Leading with Precision 200 SWC's

[trodrig]

I'm shooting 200grain Precision SWC's with 4.2 grains of Clays and WLP primers. I'm getting alot more lead build up with this combo versus the Laser Cast SWC's with clays. Could it be that clays is too fast and is melting the base of the Precisions?

Thanks!

Trodrig

[lcs]

I'm shooting 200grain Precision SWC's with 4.2 grains of Clays and WLP primers. I'm getting alot more lead build up with this combo versus the Laser Cast SWC's with clays. Could it be that clays is too fast and is melting the base of the Precisions?

Thanks!

Trodrig

I shot Precision 40 200GN FP with 4.1 of N310 (heck of lot faster than clays) and did not get any leading.

Is possible you do not have enough bell or to much crimp thus stripping the coating?

I would pull one of my loaded rounds and look at the bullet to ensure the coating is intact.

Hope this helps.

[trodrig]

Thanks for the suggestion. I have pulled a bullet in the past and the coating looked pretty good. Despite the leading it still shoots pretty accurate so I guess I'll just blow it off and keep shooting it. They smoke so much less than plain cast lead which sure is nice!

Trodrig

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: I think you will find it is not actually leading. It is the moly coating in the barrel. I used to worry about it on my Kimber 45 and then one day said I am just going to leave it. It shot just as well with the coating in there so no worries. With a different barrel I have no problems even in a Glock. Hope this helps. Thanks, Eric

[moredes]

Did you slug the barrel first before you bought the bullets? How do you know you've got the right size (to the thousandth) if you didn't slug the barrel? If you're not melting the base of the bullet, then your bullet is too large. It's not the lead that's smoking, it's the lube.

If this is not for reloading bullseye ammo, I wouldn't worry about the leading. I shoot a LOT of lead; almost don't care what the exact size is, because I'm shooting mostly IDPA / IPSC-type regimens. I get so much leading, I can't distinguish the lands from the grooves at the breech end after a day's shooting. It takes me 45 seconds (3/4 of a minute) to clean it out. I use and old .30 caliber brass bore brush and wrap it with a section of Chore Boy kitchen pot scouring pad. It's made out of copper mesh, runs about $3, and can't hurt my Barsto barrel. There's enough mesh to last 2-3 years. Once I've scrubbed out the lead, I continue as usual with the Ed's Red and finish off with FP-10.

Edited September 3, 2007 by moredes

[trodrig]

Thanks folks! You may be right that there's some amount of moly build up as well but alot of it is definitely lead. I scrubbed using the copper chore boy and that got it out. You could see alot of lead flakes coming out as I was scrubbing. I'll just continue to use that method.

I probably should slug the barrel but, with all other things pretty much equal between the cast and moly coated bullets, I was just surprised that the moly's leaded MORE than the plain cast. Cast bullets were 0.452" and molys are 0.4515" according to the folks at Precision.

After I shoot these up I may end up going back to cast and deal with the lube smoke and buildup. They're cheaper and the way the prices of bullets are going I gotta cut costs wherever I can!

Trodrig

[raschnack]

Thanks folks! You may be right that there's some amount of moly build up as well but alot of it is definitely lead. I scrubbed using the copper chore boy and that got it out. You could see alot of lead flakes coming out as I was scrubbing. I'll just continue to use that method.

I probably should slug the barrel but, with all other things pretty much equal between the cast and moly coated bullets, I was just surprised that the moly's leaded MORE than the plain cast. Cast bullets were 0.452" and molys are 0.4515" according to the folks at Precision.

After I shoot these up I may end up going back to cast and deal with the lube smoke and buildup. They're cheaper and the way the prices of bullets are going I gotta cut costs wherever I can!

Trodrig

Ok going to stupid mode.. i have the same problem.. can you explain how you are scrubbing the inside of the barrel with the copper chore boy.?? My XD's are getting filled up with lead/molly from these and i have used every chemical known to main to get it but no luck.

[moredes]

Ok going to stupid mode.. i have the same problem.. can you explain how you are scrubbing the inside of the barrel with the copper chore boy.?? My XD's are getting filled up with lead/molly from these and i have used every chemical known to main to get it but no luck.

Any copper mesh scouring pad is just a mesh screen rolled into a "ball" and secured with a staple or zip-tie -like retaining ring. Remove the ring and unroll the mesh. Then cut a section of the mesh--I use about 2" x 3". I wrap that around a derelict .30 caliber brass borebrush. I insert the cleaning rod from the muzzle end, screw on the gizmo, and stroke away vigorously. (the fit should be very tight) When the barrel is warm to the touch from all the scrubbing I'm usually done, or close to it. "Warm" as in, I can feel that--it's just barely warmer than my hand. You can even scrub in a back-and-forth manner, because the bristles are insulated from the barrel by the copper mesh.

Edited September 20, 2007 by moredes

[billdncn]

Ok going to stupid mode.. i have the same problem.. can you explain how you are scrubbing the inside of the barrel with the copper chore boy.?? My XD's are getting filled up with lead/molly from these and i have used every chemical known to main to get it but no luck.

I've had good luck with a 50/50 mixture of peroxide, and white vinagar. Plug the end of your barrel, and let it soak for about 10-15 min.

[trodrig]

I just unfolded the choreboy, wrapped a section around a worn out bore brush, and went to town. The majority of the bore came pretty clean with just a few passes but there was one area that was particularly stubborn.

Trodrig

[moredes]

50/50 mixture of peroxide, and white vinagar.

Isn't that "corrosive"? There's a reason I don't use that method, but I can't remember why. Won't it also remove blueing? (As I recall, I wanted this method to work so badly, because I've got a blued compensator that needed cleaning, but I can't remember now why I avoided it.)

[billdncn]

50/50 mixture of peroxide, and white vinagar.

Isn't that "corrosive"? There's a reason I don't use that method, but I can't remember why. Won't it also remove blueing? (As I recall, I wanted this method to work so badly, because I've got a blued compensator that needed cleaning, but I can't remember now why I avoided it.)

I don't know if it's corrosive or not. I was told about it by a fellow shooter whom I trust.

I works for me though.

Anyone with info please chime in

[mkmckinley]

I've left that mixture in my kimber barrel (which I'm pretty sure is SS) for about 30 minutes and noticed some orange rust streaks on the patch afterwards. The rust came out easiliy and I didn't notice any pitting or anything but I'm going to use that method only if the rust is bad enough that it's going to keep the solution off the steel.

[ap38]

I use N-320 in 40 and 45 with Masterblaster Bullets and can clean the barrel with an oily patch. If only they worked that well in 38 super....................

[G450PILOT]

I was told of this mixture also. It is an acid. It does a good job of removing the moly. I always wash my barell in a base, baking soda, after using the mixture, then clean and lube.

[HoMiE]

I just shoot some jacketed bullets to get the lead out.