moredes

Chills, PM sent. moredes

Thank you.

Thanks very much, Guys. Here's a dumb one for ya.... do these scopes have any magnification? if so, how much? Thanks again.

I dunno squat about handgun dot scopes--not even the names of manufacturers. (I had to search Midway USA for a list of manufacturers) Would someone post a picture of the scope picture one sees when shooting at a row steel plates or multiple IPSC/IDPA cardboard targets? (I mean, the field of view can't be so small as to restrict me to finding one target at a time, can it?) I don't know anyone who's got a scope, and there are no ranges nearby where I could find a shooter with one. What do ya'll use (brand name, model)? Are "all" red dot scopes suitable for IPSC/IDPA -type shooting, or are some strictly meant for hunting or bullseye? One has to keep both eyes open, yes? hope so; I shoot everything else with both eyes. Thank you.

I prefer a 1911; I haven't found an action as easy to adapt to as the SA 1911's I've shot. The only difference from one to the next is their weight, which isn't noticeable at all from gun to gun during rapid fire. 1911 aftermarket parts are generally cheaper, readily available in all kinds of configurations, and a lot are easy 'kitchen-table' projects. I don't like the long trigger on the SIGs; I can adjust that on a 1911 with a cheap replacement part. Split times are faster for me with a 1911. Lastly, I find the bulkiness of the SIG tougher to hide than a 1911 for CCW.

I'd say that if you ever intend to use this as a self-defense weapon I'd go full-sized. If you can CCW it without printing, I'd go full-sized. If you can handle its' grip size, I'd go full-sized. The only reason I'd go with a compact version is because the full-size prints when I'm CCW'd.

Isn't that "corrosive"? There's a reason I don't use that method, but I can't remember why. Won't it also remove blueing? (As I recall, I wanted this method to work so badly, because I've got a blued compensator that needed cleaning, but I can't remember now why I avoided it.)

How much better can it get?? I'm from the old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school. My 47D's work just fine.

AKJ Concealco NM holsters He's just starting out; some folks have told me that they don't like the photos on his website showing a lack of 'fit and finish', and that his sewing looks like it'd make for a loose holster, but I've got two rigs from him. I like them better because the cant suits me better, the retension is tight (enough for me); I don't see a problem. The price certainly can't be beat ($40 ). I paid $55 shipped before his sale, and I'd still buy again at that price. I've had a LOT of the big name ~$100-150 IWB holsters, and this "starter" is my favorite.

You said 'safest'. If I'm sending to someone on GunBroker, or a complete stranger, and the amount is over ~$300, I'll pay the freight and use a certified check. I never use postal money orders. Big money goes by USPS Registered Mail ("big money" depends a lot on the vibes I get from the seller, but minimally, $500 is 'big money'--the Registered fee--$10, isn't even 10% indemnity). There is no security with postal money orders, and as another reader has said, you could be stuck for 60+ days waiting for their investigation. What will your seller do, wait for the dust to clear if yours gets lost? USPS Money Orders are almost as bad as business money orders (Wal-Mart, KMart, Western Union, Bidpay). There is only belated security with USPS Money Orders. 1)You can't cancel them for 30 (or is it 60) days. I haven't worked at the Post Office in 30 years, so I've forgotten--and I don't much pay attention to them anyway. I have numerous soon-to-be-apparent reasons. Besides not being able to stop immediate payment, 2) you can't track them immediately. 3) Claims for lost or stolen MO will not be resolved for at least 30 days after the waiting period (they must pass a deadline in order to be declared 'officially' missing). One cannot file a claim until that time has passed. 4)If the postal employee (window clerk or delivery carrier) neglects to write the signee's name, ID type, or number down--or can't read it, there's a gray area about whether the deliverer is actually responsible--many "illegible" claims are just that--transposed or 'illegible' (and now, during their investigation, "misread") 5) any recorded ID numbers are used as validation that the clerk performed their duty, but accepted a false ID (which removes the USPS from all fraudulent responsibility--no one says the USPS must be expert in detecting false IDs). Have you heard this one before--"Oops. Looks like we cashed that on a false driver's license... sorry about that." (read that as, "your sale is toast") I'll only cash them at the post office. It is the only place where a moderately-current list is kept of stolen, lost, and forged money order numbers--it is the only place that can check to insure that the paper you hold is absolutely good--and therefore, it's the only place you should cash a postal money order (and you should wait late in the day to make sure the post office you go to has enough cash to cash a large money order [for example, don't expect a small town to have $800 cash in a single teller's drawer by noon--it may not be late enough to accrue enough sales]). If you deposit a fake money order, your bank won't validate the money order immediately--they'll cash it against your balance--that is, it could take 10 to 30 days after acknowledged delivery for the bank to receive confirmation from the Post Office that the money order is legitimate and that the funds are actually good. (there are some sellers out there who've been burned by forged or stolen money orders--when the bank debits the fraud amount against their personal accounts). But this is the least of your worries as a buyer--#1-5 are good enough reasons for me to use cashier's checks. I will not use USPS Money Orders except when the sale is for 'cheaper' items--$50 or less. If a seller insists on a USPS MO, especially on high-dollar items, I walk. What, they don't have a bank account?? If they're in that much of a hurry, they'd be selling locally.

At the range I used to work at, we used a 4' shop broom. Pushed them into a corner and used an 18" dust pan. I think it cleaned the area as fast as it could possibly be done. We tried a similar contraption on the grass, but it was 50/50 when the grass was wet.

I've never read of anyone posting anything bad about the X-die. I love mine. I shoot .308 semi-autos, and that die has saved a lot of time. While it doesn't stop case stretching completely, it seems to "permanently" inhibit it to around .009". For those who may not know, common wisdom says that one can reload M1A-fired brass ~4 times, and then that lot of brass should be discarded because of the likelihood of case separations with further use. I'm on my 7th recycling--that is to say, 8th loading--the inner walls are absolutely fine, and show no signs of cracking or weakness. I check every case with the paper clip trick and visually inspect the outside of the case, too (but the paper clip is very reliable). The last thing I want is a surprise--when I find my first indication, I'll chuck the lot. I use them for silhouette, so 'supreme' accuracy isn't really an issue--on paper they're still holding 1.25 MOA anyway--not great for a Super Match, I know, but they started out at .75MOA. Case stretching has stopped at ~.007 - .009".

Yup, size first, then trim. I only trim once. I use an RCBS X-die, and that has eliminated trimming--then again, I'm not benchresting, I'm shooting semi-autos.

Aren't 110's too light for an M1A? I thought the lightest recommended bullet for that rifle was ~147gr. Best 'junkers' I've found are Jeff Bartlett's--GI Brass

Any copper mesh scouring pad is just a mesh screen rolled into a "ball" and secured with a staple or zip-tie -like retaining ring. Remove the ring and unroll the mesh. Then cut a section of the mesh--I use about 2" x 3". I wrap that around a derelict .30 caliber brass borebrush. I insert the cleaning rod from the muzzle end, screw on the gizmo, and stroke away vigorously. (the fit should be very tight) When the barrel is warm to the touch from all the scrubbing I'm usually done, or close to it. "Warm" as in, I can feel that--it's just barely warmer than my hand. You can even scrub in a back-and-forth manner, because the bristles are insulated from the barrel by the copper mesh.