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Another Newbie's open gun with tech questions


1hotrod

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So, I finally made the jump and got an open gun. Can you guys guess who makes it? I wasn't too sure what to get since this was my first one and Brazo's sx was a bit over my budget.

What causes the bullet not to chamber all the way? Is it because the gun is not broken in or my ammo loads I am using? I am reloading 9mm 124 MG jhp, 1.165 oal, with 7.9 of Silhouette. Maybe about 500 rounds thru it, hand full of semi jams including feeding, and chambering problems. The main thing was that the last chambering problem resulted in the slide being slightly stuck open and almost impossible to unjam. I was hitting the slide racker with my best kungfu chop, and it didn't even budge. My hand still hurts...haha, but someone at the range cleared it for me by overhand gripping the slide and hitting the lower grip.

Any suggestions would be great.

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Did you buy this new, or used? If new, first thing I'd do is make a friendly call the the gunsmith. They are always glad to help fix issues and give advice on what's best. There are lots of variables that could cause issues, I'll say that. (Went down the guess what's wrong path not long ago, and it's a royal PITA!)

-Mike

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Had the same problem with mine. Wouldn't return to full battery. I checked many things, see below, but what it was for me was my reloads, not enough crimp. I don't use a case gauge, I use the barrel itself, make sure your reloads drop in and fall out of the chamber without pushing or pulling on them.

Other things:

Ammo pf- make sure your slide is fully cycling as has enough momentum to fully strip and chamber the next round.

Recoil spring - play with the weights to make sure it is strong enough to strip and chamber next round

Extractor - make sure its not riding on the round coming out the mag and creating a bind

Lastly - shot the crap out of it to break it in, everything is still tight. Had a couple M's tell me they don't shoot a new one in a match until it's got anywhere between 3-5k thru it, FWIW.

Mainspring - 17 lbs max, I run a 15lb in mine less drag on slide

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Yup, I bought it brand new from Barsto, and everything feels so tight after 500 rds.

I just setup my Dillon 650 with a Lee FCD, after I noticed 50 rds out of 500 was not dropping into my case gauge. I made 20 dummy rounds to feed test, and 2 of them could not be resized with the Lee FCD. My Lee FCD crimp is setup to .375 and works on most of the bulge from what I can see. I guess that what happens when you buy once fired brass, but I am still going to buy it cuz it's so cheap.

After the gun breaks in, I'll try one thing at a time, so I can be sure it's that problem. I think by then I will have some mag tuning issues...haha

Thanks again

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Ditch the factory crimp die, if you NEED it something earlier in the process is wrong. Get an EGW U-die and a Redding Competition seating die. 500 rounds is plenty to break it in, and I believe your problem is 199% ammo related.

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sounds like your bullets are too long, 1.165 is pretty long for a hollow point, size a brass with no powder or primer and seat a bullet say 1.200 then drop in barrel probably wont go, then seat bullet a little deaper like 1.190, repeat until bullet will drop in and fall out of chamber, that will be your max oal for that bullet. I would then shorten another .020.

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Ditch the factory crimp die, if you NEED it something earlier in the process is wrong. Get an EGW U-die and a Redding Competition seating die. 500 rounds is plenty to break it in, and I believe your problem is 199% ammo related.

+1

I completely agree on ammo related having just had the same problem on a new 40.

I shoot ALL once fired mixed head stamp in my 9 Major OPEN KKM barrel and rarely have a round fail to pass the gauge. I used the same bullet and OAL and the same powder as you do. I do not use an EGW-U die; however, EGW-U are good. I use 100% LEE except I use the Redding Competition seating die.

My OAL is 1.168, so unless your barrel is short chambered you should be able to load out to 1.175 easy.

Check the rounds in the barrel itself until you see what is causing the round to jam in the chamber.

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Ditch the factory crimp die, if you NEED it something earlier in the process is wrong. Get an EGW U-die and a Redding Competition seating die. 500 rounds is plenty to break it in, and I believe your problem is 199% ammo related.

Once again HSMITH is right. Factory crimp won't help with jacketed, and may cause problems. It works best with lead. It will not size as well as U die.

I found the U die is a must have for reloading my 9 major. I use previously enjoyed brass, and before the U die, the reject rate was ridiculous. Still wind up with too much junk brass. There are a lot of guns out there with loose chambers.

The other benefit of the U die is that the case will hold the bullet much tighter. This is really important for Major 9. If you are loading long, there is not a lot of bullet in the case, and if the bullet collapses into the brass on feeding, pressures are apt to reach KaBoom levels.

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Ditch the factory crimp die, if you NEED it something earlier in the process is wrong. Get an EGW U-die and a Redding Competition seating die. 500 rounds is plenty to break it in, and I believe your problem is 199% ammo related.

+1

Howard's got it right. Get the EGW U-die and the problems will almost certainly go away. The Redding Comp seating die will be gravy after the U-die.

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