, Pin Guns, IPSC, ICORE and even .22's . The reason is, they are almost unbreakable. On pin guns I have destroyed 6 TASCO dots, and I have only been shooting since 2000, and only shot pins for 3 years. I finally swithced up to C Mores, because the shop that I was buying tube dots from, ran out, in one weekend during a pin match. I have never looked back. They have interchangeable diodes, allowing you to use finer dots for different applications, and thicker dots for pins / steel etc etc. I still use a C More for ICORE, which includes a 50 yard x ring stage.......even though recent scores may not reflect it, I can keep them in the X at 50 yards with a C more. Oh, and they are light.........

I have never tried an OKO myself, but I have heard good things.

Good luck with your decision.

Regards

Mark

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Railway model, but on custom mount to get it as low on the gun as possible. This help for the close targets, that I used to slam low shots on.

The Railway is just the weaver attachment added to the bottom of a C-more Slideride (shown in Mark's Photo).

Run with a C-more on Mark's mount and you will be sorted, I only have C-mores on Mark's early mount which is a bit fair bit thicker than the current one and they have served me well for years on all my toys except my Bianchi Guns as Mark mentioned accuracy to 50yards requires a tube sight so you don't get paralex error.

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For me, I like the OKO sight better than the Cmore's, BUT !

the problem of having a source for them is making me look for something else.

Brownells has them but I have a new one ready to go back because the lens has a

dark blue coating on it, okay on a bright sunny day but horrible on a cloudy one.

Never had a battery cap come off but I do only use them on 130 PF steel/ICORE guns.

Someone mentioned that issue was fixed awhile ago though.

Here's a link to a new Red Dot I might try, saw one at the club and the dot was nice and crisp

and the lens was very clear. It's like a DR/Tasco/JP with the light sensing dot brightness but

does mention you can lock the brightness in some how.

http://www.ultradotusa.com/ultradot_dist_blue_009.htm

Anyone have any user info on the Ultradot L/T ??

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