moredes

Chills, PM sent. moredes

Thank you.

Thanks very much, Guys. Here's a dumb one for ya.... do these scopes have any magnification? if so, how much? Thanks again.

I dunno squat about handgun dot scopes--not even the names of manufacturers. (I had to search Midway USA for a list of manufacturers) Would someone post a picture of the scope picture one sees when shooting at a row steel plates or multiple IPSC/IDPA cardboard targets? (I mean, the field of view can't be so small as to restrict me to finding one target at a time, can it?) I don't know anyone who's got a scope, and there are no ranges nearby where I could find a shooter with one. What do ya'll use (brand name, model)? Are "all" red dot scopes suitable for IPSC/IDPA -type shooting, or are some strictly meant for hunting or bullseye? One has to keep both eyes open, yes? hope so; I shoot everything else with both eyes. Thank you.

I prefer a 1911; I haven't found an action as easy to adapt to as the SA 1911's I've shot. The only difference from one to the next is their weight, which isn't noticeable at all from gun to gun during rapid fire. 1911 aftermarket parts are generally cheaper, readily available in all kinds of configurations, and a lot are easy 'kitchen-table' projects. I don't like the long trigger on the SIGs; I can adjust that on a 1911 with a cheap replacement part. Split times are faster for me with a 1911. Lastly, I find the bulkiness of the SIG tougher to hide than a 1911 for CCW.

I'd say that if you ever intend to use this as a self-defense weapon I'd go full-sized. If you can CCW it without printing, I'd go full-sized. If you can handle its' grip size, I'd go full-sized. The only reason I'd go with a compact version is because the full-size prints when I'm CCW'd.

Isn't that "corrosive"? There's a reason I don't use that method, but I can't remember why. Won't it also remove blueing? (As I recall, I wanted this method to work so badly, because I've got a blued compensator that needed cleaning, but I can't remember now why I avoided it.)

How much better can it get?? I'm from the old "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school. My 47D's work just fine.

AKJ Concealco NM holsters He's just starting out; some folks have told me that they don't like the photos on his website showing a lack of 'fit and finish', and that his sewing looks like it'd make for a loose holster, but I've got two rigs from him. I like them better because the cant suits me better, the retension is tight (enough for me); I don't see a problem. The price certainly can't be beat ($40 ). I paid $55 shipped before his sale, and I'd still buy again at that price. I've had a LOT of the big name ~$100-150 IWB holsters, and this "starter" is my favorite.

You said 'safest'. If I'm sending to someone on GunBroker, or a complete stranger, and the amount is over ~$300, I'll pay the freight and use a certified check. I never use postal money orders. Big money goes by USPS Registered Mail ("big money" depends a lot on the vibes I get from the seller, but minimally, $500 is 'big money'--the Registered fee--$10, isn't even 10% indemnity). There is no security with postal money orders, and as another reader has said, you could be stuck for 60+ days waiting for their investigation. What will your seller do, wait for the dust to clear if yours gets lost? USPS Money Orders are almost as bad as business money orders (Wal-Mart, KMart, Western Union, Bidpay). There is only belated security with USPS Money Orders. 1)You can't cancel them for 30 (or is it 60) days. I haven't worked at the Post Office in 30 years, so I've forgotten--and I don't much pay attention to them anyway. I have numerous soon-to-be-apparent reasons. Besides not being able to stop immediate payment, 2) you can't track them immediately. 3) Claims for lost or stolen MO will not be resolved for at least 30 days after the waiting period (they must pass a deadline in order to be declared 'officially' missing). One cannot file a claim until that time has passed. 4)If the postal employee (window clerk or delivery carrier) neglects to write the signee's name, ID type, or number down--or can't read it, there's a gray area about whether the deliverer is actually responsible--many "illegible" claims are just that--transposed or 'illegible' (and now, during their investigation, "misread") 5) any recorded ID numbers are used as validation that the clerk performed their duty, but accepted a false ID (which removes the USPS from all fraudulent responsibility--no one says the USPS must be expert in detecting false IDs). Have you heard this one before--"Oops. Looks like we cashed that on a false driver's license... sorry about that." (read that as, "your sale is toast") I'll only cash them at the post office. It is the only place where a moderately-current list is kept of stolen, lost, and forged money order numbers--it is the only place that can check to insure that the paper you hold is absolutely good--and therefore, it's the only place you should cash a postal money order (and you should wait late in the day to make sure the post office you go to has enough cash to cash a large money order [for example, don't expect a small town to have $800 cash in a single teller's drawer by noon--it may not be late enough to accrue enough sales]). If you deposit a fake money order, your bank won't validate the money order immediately--they'll cash it against your balance--that is, it could take 10 to 30 days after acknowledged delivery for the bank to receive confirmation from the Post Office that the money order is legitimate and that the funds are actually good. (there are some sellers out there who've been burned by forged or stolen money orders--when the bank debits the fraud amount against their personal accounts). But this is the least of your worries as a buyer--#1-5 are good enough reasons for me to use cashier's checks. I will not use USPS Money Orders except when the sale is for 'cheaper' items--$50 or less. If a seller insists on a USPS MO, especially on high-dollar items, I walk. What, they don't have a bank account?? If they're in that much of a hurry, they'd be selling locally.

At the range I used to work at, we used a 4' shop broom. Pushed them into a corner and used an 18" dust pan. I think it cleaned the area as fast as it could possibly be done. We tried a similar contraption on the grass, but it was 50/50 when the grass was wet.

I've never read of anyone posting anything bad about the X-die. I love mine. I shoot .308 semi-autos, and that die has saved a lot of time. While it doesn't stop case stretching completely, it seems to "permanently" inhibit it to around .009". For those who may not know, common wisdom says that one can reload M1A-fired brass ~4 times, and then that lot of brass should be discarded because of the likelihood of case separations with further use. I'm on my 7th recycling--that is to say, 8th loading--the inner walls are absolutely fine, and show no signs of cracking or weakness. I check every case with the paper clip trick and visually inspect the outside of the case, too (but the paper clip is very reliable). The last thing I want is a surprise--when I find my first indication, I'll chuck the lot. I use them for silhouette, so 'supreme' accuracy isn't really an issue--on paper they're still holding 1.25 MOA anyway--not great for a Super Match, I know, but they started out at .75MOA. Case stretching has stopped at ~.007 - .009".

Yup, size first, then trim. I only trim once. I use an RCBS X-die, and that has eliminated trimming--then again, I'm not benchresting, I'm shooting semi-autos.

Aren't 110's too light for an M1A? I thought the lightest recommended bullet for that rifle was ~147gr. Best 'junkers' I've found are Jeff Bartlett's--GI Brass

Any copper mesh scouring pad is just a mesh screen rolled into a "ball" and secured with a staple or zip-tie -like retaining ring. Remove the ring and unroll the mesh. Then cut a section of the mesh--I use about 2" x 3". I wrap that around a derelict .30 caliber brass borebrush. I insert the cleaning rod from the muzzle end, screw on the gizmo, and stroke away vigorously. (the fit should be very tight) When the barrel is warm to the touch from all the scrubbing I'm usually done, or close to it. "Warm" as in, I can feel that--it's just barely warmer than my hand. You can even scrub in a back-and-forth manner, because the bristles are insulated from the barrel by the copper mesh.

What advantage does a lighter hammer offer? If lighter is better, why not shave the entire hammer except for the "striking post", and then thin it down also so there's only enough strut width to strike the firing pin?

Slow down just a hair during practice; just enough so you can sense 'deliberateness' instead of a 'frenzy'. Then shoot your next match the same way--that is, go to the match preparing yourself with the thought of "shoot like I practice in private". This is no time to think about "setting records" and 'trying with all your might'. Most folks don't do better when they try as hard as they can.

I'd suggest tucking your elbows a bit; they're "out", kinda like 'chicken winging'. If you tuck your elbows so the arms are more vertical, you could extend the arms more if you wanted to. I'm not advocating that--I shoot out of a modified Weaver with both arms bent a lot--I can't see the front sight if I don't pull the gun in enough. Damn geezer eyesight... But tucking the elbows will give you much better strength for no exertion.

I agree; use factory-comparable loads. No lead, all jacketed bullets. You're aren't using a "tea-cup" grip, are you?

Are there any fixed sights that will fit into a Bomar 'dovetail'?

If you wouldn't drink the water as a tourist in that country, don't use their ammo. Or components.

I tried to load it but I haven't had any success. If someone would be willing to post it for me, I can send it to their email moredes15 AT comcast DOT net

I used: a digital fish scale 14" of aluminum tubing (a Dillon primer pickup tube works great--the tube's outside diameter dimensions must be small enough to fit through your smallest spring's inside diameter ) 2 identical washers with holes just big enough to allow the tube to slide through cotter pin smaller in diameter than the diameter of the aluminum tube- 40-50% will do split ring smaller in diameter than the diameter of the aluminum tube--40-50% will do drill bit that's large enough to drill a hole the diameter of the cotter pin and split ring Measure the thickness of one washer and record it. Drill two pairs of holes through the tube, one set at either end of the tube, across the tube at a 90 degree angle, about 1/4" from the ends. Insert the cotter pin through one set of holes. Slide a washer onto the tube from the long end until it meets, or rests against the cotter pin. For Govt Model springs (5" barrel), measure on the tube from the washer towards the open end and mark a spot 1.625" + the thickness of one washer. For Commander Model springs (4 1/4" barrel), measure on the tube from the washer towards the open end and mark a spot 1.125" + the thickness of one washer. For Officer Model springs (3 1/2" barrel),measure on the tube from the washer towards the open end and mark a spot .700" + the thickness of one washer. (I cut a notch at each measurement with a file and painted each one a different color) Now slide your spring onto the tube. Slide your second washer onto the tube, and insert your split ring through the other set of holes at the end of the tube. The cotter pin and split ring should trap your spring between two washers. Attach your fishing scale to the split ring. Hold the scale in one hand, and the closest washer to it in the other. Pull them apart until the washer compresses your spring (towards the cotter pin side) just far enough to allow the washer past the appropriate notch. Read the scale. Done. To remove the spring, pull the cotter pin side; it's more convenient. (In truth, I used Delrin plugs instead of washers; there's more to grasp. I found the plugs at Lowe's)

Now there's a man after my own heart! 'Choose?? who wears shoes?? I shoot in slaps. Last time I was seen in shoes was 2004, at my friend's wedding. Mag always hits the ground between my feet.... what's the problem?? "cleats on carpet"... ain't that like playin' ball on Astroturf? Now... ask me how it feels to drop an 8lb sledge hammer on the big toe....

Did you slug the barrel first before you bought the bullets? How do you know you've got the right size (to the thousandth) if you didn't slug the barrel? If you're not melting the base of the bullet, then your bullet is too large. It's not the lead that's smoking, it's the lube. If this is not for reloading bullseye ammo, I wouldn't worry about the leading. I shoot a LOT of lead; almost don't care what the exact size is, because I'm shooting mostly IDPA / IPSC-type regimens. I get so much leading, I can't distinguish the lands from the grooves at the breech end after a day's shooting. It takes me 45 seconds (3/4 of a minute) to clean it out. I use and old .30 caliber brass bore brush and wrap it with a section of Chore Boy kitchen pot scouring pad. It's made out of copper mesh, runs about $3, and can't hurt my Barsto barrel. There's enough mesh to last 2-3 years. Once I've scrubbed out the lead, I continue as usual with the Ed's Red and finish off with FP-10.