Glock spring set

[hayes45]

This post may belong in the spring thread but since it is for a Glock I will try it here. I am shoooting a G22 in limited. I replaced the connector with a Ghost Rocket 3.5# and performed more a less a .25 trigger job. The trigger pull is definately smoother and reset is noticabley better. I was wandering if it was worth or should I say would I notice a difference if I replaced the trigger spring, firing pin spring with a Wolfe competition spring pack or one similiar. If anyone has any expierience with these springs I would like to hear about it. I know my G22 will never be a Brazos, Dawson Tuned Edge or the likes but would like it to be as smooth as possible until I do get the Edge which is not in the immediate future.

Thanks, Justin

[Joe D]

Replace the Ghost with a Lone Wolf connector. The reduced power striker spring will lower the pull weight as well.

On a side note, the CCF stainless steel frame will turn a Glock into a gun that is just as good as the over priced STI Edge at a fraction of the price.

Edited August 13, 2007 by Joe D

[Sandormen]

I have a ghost rocket connector in my G34. Furthermore, I found that I only needed/wanted two springs. An extra power trigger-spring, and a reduced power striker-spring.

Buy several of them, for backup. -Cheap, and nice to have.

[Radical Precision Designs]

Replace the Ghost (WHY ??? *1)with a Lone Wolf connector. The reduced power striker spring will lower the pull weight as well.

On a side note, the CCF stainless steel frame will turn a Glock into a gun that is just as good as (*2) the over priced STI Edge at a fraction of the price.

*1- Both will give you 3.5 lb. plus the "Rocket " will provide a trigger travel stop which the LW won't. The LW is excellent otherwise, but (IMHO) not necessarily better.

*2- Comparing a Glock (even with the CCF frame) to an STI Edge is like "apples and oranges", as both are great guns but innately different ... and after the right work-up both are capable of winning the match.

[Joe D]

If you set the trigger bar up correctly you don't need an over travel stop. There is no need for an extra power return spring either. My latest trigger bar design has given me a sub one pound trigger. I use the stock return spring. I use Glock, Scherer and LWD connectors. Will not use a Ghost.

The point I was making is the CCF frame moves the Glock to a more equal footing with the STI guns. The Glock/CCF shoots flatter than a STI.

[racerba]

If you set the trigger bar up correctly you don't need an over travel stop. There is no need for an extra power return spring either. My latest trigger bar design has given me a sub one pound trigger. I use the stock return spring. I use Glock, Scherer and LWD connectors. Will not use a Ghost.

The point I was making is the CCF frame moves the Glock to a more equal footing with the STI guns. The Glock/CCF shoots flatter than a STI.

Well, now you're talking about replacing the trigger bar with a custom one. That's different than using the Ghost Rocket with the stock trigger bar. Basically, you've built in a trigger stop into your trigger bar.

[Joe D]

No stop on the trigger bar. The LWD IMO has a better feel than the Ghost.

[Radical Precision Designs]

This post may belong in the spring thread but since it is for a Glock I will try it here. I am shoooting a G22 in limited. I replaced the connector with a Ghost Rocket 3.5# and performed more a less a .25 trigger job. The trigger pull is definately smoother and reset is noticabley better. I was wandering if it was worth or should I say would I notice a difference if I replaced the trigger spring, firing pin spring with a Wolfe competition spring pack or one similiar. If anyone has any expierience with these springs I would like to hear about it. I know my G22 will never be a Brazos, Dawson Tuned Edge or the likes but would like it to be as smooth as possible until I do get the Edge which is not in the immediate future.

Thanks, Justin

Justin-

As you have seen by some of the posts above, that, opinions will vary. The market is full of aftermarket "thing-a-magics" for the Glock pistols. Some of them meant as an easy install improvement, and some as a more elaborate upgrade (new gun really) as the CCF frames, etc. Usually this means that someone spent some time doing some R&D for a product that should/could help you to some degree with the performance of your Glock. YMMV !!!

As you mentioned, you "already" spent some money and time installing that Ghost "rockett connector, and seem to be happy with its performance ... now you want to know about opinions and experiences regarding "spring experiences" from forum members, after having done the "$0.25 trigger job" (probably from the thread in these forums?) . I have used the 6 lb. trigger springs in addition to the 4 lb. Wolff striker springs, and they seem to do a good job in some pistols while requiring the use of "softer" primers in others. Some people/shooters recommend staying with the regular "5 lb. trigger spring", citing that they break less often. Again, YMMV>

As for saving money for a future purchase of an Edge (STI) type pistol in the future: absolutely!!!! But keep on enjoying your Glock too, as you will have twice the dose of fun.

[racerba]

If you set the trigger bar up correctly you don't need an over travel stop.

No stop on the trigger bar. The LWD IMO has a better feel than the Ghost.

Yes there is, if you "set the trigger bar up correctly." You may not have something that is an actual tab that is a "trigger stop," but if there is no over travel, then you built it into the trigger bar. If there is over travel, then I would say, IMHO, that the trigger stop on the Rocket is an advantage over the "better" feel of the LWD, especially at sub 1# pull.

Back to the original question.

I used to use the Wolf reduced striker spring to make the trigger pull lighter. With that spring, the life is approximately one+ season. You don't know when it will fail. Unfortunately for me, it failed during a match. Fortunately, it was a local match. Now, you could replace this spring at the start of every season, but you still don't know if it will last 'til the end of the season. I put the stock striker spring back in and even though the pull is slightly heavier, I don't have to worry about it failing. I came to the conclusion that you don't need a sub 2# pull in this sport. As a matter of fact, you don't need a sub 5# pull either. So now, the only thing I have that is not stock is the Rocket.

Edited August 13, 2007 by racerba

[vrmn1]

Here is how I did it, put the Glock up and spend a year shooting this sport with a revolver with a 7# trigger. Make B in revolver then grab the Glock again and any 3.5# connector will feel like you have died and gone to heaven. Your trigger right now is probably as good as in needs to be. You may want to try a lighter recoil spring and striker spring but other than that and good sights you have a gun that you can take a long way. Now about the only other thing I can say is get a Dillon load up about 50000 rounds a get to the range.

Welcome to the sport and the forum.

[Joe D]

Racer, I am glad that you know how I set up my trigger bars. Where can I learn to read minds? I have only done a couple of trigger jobs. Guess I got lucky. Glocks are new to me.

[big_kahuna]

This post may belong in the spring thread but since it is for a Glock I will try it here. I am shoooting a G22 in limited. I replaced the connector with a Ghost Rocket 3.5# and performed more a less a .25 trigger job. The trigger pull is definately smoother and reset is noticabley better. I was wandering if it was worth or should I say would I notice a difference if I replaced the trigger spring, firing pin spring with a Wolfe competition spring pack or one similiar. If anyone has any expierience with these springs I would like to hear about it. I know my G22 will never be a Brazos, Dawson Tuned Edge or the likes but would like it to be as smooth as possible until I do get the Edge which is not in the immediate future.

Thanks, Justin

Justin,

What primers are you using?

If you are using Federals you have more latitude in your spring weights. Winchester primers are harder to ignite, so your options are more limited.

I initially set up my G22 and G35 to run Federal primers, and had 100% reliability the Sotelo kit. Trigger pulls were nice and smooth at just under 2#. I broke a few springs and replaced them: Wolff reduced-power striker springs and Glockmeister increased-power trigger springs. The trigger was still nice. Those were the happy days when I could always get Federal primers. If you go this route get some spare springs.

Federals got hard to find and I switched to Winchester. I started experiencing light strikes about 3-5% of the time... tried lots of different combinations to restore reliability but no joy... and ended up replacing my OEM Glock striker springs and trigger springs. Trigger pull increased some (not sure how much) but was still tolerable. Now 100% reliable again. For me, I stopped caring about having a sub-2# trigger... I prefer having my guns completely reliable and I can run hard primers without worrying.

IMHO all the tinkering I have done with my glocks was like trying to polish a turd. Again IMHO, I should have spent that time and money on more practice ammo, dryfire and range time. Sights, 25cent trigger job, grip tape, DONE. Practice seems to help... so I guess I'd recommend practicing more and tinkering less. Best of luck to you.

[Jman]

IMHO all the tinkering I have done with my glocks was like trying to polish a turd. Again IMHO, I should have spent that time and money on more practice ammo, dryfire and range time. Sights, 25cent trigger job, grip tape, DONE. Practice seems to help... so I guess I'd recommend practicing more and tinkering less. Best of luck to you.

Though I never decribed my glock as a "turd" I know what you mean. And, your right, less is best.

[kamann]

There has been some very excellent advice here. What I did was just buy a few different springs and start seeing what felt better, and more imporantly what worked better. Every Glock is different like was mentioned. I have a 17 that will get light strikes 1 out of 10 with reduced power striker spring, and a 34 that will light off everything with the same spring.

IMHO, what it comes down to is that you have to buy some different springs and see for your self what works and what doesn't work in your gun with your loads.

[00bullitt]

I've always said that a Glock is the only gun that comes out of the box with no pride in ownership. I've got 7 and love them and trust my life to a few.

The no pride in ownership thing was a joke before some of you get your panties in a wad.

One thing that will help light strikes with the LW FP spring is to get a lightened steel striker or lighten the factory one.

I set my guns up with an overtravel screw in the ejector block,polish everthing and true it up on a stone,run the 4 lb. FP spring,the Glockmeister XP trigger spring,drill a new hole above the factory hole where the trigger spring attaches on the trigger bar(There are alternate methodsd to attach the spring without the need to drill thanks to JoeD ),polish and round both ends of the FP safety plunger,clip a coil off the plunger spring,lighten my striker,use a Lone Wolf 3.5 connector or a modified factory Glock 3.5 and a little medium slide glide at the connector to trigger bar point. This yields a 2-2.25 pound reliable and smooth as silk Glock trigger

That pretty much sums up the basics of what I do to my trigger for my competition guns. It is totally reliable and lights off any primers. I have 2 G34's with over 100k rounds and a G17 with close to 40k rounds. All with the same trigger setup and they have been reliable as hell. I have never had a light strike with those guns after I lightened the strikers about 50k rounds or so ago.

[racerba]

Racer, I am glad that you know how I set up my trigger bars. Where can I learn to read minds? I have only done a couple of trigger jobs. Guess I got lucky. Glocks are new to me.

Let's see...I said:

Yes there is, if you "set the trigger bar up correctly."

Notice the word "IF." And you said earlier:

"my latest trigger bar design" eluding that you made a custom trigger bar.

And when I mentioned that you had a "custom trigger bar" you did not deny that either.

I also said IF there was not any over travel - which you did not say that there was.

Sooooo......without reading mind, I concluded that there must be some sort of an over-travel device built into the trigger bar.

NOW - if you had said that there IS overtravel, then this discussion would be mute.

If there is over travel, then please refer to my earlier comment.

Well, is there over travel or not?

Edited August 14, 2007 by racerba

[Joe D]

What is hard to understand about "No stop on the trigger bar"? There are no added stops. Let me try this one more time - if you know how to do a proper Glock trigger job you don't have to add a stop. Let's assume the striker releases in the last half of the rearward movement of the trigger bar. The trigger can be set up to stop at the beginning, middle or end of this travel.

Got it?

[racerba]

The trigger can be set up to stop at the beginning, middle or end of this travel.

Read what you just wrote. As I said before "the stop is built in." It may not be an extra tab but the trigger bar has a stop built in. In this case, it's set to release at the point just prior to where the trigger can physically no longer go backwards.

Since you didn't really answer my question directly, I'm concluding that there is NO over travel, by your answer. Therefore, there is a form of a trigger stop.

Whatever...I think it's symantics that we are arguing about anyway. I call it a stop, you don't...no big deal.

Edited to add drinking icon.

Edited August 14, 2007 by racerba

[00bullitt]

Yep......its symantics. Perception and interpretation are your own realities. No need bickering about how he/she said what anymore. You both get it....now carry on before this thread gets locked.

BTW........on this side of the mason dixon line.....JoeD is well known for doing a superb trigger job on a G-Lock. He knows what he is talking about. Just not everyone understands how he talks.

[LeeIndy]

i put a wolf comp pack in my g17 and it makes a huge difference.

[Joe D]

Just once more - there is no built in stop. I do not add a tab, screw or pin. The way you reposition the plastic trigger bar finger pad, connector and shape the "nose" of the trigger bar determines where the trigger bar will stop after it releases the striker. To reference a line from one of my favorite movies "I think what we have here is a failure to communicate". Must be my Southern accent.

[Aircooled6racer]

Joe: I just did my G34 trigger the way you suggest and it is very light. Not your 1 pound special but around 2-3 pound and crisp. Thank you Joe for all your help. I have not talked to him in person just via e-mail so he can't laugh at my Canadian accent EH ;-) Thanks, Eric

[Orpanaut]

Just once more - there is no built in stop. I do not add a tab, screw or pin. The way you reposition the plastic trigger bar finger pad, connector and shape the "nose" of the trigger bar determines where the trigger bar will stop after it releases the striker. To reference a line from one of my favorite movies "I think what we have here is a failure to communicate". Must be my Southern accent.

How do you "repositiion the plastic trigger bar finger pad"? I assume this means the actual trigger part of the trigger bar, right? Do you drill out the original pin and re-drill a new hole in a different location to change the leverage?

[Joe D]

Yes and before you ask I do not give out the information as to how and where. I have given out enough hints on various forums as to how I do this. There are those that charge a lot of money to do this. IMO they charge too much for what they do.

Search this forum and others to find your answers. Buy some trigger bars and crank up that drill press.